9 ball break

Mcdermott1981

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a question in regards to the 9 ball break. I am a solid player. If I played APA, I would play at the highest level of 9 ball or 8 ball. The main problem I've had for years is my 9 ball break. I can run out with the best of them, but cannot consistently make a ball on the break. I have read various books and articles in regards to the break and have tried all of them.

I read an article yesterday that suggested putting the 1 ball on the spot, try breaking from the side, and try to hit the one ball with a stop shot. It said the 1 ball should get close to going in the corner pocket after contact. This would help with not only the contact point on the 1 ball put also cue ball position after the break.

I was just curious if there were other good drills or techniques that have worked for you on the 9 ball break.
 
I have a question in regards to the 9 ball break. I am a solid player. If I played APA, I would play at the highest level of 9 ball or 8 ball. The main problem I've had for years is my 9 ball break. I can run out with the best of them, but cannot consistently make a ball on the break. I have read various books and articles in regards to the break and have tried all of them.

I read an article yesterday that suggested putting the 1 ball on the spot, try breaking from the side, and try to hit the one ball with a stop shot. It said the 1 ball should get close to going in the corner pocket after contact. This would help with not only the contact point on the 1 ball put also cue ball position after the break.

I was just curious if there were other good drills or techniques that have worked for you on the 9 ball break.

Buy Joe Tuckers Racking Secrets, and practice what he teaches. Should help you immensely. :thumbup:
 
Racking Secrets

Buy Joe Tuckers Racking Secrets, and practice what he teaches. Should help you immensely. :thumbup:

Agreed. This DVD is amazing in helping to understand the rack and breaking techniques.

CarlB
 
I have a question in regards to the 9 ball break. I am a solid player. If I played APA, I would play at the highest level of 9 ball or 8 ball. The main problem I've had for years is my 9 ball break. I can run out with the best of them, but cannot consistently make a ball on the break. I have read various books and articles in regards to the break and have tried all of them.

I read an article yesterday that suggested putting the 1 ball on the spot, try breaking from the side, and try to hit the one ball with a stop shot. It said the 1 ball should get close to going in the corner pocket after contact. This would help with not only the contact point on the 1 ball put also cue ball position after the break.

I was just curious if there were other good drills or techniques that have worked for you on the 9 ball break.
Sorry if I"m confused. You're a solid player. You've read and tried all of of what you've read. But YESTERDAY, you read an article that:

a. suggested putting the 1-ball on the spot. As opposed to ...
b. break from the side
c. try to hit the one-ball with a stop shot

Something's not adding up.

But, hey, that's just me, and I haven't had my morning cup.
 
Sorry if I"m confused. You're a solid player. You've read and tried all of of what you've read. But YESTERDAY, you read an article that:

a. suggested putting the 1-ball on the spot. As opposed to ...
b. break from the side
c. try to hit the one-ball with a stop shot

Something's not adding up.

But, hey, that's just me, and I haven't had my morning cup.

I was thinking the same thing, a bit of an odd post
 
I read an article yesterday that suggested putting the 1 ball on the spot, try breaking from the side, and try to hit the one ball with a stop shot.


1 ball on the SPOT???
How dare they suggest such a thing.

Breaking from the side????
Oh no....somehow they discovered EVERYONE's secret.

The hitting one ball with a stop is just to increase its possibility of stopping near the center.

With all due respect you don't sound like a top APA rated person.
But that's a sideline from your concern.

Sounds like the article you read is fine.
You gotta go out there and fine tune your stroke too.
 
I didn't think what I was trying to explain would be so difficult to comprehend. To clarify, I have not tried this technique, but it seems like it would work. Listed below is the exact drill VERBATIM


I have a drill that will help you with this. A bonus for this drill is that it will help you determine your maximum break speed.

Place the 1-ball on the foot spot. Do not rack a full set of balls — just the 1-ball. Place your cue ball in position to break on the head string, one diamond from the side rail. Now, get into “break” position, and shoot a stop shot on the 1-ball. Shoot it as hard as you can while shooting a successful stop shot.

The 1-ball should come very close to banking into the corner pocket.

Keep trying this shot, shooting harder if you are successful, and shooting softer if you are having trouble controlling the cue ball and making it stop. When you have found the maximum speed you can use while still successfully stopping the ball, you have found your maximum break speed!

Now, put together a rack of balls behind that 1-ball, and do the same thing: a stop shot on the 1-ball. You should get a nice scatter on the balls, hopefully pocketing a ball or two, and get shape on the 1-ball for your next shot.
 
Joe Tucker's racking secrets is what you need, but if you're not willing to spend the money then here's a shortcut:

The ball you're supposed to make is called the "wing ball", which is the ball furthest to the left if you're breaking from the left side.
If you break from the right, it's the ball all the way to the right.

That ball is supposed to fly straight into the corner, and if you want to make it RELIABLY,
you need to make the rack dead nuts tight. Try to make one with zero gaps anywhere, not even a gap the thickness of a credit card. Then put the cue ball about 1.5 ball widths off the side rail, and hit a firm, square stop shot on the head ball.

If you tend to screw up and struggle to hit square, it's better to screw up by hitting a little to the left by accident
(if breaking from the left) than "back cutting" the head ball and hitting it on the right.
The wing ball can still go if you cut it on this side, but cutting on the other side tends to ruin it.

Can the wing ball go in WITH gaps? Yes, absolutely.
In fact certain gaps may even increase your chances.
But you'll need to watch the tucker video to get into that kind of detail.

If you have a magic rack, or can buy/borrow one, you'll see how easily this ball goes.
With a little practice you'll make it ten times in a row. It works at a variety of speeds.
For me, the most reliable speed is a firm stop shot. My guess is, 14-15mph.
With the magic rack, I can also get it to go with a very slow break, like just rolling the ball at 5mph can work.
I've seen corey do this without the magic rack, but I personally can't get it work unless I hit firmer.
But you definitely don't need a strong 20+mph break, and if you use one, you're only making life harder on yourself.

As for the 1 ball, my break tends to pop it in the side. I hit 14-15 mph and aim a tip below center, as if I wanted to draw back just a bit,
like 1 foot. It's actually kind of nice... if I make the wing ball, the 1 tends not to go.
If I screw up and miss the wing ball, the 1 goes in the side. So either way I'm shooting again.

If you reach a point where you can make the wing ball reliably, you'll want to AVOID making the 1, and control where it goes.
One trick to doing this is to add a little left spin to the cue ball (assuming you break from the left).
This causes the 1 to hit just below the side pocket, then widen off that rail and bounce off the head rail to give a shot
like the one diagrammed. (Credit to Tony Marcino for showing me this long ago).

edit: I'm dumb and drew the diagram backwards. Here's a corrected diagram. the 1 flies towards
the opposite side, not the same side as you break from.

0wzbDtg.jpg


The hard part about this break is hitting firm with sidespin and still hitting the head ball squarely despite deflection etc.
I also find that at my favorite speed, sometimes the 1 doesn't travel far enough and it's sort of parked in the middle of the head rail.

Good luck. If you still can't get it, some ball sets are not perfectly round anymore from years of abuse
and you probably aren't able to close all the gaps. Before giving up, definitely get a magic rack or accu-rack.
 
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I didn't think what I was trying to explain would be so difficult to comprehend. To clarify, I have not tried this technique, but it seems like it would work. Listed below is the exact drill VERBATIM


I have a drill that will help you with this. A bonus for this drill is that it will help you determine your maximum break speed.

Place the 1-ball on the foot spot. Do not rack a full set of balls — just the 1-ball. Place your cue ball in position to break on the head string, one diamond from the side rail. Now, get into “break” position, and shoot a stop shot on the 1-ball. Shoot it as hard as you can while shooting a successful stop shot.

The 1-ball should come very close to banking into the corner pocket.

Keep trying this shot, shooting harder if you are successful, and shooting softer if you are having trouble controlling the cue ball and making it stop. When you have found the maximum speed you can use while still successfully stopping the ball, you have found your maximum break speed!

Now, put together a rack of balls behind that 1-ball, and do the same thing: a stop shot on the 1-ball. You should get a nice scatter on the balls, hopefully pocketing a ball or two, and get shape on the 1-ball for your next shot.

Ah... just the one ball.... now I get what you're asking.

Warning: hitting at just the one-ball shooting "as hard as you can" is going to get a window or a dog broken.
 
CreeDo, I think my main two problems are not making sure the 1 ball is frozen and not knowing exactly where to strike the 1 ball.

I almost always break from the left side. If that is the case, Where is the best place to aim at the 1 ball?
 
One thing to remember is:

We only pocket a ball 56% of the time we break.

randyg
 
CreeDo, I think my main two problems are not making sure the 1 ball is frozen and not knowing exactly where to strike the 1 ball.

I almost always break from the left side. If that is the case, Where is the best place to aim at the 1 ball?

I know a few players who don't get good results from their break... Not compared to their post-break playing ability, anyway. They think they need to practice it, hit it harder, etc... Truth is, what they really need to do is practice their racking, not their breaking.

It's hard to explain how important a tight rack really is.
 
I always had a crappy break until I bought Joe Tucker's "Racking Secrets". Now my 9 ball break is very good. The book and and/or the DVD is one of the best books to own. It is as close to the "Silver Bullet" you can get...IMO. Johnnyt
 
CreeDo, I think my main two problems are not making sure the 1 ball is frozen and not knowing exactly where to strike the 1 ball.

I almost always break from the left side. If that is the case, Where is the best place to aim at the 1 ball?

I wanted to mention, I screwed up the diagram and redrew it.
You'd probably have figured it out anyway, but the 1 moves the other way.

Getting the balls to freeze is a bear because all tables have that divot in the foot spot. So you gotta roll the rack around until the 1 ball sits happily in the divot, and then freeze everything else to that 1 ball. If you try to freeze them any other way, the 1 tends to roll off because of the divot.

I also find I have to kind of "palm" the rack from above with one hand to kind of hold everything together while I adjust balls. If you just push from the bottom to make things tight, you may find that the 2 balls behind the 1 seem to get pushed apart, so there's a gap in the middle of them. So what works best for me is to push those balls together while pushing upwards from the bottom.

(PS: all of that hassle goes away with a magic rack)

Where to break from: don't think it's a super exact spot, it isn't... basically you got an area about 7 inches wide, starting from the left cushion, where the wing ball break should work. Put the cue ball anywhere in that area. If you try to put it too close to the cushion, you'll find the cushion itself interferes with your ability to hit the middle or bottom of the 1 ball. So that's why you should start about 1.5 ball widths off center. You should never have to jack up the cue to hit the middle or bottom of the cue ball. Move the cue ball a bit further from the rail if it's interfering.

Then, just hit the 1 right in the fact from your current starting point. Don't cut it to the left, don't cut it to the right, just do a dead stop shot. Hitting a true stop shot at ~17 mph is not easy unless you've practiced it... just watch if your cue ball tends to fly left or right. If it moves to the right, that's definitely no good. If it moves a bit to the left, the wing ball might still go.

In fact, if you can't seem to get the wing ball to go, and it's always hitting too high above the corner, try cutting the 1 intentionally. Hit it a little bit on the left side, so that the cue ball flies to the left long rail. This helps make the wing ball move lower. You'll see the guys breaking in the mosconi cup do this. But you shouldn't have to, if you rack properly and just hit with a firm stop shot.
 
Your right!

I know a few players who don't get good results from their break... Not compared to their post-break playing ability, anyway. They think they need to practice it, hit it harder, etc... Truth is, what they really need to do is practice their racking, not their breaking.

It's hard to explain how important a tight rack really is.

Johnny Archer had the best break in the business for many years, Busty break was just as good too, but there were and are many players who play their speed that don't break good. If you can get a solid and consistent technique down that allows you to hit the rack flush and solid you can make the adjustments to get some balls down consistently.

Randy G makes a good point that the break only results in a ball being pocketed 56%-59% of the time, but that's still a big percentage if it happens at the right time in a match or if after that percentage your break is good enough that the balls have a nice lay out.
 
There's a certain 4 ball pattern I look to be all frozen, if so I can make wing ball about 80-90% of the time, maybe someone knows it
 
Randy G makes a good point that the break only results in a ball being pocketed 56%-59% of the time, but that's still a big percentage if it happens at the right time

No disrespect to Randy but I think that number is outdated...
I believe that's from the time before magic racks, delta-13, and Joe Tucker's videos.
Or maybe he's just talking about average players and not pros.

Now that everyone knows the trick, dry breaks in professional 9 ball are much less common.

I googled for some AtLarge break stats from recent events, and picking two at random:

WPA World 9-ball: A ball was made on the break 88% of the time (300 out of 340).
Big Tyme Classic: A ball was made on the break 81% of the time (126 out of 155).

These aren't counting breaks where they made a ball and scratched, or 'illegal breaks'
(some events require a certain number of balls to go uptable).
These two events include both magic racks and wooden racks,
and show the break works reliably on both 9-footers and barboxes.
 
9-Ball Break

Here is pic from my book...

It is a Break Shot from the Box.

The lead ball will head toward the side pocket (it can also go in the side pocket), bounce off the cushion & head toward the corner pocket you standing by.

Lots of times, this approach gives up a shot at the 1-Ball in the corner, if you made the wing ball.
 

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