New Year-New Shop Toys-Going to Sell Hightower
- Thread starter CrossBone Cue
- Start date
Usually there are 2 tapered pins that align the headstock to the bedway.Diagonal across and on a skewed angle. If it has been reground etc, after getting it all aligned, run the tapered reamer through to clean up all of the tapered hole.Then put in the new dowels. Places like Carr and MSC sell the pins and matching reamers. Make sure you have the bed leveled and that there is no twist etc when you go to re dowel it. Patience is your friend when aligning the head up.
Neil
Neil
At the Clausing forum ( Yahoo ) they are very adamant in not removing that head stock .That spindle hole is bored after the bed was ground, I believe.
So, it's spindle was trued with the matching bed .
Great job Steve. That takes a lot of heart and some insanity to do.
I guess they'd freak out then if they knew I had the head tore apart.
Steve
Steve
Well,
Its back together, leveled and running. Have the back plate still out, it hasn't been delivered. The ice storm still has UPS afraid of the mountain I live on. So hopefully next week I can wrap it up. Variable speed works, no leaking. Everything seems to be working great. Very excited to use it.
Probably the last pictures I post,
Thank for following
Steve
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Its back together, leveled and running. Have the back plate still out, it hasn't been delivered. The ice storm still has UPS afraid of the mountain I live on. So hopefully next week I can wrap it up. Variable speed works, no leaking. Everything seems to be working great. Very excited to use it.
Probably the last pictures I post,
Thank for following
Steve
I am all done with it, it is setting in its new home. Bolted to the floor. Got it leveled and dialed in.
I will let you know where it sets now,
I have a reading of .0004 run out 1 inch from the chuck with my dial indicator.
I cut a piece that was 12 inches, held it between centers and dialed in the head stock and the last adjustments were on the tail stock.
The 12 inches piece after the cut pass, my reading with the caliper of the piece next to the tail stock was .6756, 1 inch away from the chuck the caliper read .6760
Not 100%, but for this being my first time doing a total redo and the fact you are not suppose to break it down like I did according to many, I am happy. Not sure to leave it be, or should I keep working to get it closer.
Thank you all for watching this project.
Steve
I will let you know where it sets now,
I have a reading of .0004 run out 1 inch from the chuck with my dial indicator.
I cut a piece that was 12 inches, held it between centers and dialed in the head stock and the last adjustments were on the tail stock.
The 12 inches piece after the cut pass, my reading with the caliper of the piece next to the tail stock was .6756, 1 inch away from the chuck the caliper read .6760
Not 100%, but for this being my first time doing a total redo and the fact you are not suppose to break it down like I did according to many, I am happy. Not sure to leave it be, or should I keep working to get it closer.
Thank you all for watching this project.
Steve
You did a great job on the restoration of your lathe, it looks really good.
Steve,
Your lathe came out beautifully!
WRT ". . .should I keep working to get it closer?", I would put your 10's indicator away where it's hard to get to.
I look at it this way: If you extrapolate your .0004" out to 30" from 12" I get an even .001" and if you continue to use that 10's indicator, it will look like a lot and you'll continue to beat yourself up trying to get it to 0! But if you only use your regular indicator, that .0004" is barely going to be detectable and the total runout will be only 1 tick on the dial, so you will be happy:grin:
The runout on your laminate trimmer (if that is what you use to cut with) is likely .001" or more.
We have all these great measuring instruments and they make us forget the medium we are working in - wood - not titanium parts for rocket engines and/or medical imaging equipment. At least they do for me.
Great job!!:thumbup:
Gary