Who made this cue?

[cueenvy]

Vintage 4 point 4 veneer cue with "Titlist" purple and green veneers. Rosewood butt. It is not a Brunswick cue. Bumper has a narrow slit in the end of it to access the screw inside. Bumper has a slotted wood screw with a metal sort of washer below it inside the rounded bumper. Cue is 1940s era imo. I bought it with other 4 point house cues from the same era with a capital "C"stamped in between the middle of the points.

Could it be a Katz cue? Who else was making 4 point 4 veneer cues with purple and green Titlist type veneers? I've never heard of any other companies other than possible Katz.

I'm converting it into a bumperless Hoppe with brown phenolic butt cap and joint rings. It's going to have a Cortland type linen wrap. Should be pretty sweet. Veneers are bright right under the surface.

 

[Chopdoc]

I'll confine myself to the forearm. Looks like possible Victor points and veneers.

Sharp top and bottom, right?


Could be wrong, just ask my wife.




Other than that it looks like an unfinished conversion.





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[cueenvy]

Victor...have to check that out. I'm gonna start turning this down tonight. The veneers are going to look bright when done. Going to push the wrap forward some to leave a long buttsleeve. Like this Sauer cue.

 

[Chopdoc]

It will be nice to see how those veneers come out. Exiting really. Could be real treasure under there.

A lot of potential there I think. I like the long buttsleeve idea.

Hoppe ring?


Victor struck me first.
Other possibilities are Katz, Rieper, and Briggs if it's not a Brunswick. Can be hard to tell. Even if there was an original mark it may have already been removed since work was already started.

I would look very carfelly under good light for the remaining impressions from any stampings that might have been sanded/turned off.




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[cueenvy]

I sanded a portion of the veneers and they are bright purple and green. They were dingy brown from age.

There's an Elforyn Hoppe Ring 3/8" long and brown linen buttcap will be 5/8 long. I'll put a short 3/4" wide push in bumper.

I like the look of brown phenolic against a white joint.

I have a black palm red veneer double butterfly that's next.. going to make a segmented handle with curly red oak and black palm in the middle section . Will have black joint collar and buttcap and brass ring accents. Gonna be hideous or a knockout!

 

[Jim Baxter]

Brunswick 26 1/2 . Becouse weight stamp between points , dates it to 1915 to 1926 . Points and veneers same as Titlist . At least this is what I been told . I don't remember that far back . I have 2 just like it in near perfect condition being converted .

 

[cueenvy]

It's not a 26 1/2. I wish my photo of the bumper waa clearer. I've seen a lot of Brunswick cues and this doesn't fit the bill. This cue is from the 40s or 50s. Some kind of Titlist copy. I searched for Victor cues and found only a couple examples.

It's turned down beautifully. Only has a little sealer on it.

 

[Chopdoc]

I'm still thinking Victor.

Could be wrong.

Darn nice cue. :thumbup:




Are the bottom points razor sharp? Still haven't seen a picture of those.


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[ideologist]

Are the bottom points razor sharp? Still haven't seen a picture of those.
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They are pictured, quite sharp

 

[Chopdoc]

I mean the very bottom.

Can't see that in the pics.

 

[ideologist]

I mean the very bottom.

Can't see that in the pics.

Check the last picture in the first post

 

[HawaiianEye]

The blank looks like an old Titlist of some sort to me.

 

[Chopdoc]

I did. And they look sharp. But it is more in the background and fuzzy. I want to be very sure of what I am seeing.

What some people call sharp isn't what I mean. That's why I asked. I mean razor sharp.

If I get a chance later I'll post pics of my Victor points close up. I'll have to take some, I don't have any on file. I am behind in documenting my cues.

The bottom points are as sharp as the top.


Again, I could be wrong. I just want to be thorough.


A brunswick 26 1/2 for example is "sharp-ish" on the bottom pints. The points end bluntly at about the width of a single veneer. They are not razor sharp.

Victor points are razor sharp at the bottom. I believe Rieper are as well. There are others. It can be difficult. Veneer colors help too. As do other features. Nothing beats a makers mark though, that's why I said to check carefully fopr any stamping evidence before taking any more material off. Even the vague outline of a long lost decal can help.


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[cueenvy]

Razor sharp return points. I would have liked to keep it wrapless but it was too narrow at the joint.

Here it is on my Porper Model A lathe which I added taper bars, a rear bed extension, powerfeed, dust collection,Taig bed and carriage. This lathe is the nutz. I like building lathes more than cues.

 

[Chopdoc]

That cue is going to be sweet!

OK-

Sharp at the bottom.

Maybe Victor. Until further evidence I'll say that. But it's still just a maybe. A lot know more and better than I around here. But I enjoy taking a stab at it.


I haven't even looked at my Victor in two years. We'll see when I haul it out after work tonight.


As for the lathe, you are killing me. I am suffering lathe envy. I just looked at one over the weekend. A Cue Smith. OK- so no taper bar but I will be able to fix most anything and do some basic sneakies or conversions. Probably going to pull the trigger...then of course all is lost and I will go down the rabbit hole never to return. I know...you have to be crazy. Maybe I am crazy enough. At least it's not heroin or crack I'm addicted to.





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[cueenvy]

That cue is going to be sweet!

OK-

Sharp at the bottom.

Maybe Victor. Until further evidence I'll say that. But it's still just a maybe. A lot know more and better than I around here. But I enjoy taking a stab at it.


I haven't even looked at my Victor in two years. We'll see when I haul it out after work tonight.


As for the lathe, you are killing me. I am suffering lathe envy. I just looked at one over the weekend. A Cue Smith. OK- so no taper bar but I will be able to fix most anything and do some basic sneakies or conversions. Probably going to pull the trigger...then of course all is lost and I will go down the rabbit hole never to return. I know...you have to be crazy. Maybe I am crazy enough. At least it's not heroin or crack I'm addicted to.





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A lot can be done even on a 4 foot big bore headstock lathe. You can make a taper bar easy enough or just offset the tailstock to taper cue butts. I've had several lathes. The one I have noe I got off ebay for 700 delivered...added maybe 600 to it...it does it all better than the Porper model B or Cuesmith Deluxe imo and I've owned both. Lathes are east to sell if you get bored of them.

I have another 6 or so conversions lined up. I learn a little every cue I build. I converted this 1930s double butterfly on a 4 foot lathe. Used a precut shaft from Cue Components, just needed final sanding. It has a 3/8-10 pin and plays great.