Suggestions for layout of Game/Billiards Room?

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Pool table placement/room layout help

EDIT 1:
I posted this some time ago with a drawing that was not in scale and the goal of a 9ft table.
Until I find the right 9ft vintage Brunswick I'm going with an 8ft Olhausen that I pick up this week.
It's an Olhausen 8ft Gibraltar
I ordered a set of aramith tournament balls and I'm debating on keeping the camel felt for now or throwing blue or green simonis on it.

But my real dilemma is still placement and now that I'm going 8ft rather than 9ft I have more flexibility (or do I?).
Per Olhausen's site it has a 44x88" playing area, so that's what I put into this scale drawing I did using Google sketchup.

The room is 16'3" wide and from the far wall to edge of a bar is 17'7"
I've read many say that measuring 5ft from the playing edge to the wall is more than adequate, but i'm picky and don't want to feel cramped when playing. I put 5ft lines around the table in the drawing, not really sure if this is enough. Is 5ft enough?

Would you recommend placing the table as I have it, so I'd have extra space on the lower, longer end of the room - potentially for air hockey, shuffle board or foosball or maybe a couch/stereo....
OR would you center the table up in the room.... which is where the pool table light is from previous home owner
OR would you move it closer to the lower wall, getting it further from the bar?

PoolTablePlacement01.png



Here's the room... you can see the light placement in the middle.
2014-12-08%2010.43.10_sm.jpg

2014-12-08%2010.44.14.jpg

2014-12-08%2010.46.34.jpg


The Olhausen Gibraltar I'm picking up this week
IMG_3636.JPG
 
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Looks like a perfect spot for a game room/man cave. Hell, you even have the whole kitchen setup! Keep us posted with updated pictures.

I would keep it the way they had it. Table on that side of the room, bar and tv/ping pong table over on this side.
 
That's looks like a great room.

IMO 14'x18' isn't large enough for a 9' table. I have an oversized-8' table and an 18'x18' room and only have room for a 5" back stroke on a rail shot with a 57" cue.

From your diagram, It looks like you can position a 9' table with its length running along the same dimension as your 35' measurement. Then the extra space along the 18' measurement can be used for player chairs.
 
9BallJim said:
That's looks like a great room.

IMO 14'x18' isn't large enough for a 9' table. I have an oversized-8' table and an 18'x18' room and only have room for a 5" back stroke on a rail shot with a 57" cue.

From your diagram, It looks like you can position a 9' table with its length running along the same dimension as your 35' measurement. Then the extra space along the 18' measurement can be used for player chairs.
Click to expand...


I agree. If you offset the table toward the bottom of the diagram you should be able to get away from the corner of the bar.

Or you could remove the bar and have room for two tables end-to-end or a ten footer.

Whatever you decide, don't put the light right away. Get your table in and play on it for a few days first.


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longhair said:
I agree. If you offset the table toward the bottom of the diagram you should be able to get away from the corner of the bar.

Or you could remove the bar and have room for two tables end-to-end or a ten footer.

Whatever you decide, don't put the light right away. Get your table in and play on it for a few days first.


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Click to expand...
Playing with other people money.... I'd cut the bar, too. There's plenty of bar leftover!

Cut the bar, and you have easily the room for 9' table any urniture. As it is now, you could squeeze an over-sized 8 and have no real issues, but I think you won't be happy with the 9' on the long dimension.

Freddie <~~~ willing to spend your money
 
Wow, I figured this room was massive even for a 9ft table. I double checked and had the size of the table too small in the graphic. I've now updated it to reflect the size of a 9' Brunswick Gold Crown (113x65) and added an A, B and C label for different orientations.

I hate the thought of cutting that bar up, hopefully the dimensions are in my favor and it's actually over a little and definitely hope it's not less. I can't check until next week.

Note the bar is pretty high so that does help get it out of the way a little.

I was under the impression you can't really move a pool table once it's setup and level, is that not the case? I'll assume it will be a 3 piece 1" slate 9ft table going in.
 
The guy that puts it in can move it for you. He'll want to be paid of course


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I think somewhere between B and C will be perfect. Chairs along the walls if you have a ring game in the basement or something.
 
Updated room dimensions and photos. Hoping that the better pictures of the bar height and measurements will help.
Also the room was slightly narrower than I thought - I thought it was 18' but it's only 16'3" wide and the long dimension to the edge of the bar is 17'7" rather than 18' as well.

I could go to an 8ft if it's going to be a better overall experience but I've wanted a 9ft table forever.

I could nip the edge of the bar off on an angle I suppose.

Again, feedback is GREATLY APPRECIATED!
 
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You need the stick drawn on the pool table. Put the tip on the corner of the 50x100 dimenision, and then draw the stick in an arc with a radius of 61". (58" stick, + 3" backstroke). Do this on each of the 4 corners. Then, move the table (with the sticks) around on the drawing until it fits the best. I personally think this is easier with hand drawn graph paper with a table that is cut out with scissors and moved around than computer models. I've done it both ways.

If the bar is the difference between an 8' and 9' table, 1000% cut the bar! If you don't have carpentry skills, find a buddy who does. you can use a router to cut the formica cleanly on the top. Then a sawzaw to cut the base. Put in new trim pieces, repaint, and you are all set.
 
The other thing you can do since it sounds like you will be in the home in 1 week is tape up some cardboard boxes so they are 50x100 and are one unit that all moves together. Lay the template on the ground, and move it around. Then, lay a bunch of pool sticks or tape measures on each corner to find what is in the way and what is not.

When you find your spot, put a border on the ground with tape. Have the installers install the table centered in that tape. Below is how I did mine.

IMG_3245.jpg

IMG_3256.jpg
 
Minimum you need is 15 feet wide by 18 for a 9 footer never hitting a wall. I built a house and my dumbass builder decided 14'8 was close enough it was not
 
your bar is "spectator" height - good luck finding 34" stools, and at a good price. go smack your architect/designer.

otherwise, your room is gorgeous!
 
The Kiss said:
Minimum you need is 15 feet wide by 18 for a 9 footer never hitting a wall. I built a house and my dumbass builder decided 14'8 was close enough it was not
Click to expand...

You should have discounted the final payment and said it was "close enough" :)

iusedtoberich said:
...tape up some cardboard boxes so they are 50x100 and are one unit that all moves together. Lay the template on the ground, and move it around. Then, lay a bunch of pool sticks or tape measures on each corner to find what is in the way and what is not.
When you find your spot, put a border on the ground with tape. Have the installers install the table centered in that tape. Below is how I did mine.
Click to expand...

I love that mock up idea! I think I'm going to do that. I'll also play with my crude drawing (done in microsoft paint) to get the 50x100" playing area closer to actual and draw a cue on there for this post. Also I'll post pictures as I work this out to help future people in the same predicament.

PINKLADY said:
your bar is "spectator" height - good luck finding 34" stools, and at a good price. go smack your architect/designer. otherwise, your room is gorgeous!
Click to expand...

I think you just saved me a ton of time and hassle by pointing that out, now I know what to look for - 34" stools or taller ones and a new blade for my reciprocating saw :) And thank you for the kind words. I just learned the previous owner had a naughty dog so all of the carpet in the entire house is coming out. :mad:
 
Looking at your latest pictures, if they are to true scale, I'd center the table exactly in the 16'-3" direction. Do not favor one side, so you will have the most possible room on each side. On the long direction, I'd cut the counter at a right angle (not a 45), 3 or 4 inches away from the sink. Then, I'd center the table between that cut line on the counter, and the far wall.

I'd put the rack end of the table on the right hand wall. This is because you have all the room in the world to break and kick your feet up from the other end of the table because you are in an open space.

You can also use the far right end wall to mount a permanent camera at the corner of the wall and ceiling.

Good luck.
 
Lighting

As a side note, I have an antique lighting fixture with 4 green glass cone snapped shades. I just replaced the 60 watt regular bulbs with 60 watt LED that draw like 13 watt conventional bulbs. The difference is amazing. Just a FYI on the LED, it really makes a difference.
 
mock up

Hi,
There's nothing like mocking up to give you more information about your layout.
It sometimes reveals problems that you wouldn't see otherwise.
I'd vote for a pair of horses and some appliance box cardboard.
No surprises.
As for lighting... if you can manage the cost and the design, a Diamond style light is superior to any of those "classic" pool table fixtures.

Good luck,
Dave
 
Dave said:
Hi,
As for lighting... if you can manage the cost and the design, a Diamond style light is superior to any of those "classic" pool table fixtures.
Good luck,
Dave
Click to expand...

You can say that again!!! By far the best pool money I have spent was on my Brunswick pool table light. The lighting is so perfect over the table compared to the other stuff I tried, its a nice little bonus that the light matches my GC also. Our table is in our basement, when I shoot I turn off all of the lights in the basement except the light over the table.
P.S. That's an absolutely gorgeous pool room you will have there!!! When I tire of my Turkish Prison motif I can only hope to have something half as nice.
 
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If you decide you have to cut the bar, consider removing it and using a high top table you can move around.


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