When to fit the pin?

robbycar

Registered
My first butt is ready for final sanding and I am really happy with it so far.

I was thinking I would do the pin next, or is it better to do the finishing and do the pin last?

My reasoning was that I might mark the finish doing it first.

Am I on the right track here?

Rob.
 

JoeyInCali

AzB Gold Member
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Silver Member
When you can indicate the collar at .001 or less.
Ponder on that.
When is it the best time to indicate at .001 or less ?
 

Ed P

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Robbycar, yes you do run a risk of marring the final surface. However, as JoeyInCali mentioned, accuracy is very important when it comes to the pin. Finish methods and set up also play factors.
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
My first butt is ready for final sanding and I am really happy with it so far.

I was thinking I would do the pin next, or is it better to do the finishing and do the pin last?

My reasoning was that I might mark the finish doing it first.

Am I on the right track here?

Rob.

Hi Rob
I install my joint screws after my final cut.
Good luck
 

Kim Bye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
After final cut is when your cue is dead on center. If you use carbide mandrels, it's easy to maintain perfect concentricity through the finishing process.
 

Mcues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
After the last cut I do what I call a finishing cut of .005 then the pin is installed.

Mario
 

QMAKER

LIVE FREE OR DIE
Silver Member
pin install

I install my pins early on around when the joint is .900 and then I turn everything around the pin mounted on centers. I have been doing it that way since my second build in about 1997. Never seen any reason to change and can't see any shortcomings but several benefits. If i'm using a full length core I install the pin in the rough core and turn the core around the pin for perfect
concentricity.
 

EL Picos

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I install my pins early on around when the joint is .900 and then I turn everything around the pin mounted on centers. I have been doing it that way since my second build in about 1997. Never seen any reason to change and can't see any shortcomings but several benefits. If i'm using a full length core I install the pin in the rough core and turn the core around the pin for perfect
concentricity.

You are right, this is the best way for sure!!:)
 

cueman

AzB Gold Member
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Silver Member
I built cues for a while using the little center hole in the end of the pin as my turning center. That only worked when i got the pin in pretty straight. So once I started using carbide sanding mandrels I started waiting until after tapering to install the pin. Both have their advantages but I am happy waiting until after tapering then using the sanding mandrels.
 

JoeyInCali

AzB Gold Member
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You are right, this is the best way for sure!!:)

And what happens if you want to thread the collar with your screw sticking out some 1.25" ?
You have two inch long thread mill ?

If the core warps, you just wasted a screw .

Joint screw install after the final turn is one of those setups and skill you will eventually have to learn .
What if the screw gets bent ? What if the screw has no center hole like the Uniloc QR?
 
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EL Picos

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
And what happens if you want to thread the collar with your screw sticking out some 1.25" ?
You have two inch long thread mill ?

If the core warps, you just wasted a screw .

Joint screw install after the final turn is one of those setups and skill you will eventually have to learn .
What if the screw gets bent ? What if the screw has no center hole like the Uniloc QR?

Sorry I dont have the time to explain all the most accurate methods, but I dont need a center hole in the pin to put anythings between the center, I always work with a steady rest and special tool adaptor that I made myself.
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I've been around a long time and seen a lot of stuff.
All I can say about doing joint screws when the Cue is over sized is:
Concave dead center and or Collet chuck.
 

cueman

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
Use joint protector or joint dummy with center hole in the end will give you a turning center. This it what I do when cutting a wrap groove on a wrapless cue. Same thing goes for a shaft that gets turned down with a joint already installed. A wood plug put in place of the rubber bumper then center drilled gives a turning center hole for the butt end of the cue. Those three tricks should worth a steak dinner. Anyone want to take me out? Okay, I will be happy with a hamburger.
 
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Ssonerai

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Regardless when the pin is installed, the shaft centers on the OD of the pin. Not a center in the pin (if any). Plus i use G10 pins. So install them after the final cut, then install the sanding mandrel which was made for a snug fit on the pin, and continue with sanding, etc.

smt
 
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