Who here install's their own Tip's and what tool's do you use

PoolFan101

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hello ,

I have always taken my Cues to my repair guy to fix any and all things with my cue. I really like his work and he is a great guy to deal with . The only thing I hate is he is a 1 hr away and I try to wait until I have a few cues to make the trip. It just seems like a lot of trouble to drive into the city for 1 hr just to install a tip. I would like to learn to install my own as that I have several I would like to try to see what I like best but have a hard time doing so . Do any of you guy's install your own tips, ones that are not cue repair or builder guy's , and if so what tools do you use. The Guy I go to sells a tool that is a flat disc that sands the ferrule flat so the tip will be level. Is that needed, I can shape a tip really nice. What do you guy's recommend. Thanks
 
Crazy glue and razor
Triangle and lepro
Shape with the last 4ever tool, it can also sand the tip flat
My breaker i had to take to the pool room, your not cutting that white diamond tip down like that
 
razor to remove old tip
flat file to clean/flatten ferrule & new tip
gel crazy glue
flat file to trim new tip

pj <- not a rocket surgeon
chgo
 
I've done a couple and while they turned out ok its nothing like having a pro do it. One slip and you're looking at a new ferrule. I'm sticking with someone with the right equipment.
 
Prism super glue and a Williards Tipping Tool.

Can't imaging doing it any other way without a lathe.

Lou Figueroa
 
Any good Kiridashi knife but you need to know how to sharpen them, and you need to sharpen it after every tip. They are as simple as knifes get, but sharpening is an art. If not done correctly expect a mess. Practice or find someone that has a lathe and experience.

Don't learn on anything you care for.
 
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I take my good cues to a pro. $20 every six months is a cheap price to pay to get it done right!
 
No way in hell I'd do it myself. I have Ivory & Westinghouse Micarta as my best ferrules. I only use Triangle Le Pro's or Chandivert Champions but I wouldn't trust a klutz like my self even if I had a lathe!
 
Hello ,

I have always taken my Cues to my repair guy to fix any and all things with my cue. I really like his work and he is a great guy to deal with . The only thing I hate is he is a 1 hr away and I try to wait until I have a few cues to make the trip. It just seems like a lot of trouble to drive into the city for 1 hr just to install a tip. I would like to learn to install my own as that I have several I would like to try to see what I like best but have a hard time doing so . Do any of you guy's install your own tips, ones that are not cue repair or builder guy's , and if so what tools do you use. The Guy I go to sells a tool that is a flat disc that sands the ferrule flat so the tip will be level. Is that needed, I can shape a tip really nice. What do you guy's recommend. Thanks
I can't recommend that flat disk thing. If you bevel your ferrule, it'll be a small issue to fix by hand. You should just cut off the old tip and sand by hand carefully.

Try to buy tips close in size to your shaft. If they are way oversized, they are harder to deal with. Gel super glue works great for leather tips. You can use liquid for things like Kamui clear, but it runs - so use sparingly.

You can use the old rubber band trick to keep pressure on them. Just wrap the rubber band 6-8-10 inches down the shaft and then stretch it up over the tip. Practice before you do a real tip.

After you have it glued, you can use all kinds of systems to get it flush. I think a drill and some sort of holder would be a great way to flush things up. You can do it by hand if you are diligent.

As others have noted, there are all kinds of tools to assist you from grazers, to razors, to full on install tools. If you are only doing one or two tips a year, get some manner of tip shaver and you should be good to go. [I have this in my case all the time: https://www.amazon.com/Cuestix-Cue-...T1CPGZ7CMS&psc=1&refRID=N94G3F3BQET1CPGZ7CMS]
 
no big deal

I do have lathes and toys, not handy or not set up. I had two laminated tips delaminate within a three week period which left me in need of a couple tip installs in the middle of this Covid 19 mess.

Tools and supplies:
Elkmaster tips, these were weighed and selected but not dudded.
Masking tape
A medium thick CA glue(superglue)
Thin CA glue(I have many choices left over from earlier experimentation)
Draw knife (the first thing I saw wicked sharp)
Sandpaper (whatever is handy)


First thing, remove what is left of the old tip. I did this in several thin slices. Nice thing about the draw knife, the blade is flat on one side, beveled on the other.

Rough up the mating surfaces of the tip and the ferrule or pad if you don't use a ferrule.

Now I started wrapping the masking tape around the ferrule. The tip is bigger diameter than the ferrule and I want something to center it. First wraps are very tight, I don't want glue getting on my ferrule or shaft. After I build out to the same diameter as the tip I shave the tape so it is exactly the same level as the top of the ferrule or pad. Then I wrapped a couple layers of tape slightly higher than my build up to the proper diameter. These layers sticking up are to guide my tip install. I test fit dry before gluing. All good.

One tip I put a few drops of the thin CA glue on the tip and ferrule to be sure I had penetration particularly into the leather tip. The other tip I forgot to. I have been breaking and playing with both tips for over a month and they have held uo great, no problems and they are holding their shape well.

I stood the shafts up on a flat surface to put light pressure on the tips to hold them in place until the glue dried. Then I took the tape off and shaved down the outside of the tip to match the ferrule. Since the tips were well centered I accepted the factory crown with no shaping on my part.

The draw knife was not a must so I will take a little time to talk about razor blades and utility knife blades. Stay away from heavy duty blades they are the dullest of all. The bulk packaged blades meant for commercial or industrial use are lower quality than the small packages on store shelves for home use also.

I tested all of the utility knife blades I could find a few years back for a magazine article that died with the magazine. I found that all the bi-metal, cobalt or kobalt coated, and titanium coated blades were well worth the extra cost. They were sharper to begin with and lasted longer before getting dull. Worth every penny and it didn't seem to matter which premium blade I tested, all were superior to the standard and heavy duty blades.

The next thing is holding the utility knife blade. I hate the retractable blade handles. The blade moves around and can easily ruin a tip or ferrule. I buy the rigid mount handles, which cost more than the retractable ones! They may still allow a little movement. A cheap blade snapped off flush with the handle makes an excellent shim. Please wear eye protection when snapping blades, digging steel out of your eye sucks. I had to have that done before I was more than barely walking.

My way may seem like a little overkill in some steps but I haven't ruined a tip doing it like this and it took longer to type out what I did than to do it. Probably fifteen to twenty minutes per tip compared to more like ten doing it on the lathe. Results aren't enough different to notice. I go through basically the same things on the lathe.

Everyone's mileage may vary of course. Those that can't resist just grabbing a loose utility blade or razor blade may find they donate a little blood to the project too. That is OK, a little blood in a project makes it personal!

Hu
 
one nick!

No way in hell I'd do it myself. I have Ivory & Westinghouse Micarta as my best ferrules. I only use Triangle Le Pro's or Chandivert Champions but I wouldn't trust a klutz like my self even if I had a lathe!


After you nick one of those almost irreplaceable ferrules you will never cut into a ferrule again!

It had been decades since I installed a tip by hand so I went by the gunsmith's rule, always learn on the cheaper part!

Hu
 
I've done a couple and while they turned out ok its nothing like having a pro do it. One slip and you're looking at a new ferrule. I'm sticking with someone with the right equipment.

I have done hundreds by hand and never damaged a ferrule.

The key is to have a new sharp blade and take your time.
 
No way in hell I'd do it myself. I have Ivory & Westinghouse Micarta as my best ferrules. I only use Triangle Le Pro's or Chandivert Champions but I wouldn't trust a klutz like my self even if I had a lathe!
I took my Balabushka shaft with an ivory ferrule to the best billiard supply store in San Francisco. The helper took down the side of the tip with a chisel on the lathe. He had far more enthusiasm than care and my 12.5mm ferrule was suddenly bevelled down to 11.5 at the end.

When I do my own tips, I use essentially the same procedure that Hu describes, including building up the ferrule diameter with tape. I have a procedure that takes the side of the tip down to the ferrule's diameter with sandpaper and some other paper after I get it roughly right with a knife. The tip comes out looking like it was done on a lathe. I don't scratch the ferrule.

My equipment:

sandpaper
super glue gel
magic tape
a box-cutter style utility knife
typing paper (which covers the part of the sandpaper that I don't want to touch the side of the cue)

To put pressure on the tip while the glue is setting, I find a table top or the bottom of a drawer that is the right height to wedge the shaft under to keep some force on it.
 
At events where there is a cue repairman/retipper, I often spend most of an hour watching him work. The procedure these days for taking the side of the tip down seems to be to use a cutting tool on a gear drive where you can do a few thousandths at a time if you want to. It also gets the top of the ferrule perfectly flat and clean. Much better than the chisel fu I experienced.

For those who think they're pretty handy, you may enjoy this video that I stumbled on of a guy using his hands to do an amazing restoration job:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iaVx5LJ7t_c

Apologies in advance to those of you who smell of WD-40.
 
I do my own with a Willard Tipper. After having several shafts and ferrules butchered by cue makers and cue repair folks I quit doing business with them. If you don't know how to do it do some homework and figure it out. That's what I did..
 
I wish there was a machine that shaped (domed) a new tip, apart from a lathe. There are pencil sharpener types that trim the sides, but don’t dome the tip. Tip tools that shape the tip are ok for tips that are not new and completely flat.
 
I wish there was a machine that shaped (domed) a new tip, apart from a lathe. There are pencil sharpener types that trim the sides, but don’t dome the tip. Tip tools that shape the tip are ok for tips that are not new and completely flat.
I don't understand your last sentence. There are tip shapers that will work on all tips to make them the shape you want. The will even make pointy tips flatter besides putting a standard curvature on a flattish tip.

I find a simple piece of sandpaper sufficient and don't really feel the need for a tool.
 
I wish there was a machine that shaped (domed) a new tip, apart from a lathe. There are pencil sharpener types that trim the sides, but don’t dome the tip. Tip tools that shape the tip are ok for tips that are not new and completely flat.
Back in the day the guy that did my tips used one of these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-TWEETEN-...450989?hash=item1ea783ca6d:g:Oh8AAOSwpdpVaId6 I still have one for occasional shaping. Works fine. Takes a little practice but after that you're good. No batteries/elect. needed. Take it anywhere.
 
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I've done a couple and while they turned out ok its nothing like having a pro do it. One slip and you're looking at a new ferrule. I'm sticking with someone with the right equipment.

Never had that issue in 45 years. Just wrap a piece of tape around it.
 
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