Uneven points

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Thanks for all the feedback , I'm not in anyway disappointed with the cue , only reason I asked is because. I might sell it and there are people that seem to think it lessens the value of the cue , there where cue makers on facebook ripping this guy about uneven points talking about ( I wouldn't even let a cue with uneven points out of my shop and all types of crap ) it kind of discouraged me to even post the cue felt like I had to ask for less than I wanted. But again thanks for the feedback to all with positive remarks

Facebook??? That's another place for soap opera's. I like it as is. This is what I tell people. Everytime I unwrap the surgical tubing and wax paper then turn the forearm. It's like opening a present because you don't know til you turn it. To see if all your work came out as planned. Finishing is finishing.
 

jazznpool

Superior Cues--Unchalked!
Gold Member
Silver Member
Not all points are the same. Inlayed points used such as those used by well known cuemakers Tad and Ginacue, for example, will always appear perfectly even because they are static once they are installed. With V-groove points and blanks the better skilled cuemakers know how to re-adjust the front and back centers during the turning process to keep the points running reasonably straight. Thanks to all who added positive information here.
 
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Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Not all points are the same. Inlayed points used such as those used by well known cuemakers Tad and Ginacue, for example, will always appear perfectly even because they are static once they are installed. With V-groove points and blanks the better skilled cuemakers know how to re-adjust the front and back centers during the turning process to keep the points running reasonably straight. Thanks to all who added positive information here.

One of the most important tools in my shop. Dial indicators. Got to have them.
 

cueman

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
Something that has puzzled me is who gets to say what is quality work? Is it the cuemaker himself and his work is what it is? Or is it the guy with the jewelers loop? Or is it the market itself?

Take uneven points for instance. If you scrape them even then the finish builds up heavier over them, but they look near perfect. If you offset your centers then you could be throwing the wrap joint off center to cut them straight. Both methods leave small flaws in the cue that cannot be seen with the eye. But they can cause aggravation to the cue repairman that refinishes or does other repairs on them years down the road. So which cue has the most quality? The one with uneven points or the ones that have been touched up? I know there are two or three other ways to get the points even that do not throw a wrap joint off or need scraping, but I just mentioned the two most popular ways to make the points even.

If the cuemaker does not care about uneven points then that his his quality at his price point.

If they are a fanatic about even points then they sell cues with even points at their price point.

Here is what I think. Quit complaining about even or uneven points and just buy the cue at the price and point evenness that the particular cuemaker is known to produce. Now if a cuemaker sells his cue for a certain price and is known for dead even points at that price then you might have a complaint. Otherwise enjoy the cue and quit listening to the cue inspectors, that probably would not know how to turn a wood square round if you gave them a lathe for free.
 
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cueman

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
One of the most important tools in my shop. Dial indicators. Got to have them.
I agree with this 100%. Not just for points, but for joints, rings, ferrules, boring and more.

Also I am glad you said Dial indicators and not Digital indicators. I hate those tiny watch batteries that are always dead when you need them work.
 

Mcues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
points

The market places a premium on even points and discounts unevenness. Sound about right.

Mario
 

octy81

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
The market places a premium on even points and discounts unevenness. Sound about right.

Mario

Yeah, people tend to look at a cue with uneven points like the cue is a piece of crap , my cue was built by QB cues and anyone who has played with their cues know the quality and hit . But people are more about the visual , and would really try to low ball when negotiating price . But if I can help it I wouldn't sell it I'm happy with the cue it has an amazing hit
 

Get_A_Grip

Truth Will Set You Free
Silver Member
My personal opinion is that if I am getting a cue with points, they better be as close to dead nuts straight and even with each other as possible. If the maker told me that he couldn't make a cue with even points, then I would get one without points or find a different cue maker.

If they need to sand the taller points so that they are even with the others, then I would be fine with that. Points and inlays are for aesthetic purposes anyways, but I absolutely hate cues with uneven points.

EDIT: I had bought a Richard Black cue once for $2600 on the secondary market. Yep, I liked everything about it, except that it had uneven points. I sent it back.
 
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Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I agree with this 100%. Not just for points, but for joints, rings, ferrules, boring and more.

Also I am glad you said Dial indicators and not Digital indicators. I hate those tiny watch batteries that are always dead when you need them work.

........Amen......
It's an old fashion thing with me. I want to see the dial.
 

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
........Amen......
It's an old fashion thing with me. I want to see the dial.

One late cue maker here who was famous for his 8 sharp and even points didn't even bother using an indicator.
He used the pencil on the tool post trick.
He made probably 500 8-pointers in his life.
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
One late cue maker here who was famous for his 8 sharp and even points didn't even bother using an indicator.
He used the pencil on the tool post trick.
He made probably 500 8-pointers in his life.

Good point. Mr. Fuller was awesome.
 

DaveK

Still crazy after all these years
Silver Member
Eddie could fix that cue with a sharpie.

Hope everyone is enjoying a wonderful holiday season.

Dave
 

scdiveteam

Rick Geschrey
Silver Member
?Hi,

1.) Traming in your tail stock and indexing head with a Thompson rod is essential on your fixture.


2.) The elevation of the cutter being perfect with the blank's 90 degree center (elevation) is also critical.

3.) The veneers you buy are not dimensionally the same thickness. They must be made to be perfect thickness before you glue them if you wish to have great point geometry, up and down the forearm.

Many cuemakers I know cut their v grooves very close to final taper turning.

I cut my grooves when the nose of the cue has been taper turned to .965. After gluing in the point veneers and taper turning to .950, if the points are off a touch, I can mount the blank in the lathe Chuck then shim and move the center a hair more than a few times if needed.

Since getting steps 1,2 & 3 set correctly, I have not had to shim a cue and still install the points at .965 and watch them stay even all the way down to .850.

Focus on 1, 2, & 3 and you will find that repeatability is in your future. If you do not have very accurate equipment, forgeaboutit.

JMO,

Rick
 
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Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
?Hi,

1.) Traming in your tail stock and indexing head with a Thompson rod is essential on your fixture.


2.) The elevation of the cutter being perfect with the blank's 90 degree center (elevation) is also critical.

3.) The veneers you buy are not dimensionally the same thickness. They must be made to be perfect thickness before you glue them if you wish to have great point geometry, up and down the forearm.

Many cuemakers I know cut their v grooves very close to final taper turning.

I cut my grooves when the nose of the cue has been taper turned to .965. After gluing in the point veneers and taper turning to .950, if the points are off a touch, I can mount the blank in the lathe Chuck then shim and move the center a hair more than a few times if needed.

Since getting steps 1,2 & 3 set correctly, I have not had to shim a cue and still install the points at .965 and watch them stay even all the way down to .850.

Focus on 1, 2, & 3 and you will find that repeatability is in your future. If you do not have very accurate equipment, forgeaboutit.

JMO,

Rick


Good points Rick. I won't even get started on Veneers. It's been an argument I've had with a Vendor for years. My conclusion is. He just doesn't care or understand what we really do. So I buy elsewhere.
 

scdiveteam

Rick Geschrey
Silver Member
Good points Rick. I won't even get started on Veneers. It's been an argument I've had with a Vendor for years. My conclusion is. He just doesn't care or understand what we really do. So I buy elsewhere.

Hi Mike,

I run mine through and roller press and compress them to the same size. Not nominal dimension.

Rick
 

cueman

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
Hi Mike,

I run mine through and roller press and compress them to the same size. Not nominal dimension.

Rick

Will they expand back out in thickness some if you leave them setting out for a month or so? I do not have a roller press and am just curious. Has anyone tried drum sanding them?
 

BarenbruggeCues

Unregistered User
Silver Member
Instead of attempting to make something happen that is more hillbilly rigging, wouldn't the proper way be to cut all the veneers to same thickness before you sandwich glue them? I mean gheezzzzz...If I want a compact car, I don't smash my pickup into one. I go buy a compact car.
Although there are some benefits to cutting the pockets when the forearm is the correct size, (not too large, not too small) being able to keep your point tips even has nothing to do with size. Size does not matter.......in this case!
 
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Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Instead of attempting to make something happen that is more hillbilly rigging, wouldn't the proper way be to cut all the veneers to same thickness before you sandwich glue them? I mean gheezzzzz...If I want a compact car, I don't smash my pickup into one. I go buy a compact car.
Although there are some benefits to cutting the pockets when the forearm is the correct size, (not too large, not too small) being able to keep your point tips even has nothing to do with size. Size does not matter.......in this case!

Awesome as always. Are you going to start offering veneers? :thumbup:

Happy New Year
 
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