The more I read, the more confused I get.
What confuses you about cutting a wrap groove into a wrapless cue. People do ask for that pretty often.
The more I read, the more confused I get.
Chris,. . . . . .Those three tricks should worth a steak dinner. Anyone want to take me out? Okay, I will be happy with a hamburger.
Use joint protector or joint dummy with center hole in the end will give you a turning center. This it what I do when cutting a wrap groove on a wrapless cue. Same thing goes for a shaft that gets turned down with a joint already installed. A wood plug put in place of the rubber bumper then center drilled gives a turning center hole for the butt end of the cue. Those three tricks should worth a steak dinner. Anyone want to take me out? Okay, I will be happy with a hamburger.
You win Cueman, I always work like that + with a steady rest for installing the joint conndections, the steady rest is more an option than necessary for pool cue but yess when you want the highest precision, when I chamber a rifle barrel I turn a taper pilot holder directly in the 3 jaws chuck to put that to 0.00000000 and I have the same taper pilot in a live center, take a cut on barrel and put the steady rest, like that the job is perfectly centered, also when i make special adapter with center hole, I always take a 60 degrees cut after the use of the center drill bit. For the highest accuracy we have to think that the tailstock is never perfectly height centered with the lathe spindle. I'm not sure that I have somethings to learn from Joey!
If the screw has a center hole, I make the J/p shorter and mill a slot on it for the spur driver.Use joint protector or joint dummy with center hole in the end will give you a turning center. This it what I do when cutting a wrap groove on a wrapless cue. Same thing goes for a shaft that gets turned down with a joint already installed. A wood plug put in place of the rubber bumper then center drilled gives a turning center hole for the butt end of the cue. Those three tricks should worth a steak dinner. Anyone want to take me out? Okay, I will be happy with a hamburger.
I try to learn something from everyone, even if it just helps me understand someone's thought process.
So Thank you
I learned something from you.
Quote:
the shaft centers on the OD of the pin
Doubting you are really confused since many of your own posts touch on fairly rigorous practical concepts of precision, nonetheless:
It may work for many, but i have not found the center pop in pins completely reliable.
Not least because my choice of G10 pins are somewhat flexible. I was also badly frightened in early days, back in the mid-80's upon discovery of how easy it was to bend a stainless, least of all brass pin, when installing or changing it. :smile:
Due to stack tolerance - the pin is added to the system after it was machined, and after the cue was machined. Even with the pin perfectly centered in a live threaded hole by the cuemaker, the actual projected pin might vary from perfectly co-axial with the original center pop installed for the convenience of the machinist who made it. Material moves from stresses induced, or alternately, relieved, by the machining process. The forces of the machining process may also contribute.
Potential issues can be avoided by machining the part including the threads, then setting back up between centers and grinding the threads as a final operation. Is this typical for cue parts?
Per the part of my post that you quoted, after the pin is installed in the butt, the shaft does not care about the location of the center pop - it registers on the threads, or on the flats between the threads of the pin depending on style of pin.
So I do all machining on the butt, install the pin, then screw the pin into my sanding mandrel sub-arbor with the appropriate collar mounted. The sanding mandrel has a carefully made center pop concentric with the other features.
Or are we all just bored?
smt
The end goal is very simple for me. When I put the shaft onto the butt and screw it tight, I lay the joint collar of the butt up on the rail with the tip out in space and give it a roll. As long as the there is no visible movement in the tip I have done everything I was suppose to do. Isn't that the end goal for everyone?
Now which was it again? The chicken or the egg?
You center the 2 ends in 4 independent jaws, because the concentricity of pin, barrel ... is unknow.
Or you can dial in the OD of the joint collar after the last pass and install the screw.
You don't center hole Uniloc QR screws.
And there is a trick to keeping that joint collar as smooth as possible after the last pass for easier indication .
I dont understand very well what you have to do on this butt, what do you have to change?
Nothing.
It's done.
I installed the screw after final pass.
Just needs finish and wrap now.
As long as the there is no visible movement in the tip I have done everything I was suppose to do. Isn't that the end goal for everyone?
Nothing.
It's done.
I installed the screw after final pass.
Just needs finish and wrap now.
Not done. You should have polished that pin before you installed it.
Mike<<<<<< 4:30 a.m. SMART ASS
i'll hit it with 0 then 000.
It's not a pin. It's a screw.
Smarter ass at 1:38am