Grady had enough shafts to stake out a large tomato patch
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So did Babe Cranfield.
playing with the same cue all the time.
- Thread starter lorider
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So did Babe Cranfield.
I have four shafts for my Dishaw. The two original, one of which was butchered by the second owner who likes thinner shafts, a little over 12 mm and the other about 12.7mm.
The two newer ones which Dan made for me after I bought the cue are both 12.5 mm. I switch the two newer shafts daily, one on odd days, the other on even days so both shafts and tips wear evenly. I've done this for years and never ordered a cue with one shaft nor will I buy one on the secondary market with only one. I can also play with the older shafts if I choose to. In a very short time I play equally well with any of the four.
The two newer ones which Dan made for me after I bought the cue are both 12.5 mm. I switch the two newer shafts daily, one on odd days, the other on even days so both shafts and tips wear evenly. I've done this for years and never ordered a cue with one shaft nor will I buy one on the secondary market with only one. I can also play with the older shafts if I choose to. In a very short time I play equally well with any of the four.
pt109......yes, I do own more than one cue and I have them listed in my Az signature.
There are eight cues in my collection and there'd be more were it not for CA's ivory ban.
I transport six cues in my cue case & all the cues have flat ivory joints & big pin threads.
Four (4) of the six (6) cues were custom built with identical specs including the butts & shafts.
These cues weigh 18.5 -18.6 ozs whereas my Scrugs & Prewitt cues weigh 18.35 & 18.75 ozs.
The tips on the Owen cues and Rauenzahn cues are all Kamui Black Clear (soft) and the tips
on the Scruggs & Prewitt cues are Kamui Black (med) & original Moori Brown (med). And the
shafts on these six cues are all 12.75 - 13.0 mm and weigh 3.85 ozs to 4.2 ozs.
My collection was built around the cues all being closely matched in specs so that changing cues
would not only be easier but virtually seamless in almost every aspect. Of course that isn't always
the case since I do have a few favorites but I think it's based more on the design of the cue than feel.
Anyway, back to my original point.........it is more beneficial to play with a single cue, or cues really
very close in specifications, so that the cue's weight proportionality, hit, vibration and overall tactile
feel in your gripping fingers remains the same, or close, on a variety of shots & stroke velocities used.
This is my personal belief and I've found that when I change cues, there's hardly any difference in
the way the cue feels in my hands. This is likley why I never found a Hercek cue I searched in vain
since the cue had to fall within the specs of the other ivory joint cues already in my small collection.
I think better players are less bothered by the differences in the cue they are playing with and sadly,
either due to my inability to focus or my skills, I'm not one of them since I find it more of a distraction.
Matt B.
There are eight cues in my collection and there'd be more were it not for CA's ivory ban.
I transport six cues in my cue case & all the cues have flat ivory joints & big pin threads.
Four (4) of the six (6) cues were custom built with identical specs including the butts & shafts.
These cues weigh 18.5 -18.6 ozs whereas my Scrugs & Prewitt cues weigh 18.35 & 18.75 ozs.
The tips on the Owen cues and Rauenzahn cues are all Kamui Black Clear (soft) and the tips
on the Scruggs & Prewitt cues are Kamui Black (med) & original Moori Brown (med). And the
shafts on these six cues are all 12.75 - 13.0 mm and weigh 3.85 ozs to 4.2 ozs.
My collection was built around the cues all being closely matched in specs so that changing cues
would not only be easier but virtually seamless in almost every aspect. Of course that isn't always
the case since I do have a few favorites but I think it's based more on the design of the cue than feel.
Anyway, back to my original point.........it is more beneficial to play with a single cue, or cues really
very close in specifications, so that the cue's weight proportionality, hit, vibration and overall tactile
feel in your gripping fingers remains the same, or close, on a variety of shots & stroke velocities used.
This is my personal belief and I've found that when I change cues, there's hardly any difference in
the way the cue feels in my hands. This is likley why I never found a Hercek cue I searched in vain
since the cue had to fall within the specs of the other ivory joint cues already in my small collection.
I think better players are less bothered by the differences in the cue they are playing with and sadly,
either due to my inability to focus or my skills, I'm not one of them since I find it more of a distraction.
Matt B.
I was the same with Golf Putters, Drivers and Wedges until after I tried many, many, was single digit. Probably won't settle on one go to Cue until I am a much better player.
In the meantime, love getting something fresh and mixing it up. Looking right now been playing with same cue for 5 months. This is about the time I pick something new up or go to one of my cases.
Have a good weekend,
-Kat,
In the meantime, love getting something fresh and mixing it up. Looking right now been playing with same cue for 5 months. This is about the time I pick something new up or go to one of my cases.
Have a good weekend,
-Kat,
Well for about a decade I pretty much used one cue except for power breaking. On the rare I’d take my other players out.....after my sweet pea got her arm broken everything even my others that I made, and all the other cues I’ve collected over the years (all fine players)
I was totally distraught as if I lost a tangible piece of my arm.....still don’t like looking at it in the case....
Any way I digress
Because I was soooo uncomfortable I basically said ya know what I’m gonna break this mentality off at the knees and so I started just playing with every dam thing I had and then some and switching often......
I remember playing this fella and having a very difficult cut draw to the corner that had to be hit ultra light letting the cues weight do all the work to avoid the scratch in side and still come long short long for position....
Told myself The cue knows it job and so does your arm kid.....well that sob tried making that shot for about half an hour after i finished steam rolling him.
I never switched cues often as I grew just a new one with diff qualities as my game grew so I never had that...I’d get used to a cue and stick with it....but that Prototype was.....well let’s just say the only thing the revo has on it was it don’t break as easily.
I’ll never be that codependent ever again but in due time I’ll find the proper matching tonal old hard maple I need....and that’ll be a good day indeed...not for everyone else but for me
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I'm an amateur collector - probably have 30 in total - I play with the least expensive of them all - a Roger Allen Sneaky Pete that I bought used and had refinished and a linen wrap put on - unless the cue gets lost or stolen, I can honestly say I'll play with it and it alone until I give the game up - it just felt right when I picked it up, I'm comfortable with it and to me it's ideal.
Everyone's different - I used to have 4/5 cues in my case when I played, plus my break and jump cues - now I have 3 total - my player, my jump and my break cue. It's all about what you as a player are comfortable with - if you want to switch cues after every rack, knock yourself out - this is a game and you're supposed to enjoy it and play it the way you want to.
Everyone's different - I used to have 4/5 cues in my case when I played, plus my break and jump cues - now I have 3 total - my player, my jump and my break cue. It's all about what you as a player are comfortable with - if you want to switch cues after every rack, knock yourself out - this is a game and you're supposed to enjoy it and play it the way you want to.
I've been playing with the same Schon butt since '91.
The original shafts were ordered at 13.25 and wound up feeling like a brand new Predator Z by 2001 or so. They were replaced with 2 new ivory ferruled Schon shafts at 13mm but they were tapered different by Evan on request. These 2 shafts are now at 12.25 after 5 years of use.
I eventually got 4 more Schon shafts that didn't have ivory ferrules but only 2 of those are still on hand. I also wound up with 2 others that were bought new with Ivorine 4 ferrules,and changed to ivory when you could still buy ivory ferrule blanks from Mueller's.
The 2 playing shafts I have had in my case for the last 4 years were both made from scratch,starting with damaged house cues.
Both are tapered much like the stiffer SW/Kersenbrock shafts,with .050 worth of growth in the first 20 inches,leaving almost no straight section to speak of,and both are right at 12.75.
Since ivory is a pain to get now,my preferred ferrule is Mason Micarta.
I've decided to not buy any more cues unless the cash was there for an impulse buy or possible flip,or money became no object and I started a collection.
I will make my next cue.
The common thread amongst all 9 of the shafts I own including the shaft for my Schon break cue,is that all of them must be a good piece of wood and made with quality materials because ALL of them when combined with this butt make a Szamboti-like musical PING when you hit a ball good.
Obviously,the ones with ivory ferrules are a little higher pitched,but it's there.
On another note,unless I saw him twice in the same year,I never saw Buddy Hall or Jose Parica with the same cue twice and probably saw them 20-30 times each.
When I was getting out with Grady I never saw him change or fiddle with shafts much,but he had a big zippered case with a bunch in it with him. He was playing with a Samsara at the time. Tommy D.
The original shafts were ordered at 13.25 and wound up feeling like a brand new Predator Z by 2001 or so. They were replaced with 2 new ivory ferruled Schon shafts at 13mm but they were tapered different by Evan on request. These 2 shafts are now at 12.25 after 5 years of use.
I eventually got 4 more Schon shafts that didn't have ivory ferrules but only 2 of those are still on hand. I also wound up with 2 others that were bought new with Ivorine 4 ferrules,and changed to ivory when you could still buy ivory ferrule blanks from Mueller's.
The 2 playing shafts I have had in my case for the last 4 years were both made from scratch,starting with damaged house cues.
Both are tapered much like the stiffer SW/Kersenbrock shafts,with .050 worth of growth in the first 20 inches,leaving almost no straight section to speak of,and both are right at 12.75.
Since ivory is a pain to get now,my preferred ferrule is Mason Micarta.
I've decided to not buy any more cues unless the cash was there for an impulse buy or possible flip,or money became no object and I started a collection.
I will make my next cue.
The common thread amongst all 9 of the shafts I own including the shaft for my Schon break cue,is that all of them must be a good piece of wood and made with quality materials because ALL of them when combined with this butt make a Szamboti-like musical PING when you hit a ball good.
Obviously,the ones with ivory ferrules are a little higher pitched,but it's there.
On another note,unless I saw him twice in the same year,I never saw Buddy Hall or Jose Parica with the same cue twice and probably saw them 20-30 times each.
When I was getting out with Grady I never saw him change or fiddle with shafts much,but he had a big zippered case with a bunch in it with him. He was playing with a Samsara at the time. Tommy D.
For a long while I switched cues almost every week. Since last April I've been using a Revo and when it counts for my weekly tournament and weekly league that's what I use. Only time I take out any of my others cues for a spin is if I'm just going to hit some racks with buddies for a couple of hours. Don't really see myself not using the Revo when it counts as I think I actually prefer the dark shaft now more than natural wood.
It’s funny. I was traveling for work and found a bar with four 7’ Diamonds. I grabbed the best bar cue I could find off the wall. Between that and being a little exhausted from flying, I could barely string two balls together. I got back home and after a good nights rest and getting my stick back in my hand, I was hitting like a champ.
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Of course playing with the same cue will help you be better. Almost every good player I know (strong B's and A's) shoot with the same cue and shaft for years on end.
It is all about what you want out of pool, if you are striving to be the best player than find a cue and stick to it, get out and practice as much as possible, and play better players.
If you like pool, because you like cues and change them all the time, then you'll probably go up a little bit in skill level but never achieve the best you could be. In this current era of pool, at least you can play with the same shaft across multiple butts if you want.
Personally I like variety, and long ago got comfortable being the bad pool player I am.
It is all about what you want out of pool, if you are striving to be the best player than find a cue and stick to it, get out and practice as much as possible, and play better players.
If you like pool, because you like cues and change them all the time, then you'll probably go up a little bit in skill level but never achieve the best you could be. In this current era of pool, at least you can play with the same shaft across multiple butts if you want.
Personally I like variety, and long ago got comfortable being the bad pool player I am.
I believe that, to play your bestest pool, you need to stick to the same stick. As others have pointed out, there are issues of feel and deflection involved. Perhaps with different tips there might be rpm issues also. And I’ve always felt that the balance of a cue can be a critical element affecting (potentially altering) your PSR.
Having said that, if what’s more important to you is enjoying your cue collection, then that’s OK too but you’ll suffer in the precision and consistency department. None of that is to say that you won’t be able to go into a bar and use any old piece of lumber to beat up on the yokels.
Lou Figueroa
Sounds like you're contradicting yourself by saying one cue is best for familiarity and consistency and then "it's the INDIAN not the arrow as always".
If ONE CUE is best it's the specific arrow you're promoting. If it's the INDIAN, he could own and play with 20 and it wouldn't matter.
It a combination of both the Indian AND the arrow as always.
Sure does doesn’t it. But it ain’t, as I’m only talking about it mentally. Having something that fits perfect is one thing but being codependent with it mentally to be able to win is another thing entirely.....
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The impression made in your post was physical, not mental. Each and every cue does in fact perform differently in the hands of players. So there is a lot to do with the arrow and what Indian is using it. They could be heaven, hell, or purgatory. Depends who is using it.
You said this in another post: "I’ll never be that codependent ever again but in due time I’ll find the proper matching tonal old hard maple I need" So do you not want to be codependent with a cue or very codependent as in 'one with the cue'.
I really don't know where you're coming from but it sounds like another contradiction.
Or I just don't understand you. Now I see why you and Paultex got along so well.
I nor anyone else could understand him but you could.
6 cues? Did you have a caddy for your case? lol
We barely get along and I actually ***** him out quite often. But I can understand pretty much anyone... just a talent of mine I guess.
I’m talking purely mental. Just because one is ohh so perfect doesn’t mean one need rest their consciousness on it so it becomes a death nail when it’s not there.
By and by champions win championships with their B game.
And of course I talk both sides....king of the grey stuff an all that wash.
Fwiw,
Greyghost
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