Buffing Wheels

pescadoman said:
Just to see how it would work, I sanded fresh finish(souther polyurethanes) with 600 and went straight to the wheels with Menzerna 16 and 175....
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How long did the buffing take ? I know you are a pro so, I will need to quadruple what ever time it took you. That really does look nice considering it was 600 grit scratches. I can't see any 600 line marks anywhere in your picture.
Thanks for the sharing Randy.
Looks like I will be getting some buffing wheels and paste now.
Neil
 
I would love to see how you buff randy
I have a caswell buffer that I have never even turned on yet, I just polish on the lathe.
I picked up some menzerna polishes today and it really shined up a cue I just finished, previously polished with the system 5 from CC
I'd like to use my nice pedestal buffer but I have no clue how to use it properly :(
 
cuejo said:
I would love to see how you buff randy
I have a caswell buffer that I have never even turned on yet, I just polish on the lathe.
I picked up some menzerna polishes today and it really shined up a cue I just finished, previously polished with the system 5 from CC
I'd like to use my nice pedestal buffer but I have no clue how to use it properly :(
Click to expand...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92YWLyqwjYI
That might help.
 
cuejo said:
That's a good start,
I bought liquid polish, would I load some on the cue then hit the wheel?
I'll be practicing for sure, looks a heck of a lot faster than on a lathe
Click to expand...

As luck would have it, I accidentally found the place(I hadn't saved it and couldn't find it before) where I bought my compounds.

http://www.lmii.com/products/finishing/finishes/menzerna-dry-polishing-compound

The 16 and the 175

I wouldn't use liquid on the wheels of a pedestal buffer and I wouldn't use dry compound on one of these for paint on a car.

Whenever buffing ANYTHING, always work with wheel rotating AWAY from edges. If you ever use one of the polishers below, make sure you drape the power cord over your shoulder and behind your back. This keeps it from being wound up. Surprisingly, I never did that.
 

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pescadoman said:
As luck would have it, I accidentally found the place(I hadn't saved it and couldn't find it before) where I bought my compounds.

http://www.lmii.com/products/finishing/finishes/menzerna-dry-polishing-compound

The 16 and the 175

I wouldn't use liquid on the wheels of a pedestal buffer and I wouldn't use dry compound on one of these for paint on a car.

Whenever buffing ANYTHING, always work with wheel rotating AWAY from edges. If you ever use one of the polishers below, make sure you drape the power cord over your shoulder and behind your back. This keeps it from being wound up. Surprisingly, I never did that.
Click to expand...


Thanks randy,
I will order the dry stuff :)
I detail my own care and am so dumb that I didn't even think to use my polisher on cues
I use a cyclo on the cars and it's awesome, first rule is over the shoulder power cord holder :D
 
whammo57 said:
wet sand lengthwise 600, 1000, 1500, 2000......... polish with Plastx then to the wheels........... I don't see the wet look on that cue

Kim
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You are correct. In the sun I can see some scratches(actually looks kind of crappy in this picture), but remember this was 600 and the 16 is designed for 800 and higher. It was a test to see how much sandpaper and time I could save. I doubt more than 1000 will be needed and I can save the 130.00 in polish I have for ferrules.
 

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cuejo said:
Thanks randy,
I will order the dry stuff :)
I detail my own care and am so dumb that I didn't even think to use my polisher on cues
I use a cyclo on the cars and it's awesome, first rule is over the shoulder power cord holder :D
Click to expand...

You're gonna need some aluminum covers for your lathe .
I can only imagine all that liquid flying all over the place. :D
If you wet sand to 2500 to 3000 to 5000, you can apply really fine compounds with a terry cloth. Then polish with terry cloth with the lathe spinning at 800 RPM or more.
No mess.
And by wet sanding lengthwise , you get no swirls.
 
conetip said:
How long did the buffing take ? I know you are a pro so, I will need to quadruple what ever time it took you. That really does look nice considering it was 600 grit scratches. I can't see any 600 line marks anywhere in your picture.
Thanks for the sharing Randy.
Looks like I will be getting some buffing wheels and paste now.
Neil
Click to expand...

I'm not a pro Neil, but I did work at a body shop for awhile. Getting the hang of it was really pretty easy, after cutting through a cue once. To be fair, it didn't have much finish on it....
 
I have a Shop Fox buffer From Grizzly. It turns about 1200 rpm with the tread mill DC motor

12" X 1 1/4" 16PLY DOMET FLANNEL wheels............(discontinued at Grizzly)
H0813 Menzerna YELLOW POLISHING COMPOUND,,,,,,..(Grizzly)
T25002 Menzerna TAN-VERY FINE HI GLOSS COMPOUND.....(Grizzly)..

I wet sand 600, 1000, 1500, 2000 all lengthwise not spinning........ then Plastx polishing compound. If you spin and sand you will never get the sanding scratches out.

Then the wheels. One wheel has H0813 on it the other has. T25002

When I am ready to polish with the buffer, I load the wheel with H0183, Touch the block of compound on the wheel while it;s spinning for about 5 seconds.

With the top if the wheel spinning towards you.....Buff 1/2 the cue on the bottom quarter of the wheel. Turning the cue 1/8 turn at a time..... stoike down.... count 1,2,3...then stroke back up 1,2,3.......turn 1/8 turn and continue.....Don't let it heat the cue.... when you are done with that 1/2 of the cue........ reload the wheel with compound and do the other half....

Now load the other wheel with T25002 and do the same procedure for the brilliant shine.....

Don't mix compounds on the wheels.........


Everybody does it differently depending on the finish they use and what works best for them........ this works great for me and has taken my finish to the next level........

Kim
 
Randy, are you using an automotive finish for your cues? If so, how long do you wait after final spraying before using the buffer?
 
Same question for you, Kim, how long after final spray before using the buffer?. It seems like you guys have some longtime experience with buffing using the dry compounds.
 
whammo57 said:
I have a Shop Fox buffer From Grizzly. It turns about 1200 rpm with the tread mill DC motor

12" X 1 1/4" 16PLY DOMET FLANNEL wheels............(discontinued at Grizzly)
H0813 Menzerna YELLOW POLISHING COMPOUND,,,,,,..(Grizzly)
T25002 Menzerna TAN-VERY FINE HI GLOSS COMPOUND.....(Grizzly)..

I wet sand 600, 1000, 1500, 2000 all lengthwise not spinning........ then Plastx polishing compound. If you spin and sand you will never get the sanding scratches out.

Kim
Click to expand...

I spin wet sand with a 1000 grit paper on a foam block.
That way , I'm sanding it round.
Sand lengthwise after that .
Scratches will be gone when I'm done.
Spin sanding with 800 grit is trouble.
I've never needed to use less than 1000 grit really since I started using SATA mini-jet .
 
rhinobywilhite said:
Same question for you, Kim, how long after final spray before using the buffer?. It seems like you guys have some longtime experience with buffing using the dry compounds.
Click to expand...

I use a water based urethane applied with a foam brush. I wait a week at 70 deg or 5 days at 80 deg.

Kim
 
JoeyInCali said:
I spin wet sand with a 1000 grit paper on a foam block.
That way , I'm sanding it round.
Sand lengthwise after that .
Scratches will be gone when I'm done.
Spin sanding with 800 grit is trouble.
I've never needed to use less than 1000 grit really since I started using SATA mini-jet .
Click to expand...

Because I don't spray..... my sand ready finish is a little rougher than your sprayed finish so I have to be a little more aggressive with the beginning sanding........

Kim
 
Hi,

Using product with a flow enhancer will eliminate any orange peel or variation in flinish surface where starting with 1000 can be done with any jam gun .08 mm.

Rick
 
JoeyInCali said:
I spin wet sand with a 1000 grit paper on a foam block.
That way , I'm sanding it round.
Sand lengthwise after that .
Scratches will be gone when I'm done.
Spin sanding with 800 grit is trouble.
I've never needed to use less than 1000 grit really since I started using SATA mini-jet .
Click to expand...

I looked up some contoured foam blocks and saw a few options but wasn't sure what would be good. Can I assume your block is contoured? If so care to share a link?
 
MVPCues said:
I looked up some contoured foam blocks and saw a few options but wasn't sure what would be good. Can I assume your block is contoured? If so care to share a link?
Click to expand...

I'm sure he's talking about using these to wet sand.

Crap...that isn't what I was talking about. 3M makes some flexible rubber rectangular pads that one would put a tri folded piece of sand paper around
 

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