Olhausen rattle, is this a good fix?

boogieman

It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
I'm the one who posted the 3/16" facing change in the first place, YES it'll fix 90% of the ball rattle!!!!
Thanks! I appreciate your advice, I’m not gonna say this will be perfect but I’m guessing this piggy table will at least look prettier with lipstick!
 
Last edited:

boogieman

It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
Small update, I got all the staples out and the old facings off. I truly understand what mechanics say about furniture grade tables now. The table plays good (except for the pockets) but my oh my you can tell it was made fast by someone with little skill. The cushions ends where the facings go aren't all even with the subrail, it seems they thought barge cement made a good leveler. It's not bad per se, but it's definitely not the work of a cabinet maker. Rough rough rough. Get em out the door fast boys! This is somewhat surprising as olhausen isn't a bad table, but they really don't care much about fit and finish on the parts that matter.

The rails themselves play good and I don't see any looseness there, I'm thankful for that!

EDIT: Another small update, Got the Facings glued on and waiting for the glue to dry some more before I trim them up and get started on the angling/grinding process. I used the calibration disk/sand paper to lightly scuff the facings before installing, worked quite well without any mishaps. It seems the key (as said earlier in the thread) is to take your time and have a light touch. The sanding disk is working very well. I started reviewing the Simonis rail cloth DVD since it's been a while since I did them the first time. I also ended up ordering the bolts for connecting the pocket irons. When I bought the table one was missing and I used a hex head, not the end of the world, but I figured I may as well use correct hardware.
 
Last edited:

boogieman

It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
I have some pics but I will post them later, I'm just too lazy to get them off my phone and resize tonight. I took my time and everything is going well.

The corner pockets are all faced and pretty. I used some info on the forums here, @LCCS said he dipped a 5" blade in soapy water to trim, that worked well. I dipped a utility knife in soapy water and trimmed the cushions close to size. 3/8" is kind of a pain to trim but I got it done. I used a file wrapped in 80 grit sandpaper (thanks @realkingcobra for suggesting that in your subrail post). I got them looking really nice. I decided to just put the pockets on to see how it looked. 4 3/8" looks pretty scary, but I assembled a corner and tried a few balls (no cloth) and it plays much more forgiving than 5" circus pockets. I was so annoyed by the crazy way the pockets rejected well hit balls that I had basically stopped practicing.

I did something dumb... I had a set of 1/4" facings also and thought it would be good to put them on the side pockets... bad idea, they look ridiculous. I plan on taking the 1/4" off tomorrow and putting 3/8" on. Luckily I had only finished one so no big deal. I might as well make the whole table equally scary. I didn't realize it, but it's pretty standard for sides to have an opening 1/2" larger than the corners.

I am going to have to assemble the rails and measure pocket openings to make sure they are the same, though they should be close as I only took off enough material on the facings to just get rid of any shiny rubber at the mouth of the pocket. I did notice that the angles are around a little over 141, though I set them to be 141. I'm guessing there is some play in my table saw, so I'll try to get them closer to 141 tomorrow.
 
Last edited:

boogieman

It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
It's done! Here are some pics of the table. Ignore the fact that some of the facings have parts sticking out over the nose of the cushion when bare. I trimmed them to size more before putting cloth on. There are no sticky out pieces on the finished product. Also, I restretched the bed cloth, so it looks a little shabby. It was a real experience stretching 860HR again a year later with the pockets already cut. I removed everything except the finished side pocket on the anchor side and basically restretched following the simonis video, but with the added obstacles of already cut pockets and bolt holes etc. You basically have to feel the cloth and play the stretch, kind of one of those feel things like cutting with scissors with your mouth moving lol.

I'd like to thank everyone who helped with this project, I couldn't have done it without you guys! The table plays much better and you don't have to baby every shot for fear of the dreaded rattle. I'd say the pockets play slightly deader, but not to a terrible extent. Much better than any shot over medium speed that was well hit rattling out.
 
Last edited:

boogieman

It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
Before (P.S. don't let people use hand chalk):
one.PNG

AFTER: (It's tight but fair!)
Img_2742.png

Side pocket
Img_2742.jpg

Img_2738.png
Img_2734.png

During, look at how different the angles were to begin with!
Kzml7030.png
 

boogieman

It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
Looks good! What's the angle in the corners now?
142, I set the table saw for 141 but they all came out 142. I figured a degree over might make them play a touch tougher so I went with that. The main thing is that now they are all consistent! :)
 

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
142, I set the table saw for 141 but they all came out 142. I figured a degree over might make them play a touch tougher so I went with that. The main thing is that now they are all consistent! :)
So, how did the 3/16" facings work out, just as I told you?
 

boogieman

It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
So, how did the 3/16" facings work out, just as I told you?
I ended up having to go with 3/8" to get a consistent angle between the facings since the rails were cut so bad. They seem to work very well, you will still miss a poorly shot shot, but there's no longer any circus table shenanigans going on with the pockets on a well hit shot. It feels nice to be able to let my stroke out above low-medium when I need to.

I'd imagine if this table had the rail angles cut somewhat correctly from the factory, the 3/16" would be a perfect fix. I never get that lucky, anytime I decide to touch a project, there's 3 other things wrong with it that I discover along the way! 😂 I know you've seen stock Olhausen facings, and they are just downright shameful.

I know this is amateur work, but I got a little chuckle on Friday night. A buddy's new girlfriend came over and was playing on the table. She said her brother and uncle are some of the big table mechanics in the area and she's never seen a table with pockets/rails that looked as good as these, and cloth as tight. She just kept going on about it and it just tickled me, I've seen some of the tables in the wild here and that's what pushed me to do my own table work. I don't know if they had anything to do with them, but I've seen new rails so wavy you can't bank on them, cloth folded over the point of sides, and tucked under the rail outside of the pocket opening and more.
 
Last edited:

boogieman

It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
I've used 3/8" facings. Sometimes, it's difficult to source 3/8" thick 50A durometer neoprene. I usually try to find it on Amazon. You will need a 2" wide by 3' strip, for one table. 60A durometer will work, but it will slightly deaden the pocket. However, it's not extreme, and you may not even notice.

Keep in mind, the facing is being installed at a compound angle. The installed width does not equate to the thickness of the material. When installed, the facing will actually be wider than the material thickness. What that means, is that your pocket will likely be smaller than 4 5/8". However, since you are sanding anyway, you can sand the facings down to your desired pocket opening. Just make sure that you measure several times, to make sure that you aren't going to far with your sanding.

If you need additional information on the setup and fixturing, feel free to ask.

In case anyone else with a similar problem runs across this thread, the 3/8" 60A facings work fine. The pocket doesn't seem to have lost much liveliness, maybe just a touch, but not enough to be a consideration.
 

fastone371

Certifiable
Silver Member
I know this is amateur work, but I got a little chuckle on Friday night. A buddy's new girlfriend came over and was playing on the table. She said her brother and uncle are some of the big table mechanics in the area and she's never seen a table with pockets/rails that looked as good as these, and cloth as tight. She just kept going on about it and it just tickled me, I've seen some of the tables in the wild here and that's what pushed me to do my own table work. I don't know if they had anything to do with them, but I've seen new rails so wavy you can't bank on them, cloth folded over the point of sides, and tucked under the rail outside of the pocket opening and more.

The above comments are exactly why I decided to install my own bed cloth, none of the tables that I looked at in our area done by local installers looked very good, if I think I can do a better job why pay someone to hack my table??
 

fastone371

Certifiable
Silver Member
Be careful with that attitude... That's how I started in this business. Ha!
Im too busy out in my shop to think about taking on more projects. :) I can see how it happens though, your own table turns out nice then a friend asks for help and you give it then a friend of a friend........................................next thing you know you're putting people on a 18 month long waiting list.
 
Top