Possible to replace carpet w/out disassembling table?

iusedtoberich

iusedtoberich

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Here is my situation:

My table is in my apt. The apt complex is upgrading the current carpet with "fake" hardwood flooring. I would like to have this upgrade to my apartment. Problem is, I have a GC on the carpet.

Is it possible to put the table on big 4 sets of wheels or something like that? So I can leave it assembled, they can do half the room, then wheel the table onto the completed half, to do the other half?

I'm not super worried about losing level or popping a seam. It would not be the end of the world. I'm more worried about coordinating everything so the floor installers can do the job.

Should I just keep the carpet?

Any other ideas?
 
my table is an entry level Olhausen, with 4 legs. given the design and given the chintziness, i'd never lift any one given leg more than 1/4, maybe 1/2 inch... so the best i could ever do is slider discs, implemented one at a time.

if i were to get some kind of rolling platform, i'd need to lift it all at once (if it were possible, i guess a significant strapping system and a beaucoup hydraulic lift... like something that could do a massive 12 cylinder engine).

if i got that far, then i'd have to figure out how i get that thing rolled from the unfinished side of the floor to the finished side. if on rollers, could you negotiate getting over the edge of the most recently laid piece?

if not rollers, if it were suspended in air and the base of the fixture offset from the table footprint (again, the engine/transmission lift comes to mind), could it be hung over onto the finished side while still staying on the unfinished side, and then lowered?

the other (hazy) idea i had was to somehow get that table elevated where it is, with many small supports. then, as they worked their way towards and through the footprint of the table, supports could be removed and replaced to allow enough space for the next section of floor.

i don't know your frame well enough to know if you can tilt it enough to go leg by leg, or not. maybe you can make some kind of fixture that would work with a single, or a tandem of those hydraulic rolling sleds to move palettes in a warehouse. and get the vertical lift, and maybe even the horizontal move.

but i can only imagine how heavy those slate pieces are. mine are (iirc) 15/16" and i guess each piece is around 220 lbs. and i just about died getting them from the floor onto the frame.

(just came to my mind).... maybe build a pseudo-frame. and when the floor comes to the edge of the table footprint, slide the slates from the table to the pseudo-frame. remove the table frame. finish the floor. replace table frame. slide slate back to table frame. all of this somehow accounting for the changes in height.

maybe these thoughts spurn new ideas... good luck. (i think the carpet looks comfy in your vids)
 
I just looked at my GCII. If it was me I would put a 2" x 6" under the table on the frame between the head skirt and the leg. With the 2" x 6" horizontal cut to the correct length it would rest on the 2 long north/south timber frame pieces, the east/west timber frame piece and also the 2 pieces of angle iron that support the leg. Then I would use a piece of 4" x 4" cut to needed length on top of a floor jack so you can lift onto a pair of dollies. Then do same thing on other end, I did not look but you will probably need to remove ball box. I would imagine you could rent the dollies. FWIW your slates weigh 225# each on a 9' GC.
 
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iusedtoberich said:
Here is my situation:

My table is in my apt. The apt complex is upgrading the current carpet with "fake" hardwood flooring. I would like to have this upgrade to my apartment. Problem is, I have a GC on the carpet.

Is it possible to put the table on big 4 sets of wheels or something like that? So I can leave it assembled, they can do half the room, then wheel the table onto the completed half, to do the other half?

I'm not super worried about losing level or popping a seam. It would not be the end of the world. I'm more worried about coordinating everything so the floor installers can do the job.

Should I just keep the carpet?

Any other ideas?
Click to expand...

Alright, go down to home depot and buy 4 of the large Teflon furniture skids, put one under each foot, then you can slide the table around like it's on ice....simple to do.
 
Thanks all. I decided to keep the carpet. The apt was going to charge me more rent for the wood, and also I didn't feel like dealing with the hassle.
 
realkingcobra said:
Alright, go down to home depot and buy 4 of the large Teflon furniture skids, put one under each foot, then you can slide the table around like it's on ice....simple to do.
Click to expand...

Great info RKC, I need to move my Gold Crown a couple of feet over the carpet and will pick up some Teflon sliders.

Question: How do you lift the table to get the sliders under the feet? Manually lift each corner (with help)? I could see this twisting the frame and leading to seam pops. Use a jack? I've got a GC1 with non-adjustable feet, if that matters. Thanks!
 
tjohnson said:
Great info RKC, I need to move my Gold Crown a couple of feet over the carpet and will pick up some Teflon sliders.

Question: How do you lift the table to get the sliders under the feet? Manually lift each corner (with help)? I could see this twisting the frame and leading to seam pops. Use a jack? I've got a GC1 with non-adjustable feet, if that matters. Thanks!
Click to expand...

If you use a bottle jack and lift the center of each end, you can place the skids under both end feet at the same time, set down and repeat. Slide the table to where you want it, then reverse the process. Once moved, you'll need to relevel the frame most likely, that is done by loosen the frame bolts to the pedestals, jacking up the corner that is low, then placing the shimming between the frame and the top of the pedestals, not under the feet.
 
realkingcobra said:
If you use a bottle jack and lift the center of each end, you can place the skids under both end feet at the same time, set down and repeat. Slide the table to where you want it, then reverse the process. Once moved, you'll need to relevel the frame most likely, that is done by loosen the frame bolts to the pedestals, jacking up the corner that is low, then placing the shimming between the frame and the top of the pedestals, not under the feet.
Click to expand...

Excellent, many thanks.
 
iusedtoberich said:
Here is my situation:

My table is in my apt. The apt complex is upgrading the current carpet with "fake" hardwood flooring. I would like to have this upgrade to my apartment. Problem is, I have a GC on the carpet.

Is it possible to put the table on big 4 sets of wheels or something like that? So I can leave it assembled, they can do half the room, then wheel the table onto the completed half, to do the other half?

I'm not super worried about losing level or popping a seam. It would not be the end of the world. I'm more worried about coordinating everything so the floor installers can do the job.

Should I just keep the carpet?

Any other ideas?
Click to expand...

I have a floor installer that is "pool" friendly and we did exactly that with my GC3. Removed the old carpet and installed new while sliding the table around with a small 4 wheel caster under each leg. We moved the table in the direction of the carpet stretch during the installation as the carpet was being stretched. Came out fine with no seam pops after a slight re leveling.

JC
 
Well, one year later, and I'm having the carpet replaced with wood this coming Monday.

Glen, I'm ordering a bottle jack off of amazon now. I need to find one short enough to fit under the pedestals.

Also Glen, I'm looking at HD's website for the furniture sliders. The biggest round ones I can find are 5" diameter. The GC4 feet on my table measure about 8" diameter. Were you talking about a different type of furniture slide? A sheet, instead of round disk?

Thanks for your help.
 
iusedtoberich said:
Well, one year later, and I'm having the carpet replaced with wood this coming Monday.

Glen, I'm ordering a bottle jack off of amazon now. I need to find one short enough to fit under the pedestals.

Also Glen, I'm looking at HD's website for the furniture sliders. The biggest round ones I can find are 5" diameter. The GC4 feet on my table measure about 8" diameter. Were you talking about a different type of furniture slide? A sheet, instead of round disk?

Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...

Then the next best thing is to get some Teflon flexible cutting boards used for cutting up vegetables, they'll slid real easy.
 
iusedtoberich said:
Glen, I'm ordering a bottle jack off of amazon now. I need to find one short enough to fit under the pedestals.
Click to expand...

Glen will probably reply soon, but I think he meant to jack up under the frame.
Jack at the center of the head & foot rail. (only one side at a time, under the darker part of the frame in the photo)

You can use any bottle jack that will fit between the floor & the frame.
Get one that is rated for the at least half the weight of your table.

You will need to block up the jack to reach the frame, or carefully use a wood 4x4 lengthwise between the jack & the frame.
Make sure the ends of the 4x4 are cut square so it lifts straight up.

Be safe. Don't get your fingers under the table legs at all during the process.

30m4znk.jpg
 
The ProRailbird said:
Glen will probably reply soon, but I think he meant to jack up under the frame.
Jack at the center of the head & foot rail. (only one side at a time, under the darker part of the frame in the photo)

You can use any bottle jack that will fit between the floor & the frame.
Get one that is rated for the at least half the weight of your table.

You will need to block up the jack to reach the frame, or carefully use a wood 4x4 lengthwise between the jack & the frame.
Make sure the ends of the 4x4 are cut square so it lifts straight up.

Be safe. Don't get your fingers under the table legs at all during the process.

30m4znk.jpg
Click to expand...

Best to pick the table up with a jack under the frame at the middle on the side of the table not the ends.
That way if your seems weren't glued.....maybe the slates won't separate.
I've done plenty that way...and no problems.
The side is the best way to lift the tables.
Mark Gregory
 
perfectpocketz said:
Best to pick the table up with a jack under the frame at the middle on the side of the table not the ends.
That way if your seems weren't glued.....maybe the slates won't separate.
I've done plenty that way...and no problems.
The side is the best way to lift the tables.
Mark Gregory
Click to expand...

That's a great idea, Thanks Mark !!
 
I jacked the table up with no problems. I put the jack under the center of the pedestal, where the hole is for wrench access, and put a scrap of wood there to cover the hole.

I put the sliders I got from Amazon under there. They are too small, and with 2 people (weak me and strong girl), we could barely move the table 2 inches. I'll have to find something bigger to put underneath.
 
I went to bed bath and beyond and got those thin plastic cutting boards about credit card thickness. The table slides like butter now with skinny me pushing it by myself! Thanks for the help all!

I will upload pictures soon.
 
iusedtoberich said:
I jacked the table up with no problems. I put the jack under the center of the pedestal, where the hole is for wrench access, and put a scrap of wood there to cover the hole.

I put the sliders I got from Amazon under there. They are too small, and with 2 people (weak me and strong girl), we could barely move the table 2 inches. I'll have to find something bigger to put underneath.
Click to expand...

I don't want to sound smart....but that's the worst place to jack the table up....the pedestals are plywood....and I've seen them crushed so many times...people jacking the tables up under the pedestals
Sounds like you got away with one there.....good for you.
I don't advise that move again.
Under the frame on the side of the table is best.

Good luck
Mark Gregory
 
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