What sort of thing are you looking for?
How Parris Cues Are Made
- Thread starter 9Ballr
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What sort of thing are you looking for?
I actually did shoot quite a lot pool with snooker cue when I was still a kid . Did not know anything about deflection back then. I try shoot in the near future some shots with my friend snooker cue(maybe even video some short test..).
I personally don´t like Parris because their conical taper is so weird(I think it is customizable). I like more maple one piece snooker cue(they have normally close to pro taper kinda taper..). I play snooker with my Falcon+Predator Z2 with Elk Master. I did buy that Z2 just for snooker around 2 years ago. Only weakness for it is when you want make really low draw shot. That is more difficult because shaft diameter is slightly too big for going so low.
I really like that combo for snooker. It have less deflection with snooker balls than my solid bear(black ring) shaft(+same Falcon butt) when I play pool.
I made century break second time I played it and made several after that. With snooker cue I made only 2 centuries(9 total).
P.s I am not cue nerd even I know quite a lot of that subject. That is because I play Pool, Snooker, Finnish Kaisa and sometimes Russian Pyramid. Every game have different cues and I try always use cue that get similar deflection. Actually my pool (with regular shaft) have more deflection than any other cue in other games.
I gonna upgrade my 20 year old poolcue soon(ish) to get little less deflection. I don´t still like LD shafts on pool. But in other games I think they are essential because pocketing is more challenge!
Note entirely sure.
I have looked at some older cues, that's probably what I will go for. Possibly a wood screw cue. I want to take some time to get to know them better. There are older makers that may be more desirable but I just don't know them well enough to know what to look for.
It's also possible I would go for a one piece.
If you have any input on the matter I am all ears.
I have two snooker cues, one American made, and one Canadian. I would like a UK made example. Also, both of mine are maple, so I would like a more traditional Ash cue.
I may also want a Canadian Dufferin made snooker cue. The Canadian one I have is a Brunswick of Canada cue from the early 1950's.
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I played for a year in the UK. Mostly snooker, and mostly with my Joss pool cue. I tried snooker cues, but played better with my Joss, probably just because the snooker cues were so different.
The larger tip did present some slight challenges for draw shots. But I seem to remember not trying to put much of any kind of spin on the cue ball most of the time. I was playing center ball a lot, more than in pool.
You mention Russian Pyramid. I am also interested in a Pyramid cue. I am curious how one will play pool. also just want one for my collection.
And....I am definitely a cue nerd.
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I played for a year in the UK. Mostly snooker, and mostly with my Joss pool cue. I tried snooker cues, but played better with my Joss, probably just because the snooker cues were so different.
The larger tip did present some slight challenges for draw shots. But I seem to remember not trying to put much of any kind of spin on the cue ball most of the time. I was playing center ball a lot, more than in pool.
You mention Russian Pyramid. I am also interested in a Pyramid cue. I am curious how one will play pool. also just want one for my collection.
And....I am definitely a cue nerd.
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Best Pyramid cues are so beautiful masterpieces:smile:. My newest pool student is reigning Finnish Pyramid Champion and his cue plays great and looks great. I try get photo from it. Btw. Those cues normally have a lot thinner butt than pool cues
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Best Pyramid cues are so beautiful masterpieces:smile:. My newest pool student is reigning Finnish Pyramid Champion and his cue plays great and looks great. I try get photo from it. Btw. Those cues normally have a lot thinner butt than pool cues
From what I understand they are intentionally whippy and springy. Long and thin.
I would enjoy seeing a picture. Typically they are made of numerous butterfly splices, sometimes quite complex.
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The cue cases are wild. JB needs to crack that market. Earl and SVB would need to get an extended van to get around if they played with 1 pc cues
I think it's possible that these serve a purpose. When you are feathering (taking warm-up strokes) with a chevroned ash cue, your eyes see a lot of motion from the cue in peripheral vision. In comparison the motion of a clear, white maple shaft is far less visible.
Good afternoon, gentlemen.
Here are a few of my snooker cues. The lower one has an oaken shaft which is rather unusual. I also have an old pearwood cue, a timber similar to maple but slightly darker and offering a smooth action no matter how sticky one's hands.
Here are a few of my snooker cues. The lower one has an oaken shaft which is rather unusual. I also have an old pearwood cue, a timber similar to maple but slightly darker and offering a smooth action no matter how sticky one's hands.
It certainly is something that a player is capable of perceiving while playing; but I am not convinced that it actually contributes anything useful.
If it did, where good ash cues are commonplace, one would expect all the top pros to use ash rather than maple, and for them all to orientate the cue so that the chevrons are uppermost.
But in the UK where ash is the norm, a minority of pros do use maple and also some (again a small minority) who use an ash cue but do not play with it with the chevrons visible. In both cases it is a minority but why should there be any exceptions to the rule?
One explanation might be that a small percentage of players start off with a sub-optimal set up, and get so used to it that changing to something 'better' is too great a barrier.
But I have a counter example: someone I know used to play with an ash cue and about 2 months before he turned pro, changed to maple. So he would have got used to ash and if the relative perception of motionless resulting from a maple shaft caused any issues, especially in the heat of battle, he would have swapped back to his old cue very quickly.
Rather a small sample I will admit, but it makes me suspect that there is no advantage to the chevrons in practice.
I don't notice the chevrons at all when playing, focusing on something like that would surely be detrimental to one's game.
I've heard many a professional declare their preference for evenly spaced arrows along the shaft, more from an aesthetic viewpoint than any performance-enhancing effect. Personally, as such features are presumably determined by rate of timber growth, I would contend they might affect how a cue plays - fewer chevrons have always seemed to produce a sweeter hit for me.
I've heard many a professional declare their preference for evenly spaced arrows along the shaft, more from an aesthetic viewpoint than any performance-enhancing effect. Personally, as such features are presumably determined by rate of timber growth, I would contend they might affect how a cue plays - fewer chevrons have always seemed to produce a sweeter hit for me.
I think that when you are first learning to make the cue ball go in an intended direction by having the cue stick move in a closely related direction that your brain is combining a lot of inputs most of which you never consciously focus on.
I have no evidence that that the chevrons are useful in learning how to aim. I do know that they register in my vision (as compared to a clear, maple shaft) when I am feathering.
Interesting article Buddy. If I remember, I have seen Perridon Cues and a different version of Paris Cues, but not with Ronnie O in it.
Even when hand sanding a shaft on a lathe, Free Hand, one has to be very careful.
I couldn't imagine doing one with a Hand Plane. Or, and having it straight afterward.
Obviously not the first job that a person would be doing upon employment with Paris Cues.
I love Old Fashioned Craftsmanship like this, specially when it comes to wood working.
Have to remember, that before the advent of Power Tools, people had the ability to make some amazing works of art with their hands.
And of course, people had been using Treadle Lathes and Shaving Horses long before that.
Joey from Cali had linked to a Filipino Cue Maker, can't remember his name at the moment, that turned his Cues on a modified Wood Lathe.
So, here we have some tradition. They could be using a host of different machinery to
manufacture their cues, even if it were just a simple wood lathe, but instead, use a Hand Plane.
When they say, "Hand Made", one cannot get any closer than this.
Buy a Paris Cue and you to, can play like Ronnie O. I Wish. I love Snooker, or rather, love watching it being played as I am lucky if I can make 4 balls in a row.
Even when hand sanding a shaft on a lathe, Free Hand, one has to be very careful.
I couldn't imagine doing one with a Hand Plane. Or, and having it straight afterward.
Obviously not the first job that a person would be doing upon employment with Paris Cues.
I love Old Fashioned Craftsmanship like this, specially when it comes to wood working.
Have to remember, that before the advent of Power Tools, people had the ability to make some amazing works of art with their hands.
And of course, people had been using Treadle Lathes and Shaving Horses long before that.
Joey from Cali had linked to a Filipino Cue Maker, can't remember his name at the moment, that turned his Cues on a modified Wood Lathe.
So, here we have some tradition. They could be using a host of different machinery to
manufacture their cues, even if it were just a simple wood lathe, but instead, use a Hand Plane.
When they say, "Hand Made", one cannot get any closer than this.
Buy a Paris Cue and you to, can play like Ronnie O. I Wish. I love Snooker, or rather, love watching it being played as I am lucky if I can make 4 balls in a row.
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Is it possible that it is a subconscious thing?
In other words, not your conscious focus but the mind registers it?
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It occurs to me that with an ash cue the advantage of having the chevrons uppermost is that this is usually the least worst option. The grain on the side of an ash cue is not actually that straight - it is wood after all - and may well give the illusion that the cue is not perfectly straight.
Dmitry, or Jim Baxter's Friend might be a good source for a Pyramid cue.
It isn't like Dmitry doesn't live in Siberia or hasn't any experience with the game.
Jim brought 3 of Dmitry's cues to Vegas one year. I played with all 3 of them.
I would have loved to have bought one, but all of them played so great, that it would have taken more than an afternoon to have chosen the one that I wanted.
Even one with matching Splices in the shaft. Seriously solid playing cues.
I think Pyramid would be a great game to learn. Problem is, finding a table in North America.
I have a problem finding a 9 footer and a Snooker table in town.
It isn't like Dmitry doesn't live in Siberia or hasn't any experience with the game.
Jim brought 3 of Dmitry's cues to Vegas one year. I played with all 3 of them.
I would have loved to have bought one, but all of them played so great, that it would have taken more than an afternoon to have chosen the one that I wanted.
Even one with matching Splices in the shaft. Seriously solid playing cues.
I think Pyramid would be a great game to learn. Problem is, finding a table in North America.
I have a problem finding a 9 footer and a Snooker table in town.
:lol: Next time you are in Saskatoon we'll go visit George at Pacific. He has a set of Russian Billiards balls :thumbup: .... no table with corresponding pockets though ... using them on his 9' tables was a blast ... you have to hit the pocket dead center
Damn those are big balls Dave
Good afternoon, gentlemen.
Here are a few of my snooker cues. The lower one has an oaken shaft which is rather unusual. I also have an old pearwood cue, a timber similar to maple but slightly darker and offering a smooth action no matter how sticky one's hands.
An oaken cue has won 15 world snooker championships.....Joe Davis.
I've hit with pear wood, I like it....have owned a cherry wood cue also, which the older
French players have used a lot....the trouble with wood from fruit trees is they tend to have a lot of resin pockets.....lotta wastage.