boogieman
It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
Thanks! I appreciate your advice, I’m not gonna say this will be perfect but I’m guessing this piggy table will at least look prettier with lipstick!
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Olhausen rattle, is this a good fix?
- Thread starter boogieman
- Start date
It's an Olhausen, you don't need a scientific fix, just a simple solution!!!!
boogieman
It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
Small update, I got all the staples out and the old facings off. I truly understand what mechanics say about furniture grade tables now. The table plays good (except for the pockets) but my oh my you can tell it was made fast by someone with little skill. The cushions ends where the facings go aren't all even with the subrail, it seems they thought barge cement made a good leveler. It's not bad per se, but it's definitely not the work of a cabinet maker. Rough rough rough. Get em out the door fast boys! This is somewhat surprising as olhausen isn't a bad table, but they really don't care much about fit and finish on the parts that matter.
The rails themselves play good and I don't see any looseness there, I'm thankful for that!
EDIT: Another small update, Got the Facings glued on and waiting for the glue to dry some more before I trim them up and get started on the angling/grinding process. I used the calibration disk/sand paper to lightly scuff the facings before installing, worked quite well without any mishaps. It seems the key (as said earlier in the thread) is to take your time and have a light touch. The sanding disk is working very well. I started reviewing the Simonis rail cloth DVD since it's been a while since I did them the first time. I also ended up ordering the bolts for connecting the pocket irons. When I bought the table one was missing and I used a hex head, not the end of the world, but I figured I may as well use correct hardware.
The rails themselves play good and I don't see any looseness there, I'm thankful for that!
EDIT: Another small update, Got the Facings glued on and waiting for the glue to dry some more before I trim them up and get started on the angling/grinding process. I used the calibration disk/sand paper to lightly scuff the facings before installing, worked quite well without any mishaps. It seems the key (as said earlier in the thread) is to take your time and have a light touch. The sanding disk is working very well. I started reviewing the Simonis rail cloth DVD since it's been a while since I did them the first time. I also ended up ordering the bolts for connecting the pocket irons. When I bought the table one was missing and I used a hex head, not the end of the world, but I figured I may as well use correct hardware.
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boogieman
It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
I have some pics but I will post them later, I'm just too lazy to get them off my phone and resize tonight. I took my time and everything is going well.
The corner pockets are all faced and pretty. I used some info on the forums here, @LCCS said he dipped a 5" blade in soapy water to trim, that worked well. I dipped a utility knife in soapy water and trimmed the cushions close to size. 3/8" is kind of a pain to trim but I got it done. I used a file wrapped in 80 grit sandpaper (thanks @realkingcobra for suggesting that in your subrail post). I got them looking really nice. I decided to just put the pockets on to see how it looked. 4 3/8" looks pretty scary, but I assembled a corner and tried a few balls (no cloth) and it plays much more forgiving than 5" circus pockets. I was so annoyed by the crazy way the pockets rejected well hit balls that I had basically stopped practicing.
I did something dumb... I had a set of 1/4" facings also and thought it would be good to put them on the side pockets... bad idea, they look ridiculous. I plan on taking the 1/4" off tomorrow and putting 3/8" on. Luckily I had only finished one so no big deal. I might as well make the whole table equally scary. I didn't realize it, but it's pretty standard for sides to have an opening 1/2" larger than the corners.
I am going to have to assemble the rails and measure pocket openings to make sure they are the same, though they should be close as I only took off enough material on the facings to just get rid of any shiny rubber at the mouth of the pocket. I did notice that the angles are around a little over 141, though I set them to be 141. I'm guessing there is some play in my table saw, so I'll try to get them closer to 141 tomorrow.
The corner pockets are all faced and pretty. I used some info on the forums here, @LCCS said he dipped a 5" blade in soapy water to trim, that worked well. I dipped a utility knife in soapy water and trimmed the cushions close to size. 3/8" is kind of a pain to trim but I got it done. I used a file wrapped in 80 grit sandpaper (thanks @realkingcobra for suggesting that in your subrail post). I got them looking really nice. I decided to just put the pockets on to see how it looked. 4 3/8" looks pretty scary, but I assembled a corner and tried a few balls (no cloth) and it plays much more forgiving than 5" circus pockets. I was so annoyed by the crazy way the pockets rejected well hit balls that I had basically stopped practicing.
I did something dumb... I had a set of 1/4" facings also and thought it would be good to put them on the side pockets... bad idea, they look ridiculous. I plan on taking the 1/4" off tomorrow and putting 3/8" on. Luckily I had only finished one so no big deal. I might as well make the whole table equally scary. I didn't realize it, but it's pretty standard for sides to have an opening 1/2" larger than the corners.
I am going to have to assemble the rails and measure pocket openings to make sure they are the same, though they should be close as I only took off enough material on the facings to just get rid of any shiny rubber at the mouth of the pocket. I did notice that the angles are around a little over 141, though I set them to be 141. I'm guessing there is some play in my table saw, so I'll try to get them closer to 141 tomorrow.
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boogieman
It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
It's done! Here are some pics of the table. Ignore the fact that some of the facings have parts sticking out over the nose of the cushion when bare. I trimmed them to size more before putting cloth on. There are no sticky out pieces on the finished product. Also, I restretched the bed cloth, so it looks a little shabby. It was a real experience stretching 860HR again a year later with the pockets already cut. I removed everything except the finished side pocket on the anchor side and basically restretched following the simonis video, but with the added obstacles of already cut pockets and bolt holes etc. You basically have to feel the cloth and play the stretch, kind of one of those feel things like cutting with scissors with your mouth moving lol.
I'd like to thank everyone who helped with this project, I couldn't have done it without you guys! The table plays much better and you don't have to baby every shot for fear of the dreaded rattle. I'd say the pockets play slightly deader, but not to a terrible extent. Much better than any shot over medium speed that was well hit rattling out.
I'd like to thank everyone who helped with this project, I couldn't have done it without you guys! The table plays much better and you don't have to baby every shot for fear of the dreaded rattle. I'd say the pockets play slightly deader, but not to a terrible extent. Much better than any shot over medium speed that was well hit rattling out.
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boogieman
It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
142, I set the table saw for 141 but they all came out 142. I figured a degree over might make them play a touch tougher so I went with that. The main thing is that now they are all consistent!
So, how did the 3/16" facings work out, just as I told you?142, I set the table saw for 141 but they all came out 142. I figured a degree over might make them play a touch tougher so I went with that. The main thing is that now they are all consistent!
boogieman
It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
I ended up having to go with 3/8" to get a consistent angle between the facings since the rails were cut so bad. They seem to work very well, you will still miss a poorly shot shot, but there's no longer any circus table shenanigans going on with the pockets on a well hit shot. It feels nice to be able to let my stroke out above low-medium when I need to.
I'd imagine if this table had the rail angles cut somewhat correctly from the factory, the 3/16" would be a perfect fix. I never get that lucky, anytime I decide to touch a project, there's 3 other things wrong with it that I discover along the way!
I know you've seen stock Olhausen facings, and they are just downright shameful.I know this is amateur work, but I got a little chuckle on Friday night. A buddy's new girlfriend came over and was playing on the table. She said her brother and uncle are some of the big table mechanics in the area and she's never seen a table with pockets/rails that looked as good as these, and cloth as tight. She just kept going on about it and it just tickled me, I've seen some of the tables in the wild here and that's what pushed me to do my own table work. I don't know if they had anything to do with them, but I've seen new rails so wavy you can't bank on them, cloth folded over the point of sides, and tucked under the rail outside of the pocket opening and more.
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boogieman
It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
In case anyone else with a similar problem runs across this thread, the 3/8" 60A facings work fine. The pocket doesn't seem to have lost much liveliness, maybe just a touch, but not enough to be a consideration.
Nice work! The finished result looks great.
The above comments are exactly why I decided to install my own bed cloth, none of the tables that I looked at in our area done by local installers looked very good, if I think I can do a better job why pay someone to hack my table??
Be careful with that attitude... That's how I started in this business. Ha!
Im too busy out in my shop to think about taking on more projects.
I can see how it happens though, your own table turns out nice then a friend asks for help and you give it then a friend of a friend........................................next thing you know you're putting people on a 18 month long waiting list.
boogieman
It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
Just a little update to this thread. The table still plays great a year later. I had some hesitation with using thicker facings, but I will say it's caused no problems. They play great. You can even do the little 1P specialty shots with no weirdness on the points. It's been a real fun table and everyone likes it. The 4 3/8" pockets along with it being an 8.5' really make you pay attention and hit shots well. The better shooters that play here love this because it doesn't let anyone get away with getting lazy. The more casual shooters also love it because it makes for some hilarious misses.
I understand that this isn't going the more correct route of extending the subrails, but I'd do it again in a heartbeat! A little pocket work and the Olhausens can be great playing tables. Really great for people who are serious about pool but don't see any GC or Diamonds for sale near them.
I understand that this isn't going the more correct route of extending the subrails, but I'd do it again in a heartbeat! A little pocket work and the Olhausens can be great playing tables. Really great for people who are serious about pool but don't see any GC or Diamonds for sale near them.
G
Glad you took my advice
Ive got an olhausen at my local club house for my neighborhood with the rattle problem. I might give this a try if I ever get the time. Thanks for posting this.
I have the exact same problem with my 6 month old Olhausen. Two corners in particular. The leather edge of the pocket itself protrudes inside the pocket past the rail and creates an edge the the ball can hit. If a ball comes in towards the edge of the rail, it hits the edge of the leather pocket and is rejected. Very frustrating and completely denied by the vendor..
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