Shaft storage
- Thread starter Kim Bye
- Start date
storage
https://www.menards.com/main/tools-...31516670-c-12652.htm?tid=-2752285938168092791
I put the butcher block on bottom and turn the top drawer upside down and it works great I have 5 of them now. I think they run $50 but you can get them on sale for $40
https://www.menards.com/main/tools-...31516670-c-12652.htm?tid=-2752285938168092791
I put the butcher block on bottom and turn the top drawer upside down and it works great I have 5 of them now. I think they run $50 but you can get them on sale for $40
I keep squares stacked up under a bench, dowels standing up in 55-gal trash cans, and shafts being cut in a 5-gal bucket. Finish cut shafts get matched & a rubber band pairs them up, and they are stored in another 5-gal bucket. Warpers will warp regardless if they're hung up or stored otherwise, and likewise the stable stuff will stay stable regardless. I hang forearms & handles for convenience, for organization. I used to hang everything, especially shafts, believing that gravity would force and keep them straight. Over many years I have seen no actual proof of that, but actually the contrary. Hanging, at least in my shop, serves no purpose outside of organization.
Those are very similar to the ones I bought years ago from home depot and walmart. If you want to store your full length butt wood upright I use the house cue stands you can buy from Imperial and they hold 48 pieces. Those other stands hold over a hundred shafts.
This is correct (IMO) and has very little to do with gravity.
Gravity will not overcome internal stress or the wood's need/desire to move/warp.
It wants to relieve it's internal stress and there's not much you can do to prevent it.
The wood is going to be pretty much useless unti you allow it to do it's thing.
No, gravity will not force the wood to stay straight while hanging.
However, non-uniform gravity can and will cause wood to warp unNATURALLY.
Stand a cue in a corner @ a 45* angle and see how long it takes to convince you.
Standing a cue at a perfect vertical (or close to) and it should stay straight forever.
This is my opinion and meant to be disected for purpose of discussion. Have at it.
Agreed.
I store mine on a wire rack . Supports in 3 spots. Near finished ones on pvc when I'm working on them so the fan doesn't hit them.
I think people just hang them to save space.
I've found along the years, manually centering them and using thin really sharp slotters are more important than most things in keeping them straight.
I had to read your post twice because I was about to disagree. Then I noticed you say 45*. That's quite severe, and very much impractical as this conversation goes. In such case, yes I concede you likely may be correct.
Otherwise, in practical real life terms, I have a bundle of cues ranging from old Titleists to some of my earliest cues standing up, leaning in the corner of my shop. I'm on my third shop now, currently TN, before in AK then NM. The cues have yet to warp. Going on 20yrs since my shop was in AK and the cues are still straight after spending that long leaning on the wall and traveling half way around the globe from frozen north to desert to wet south. Perhaps gravity will someday force a bend in them, but it hasn't yet. They are not leaning at 45*, but rather more like 2*-3*. In my personal experience, I have not seen gravity force wood to bow. Maybe others have. I have not.
That all said, take a wet board and lie it flat on your concrete driveway for a few days in the sun. Gravity will not keep it flat. It will lift itself off the concrete as it dries. IMO, gravity is significantly less force than the strength of a piece of wood to either move or stay straight.
Somewhat ghetto but holds a lot of shafts in little area. $2.00 swivel casters from harbor freight let it roll to the saw with ease.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I was able to find rolling kitchen carts on CraigsList for a substantial savings over new.
The other method I have seen is to hang a wire grid from the ceiling and then hang the wood from that grid using cup hooks. I'm leery of that method as it would seem that the screw of the cup hook might skew the center of your lathe center hole.
My 2 cents,
Gary
The other method I have seen is to hang a wire grid from the ceiling and then hang the wood from that grid using cup hooks. I'm leery of that method as it would seem that the screw of the cup hook might skew the center of your lathe center hole.
My 2 cents,
Gary
Part of my thinking in attempting to solve a problem is to look at it in it's extremes.
Then, moving towards the center of those extremes is where the solution lies.
Yes, 45* is a bit severe but it was meant to be; that was one of the extremes.
The other is the perfectly vertical. Anything in between should be considered a variable.
Shafts by themselves should present no problem regardless of how they're stored.
Going on gut instinct (absent of documentation) what I believe comes into play is,
strength of the mtrl vs mass. A 13mm, 4oz shaft is pretty stout. If having passed all
critiques coming to that finished size, it doesn't matter if it's hung, laid flat or even canted.
It's already found it's 'happy place'. There's just not that much mass for gravity to play against.
Your example of the board on the driveway I believe is a different phenomena.
In this one, gravity loses. I see it as moisture in the cells of the top 1/2 of the board evaporating
while the cells in the surface in contact with the concrete are being sustained in their H2O content.
The sun doesn't see the bottom side so it's not drying-out. That's a real good way to induce a warp.
Just in case no one has picked-up on this, I will on occasion, deliberately make a statement that will
be questioned or 'called-out'. Why ? Because sometimes I don't know and am waiting for someone to tell me.
Another reason is that we are not alone. There are many readers of this forum who have never posted
and only read. For whatever reason, they will not ask 'that' question. By me putting myself on 'front street',
a bevy of responses will ensue and that mystery reader will now have numerous opinions on which to decide.
In that scenario, it's not just me that's learning, it's a lot of people that otherwise might not have.
Peace Out, KJ
PS - I just saw the upside-down milk crates. Very trick idea. I do the same thing.
I look forward to and appreciate the discussions, so long as they stay civil. In the end we all have our own shops & our own methods, but hearing others' point of view gives food for thought.
I don't know if you can find this there.
I have those organizers. Has 9 rows and 9 holes. 81 shafts per rack.
They come in 8 by 8 too.
Cost like $15 here at Target and Walmart . I have several of them.
No wheels.
I had a five tier 4' X 2' shelving unit (steel frame, pressboard shelves) from
Lowes that was sort of extra. I split it up into a 3 tier and a 2 tier. One became a work space. The other I got a hole saw and drilled holes and made a shaft and butt rack out of it. A little labor intensive but it works great thoug not mobile. I drilled some holes large enough do butts but it is mostly for shafts.
Lowes that was sort of extra. I split it up into a 3 tier and a 2 tier. One became a work space. The other I got a hole saw and drilled holes and made a shaft and butt rack out of it. A little labor intensive but it works great thoug not mobile. I drilled some holes large enough do butts but it is mostly for shafts.
I like to stack my shaft squares.
After their first turn, I store them by hanging them. After each turn I hang them again.
INSIDE NURSERY TENTS.
A great way to keep the humidity low in humid areas is simple, use a grow tent with the right light inside. A light will burn the moisture in the air. The grow tents have vent holes for fans as well, one small one is more than enough. You can set one up to hold shafts, they come in 2x2 or 2x4 for under $100. They have a moisture barrier too.
1 small tent, 3/8" rods 2' long from home despot to use at the top of the tent, they fit right on top after cutting off a couple of inches, bingo, you can now hold hundreds in a temp controlled environment.
Back in the 90's I made a wood dryer that could dry 1,000 board feet of wood in 30 days. I built many things with the woods it dried. From a large shop, 5 decks and a bedroom set, they all work great to this day.
After their first turn, I store them by hanging them. After each turn I hang them again.
INSIDE NURSERY TENTS.
A great way to keep the humidity low in humid areas is simple, use a grow tent with the right light inside. A light will burn the moisture in the air. The grow tents have vent holes for fans as well, one small one is more than enough. You can set one up to hold shafts, they come in 2x2 or 2x4 for under $100. They have a moisture barrier too.
1 small tent, 3/8" rods 2' long from home despot to use at the top of the tent, they fit right on top after cutting off a couple of inches, bingo, you can now hold hundreds in a temp controlled environment.
Back in the 90's I made a wood dryer that could dry 1,000 board feet of wood in 30 days. I built many things with the woods it dried. From a large shop, 5 decks and a bedroom set, they all work great to this day.