Ferrules

cueman said:
Does your invory ferrule have a pad on it between it and the tip? If not just put ivory back on it with the protector pad on it.
Click to expand...

Hello Cueman,

No I don’t use a pad. I have always been given the option of pad vs capped. As such I always selected capped so I didn’t dull the hit. I like the crisp hit i get with ivory. That’s really what I am trying to replace. That and the cleanliness of the ferrule.


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Ok simple misunderstanding then,all good.

In my exp with ivory on my playing shafts,I never once cracked one that was kept up right,meaning I didn't cut the pad off it,or shorten the 1/4 thick pad they were made with,and then didn't put a pad back on it.

With me anyway,weather care is a MUST with them. Don't take it in out of a cold car and start drawing your ball immediately. Either let it set for a few min before play or keep your warm hand wrapped around the ferrule until you can no longer feel a difference in temperature.

Wipe a little baby oil,or a soft carnauba wax on it if you plan on letting it set for weeks at a time.

The rule I was taught early on was don't leave your cues anyplace you wouldn't lay down and sleep for the same length of time. Tommy D.
 
ThinSlice said:
Hello Cueman,

No I don’t use a pad. I have always been given the option of pad vs capped. As such I always selected capped so I didn’t dull the hit. I like the crisp hit i get with ivory. That’s really what I am trying to replace. That and the cleanliness of the ferrule.


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Click to expand...
Yes keep capping the ferrule but add a fiber pad.
 
Tommy-D said:
Ok simple misunderstanding then,all good.

In my exp with ivory on my playing shafts,I never once cracked one that was kept up right,meaning I didn't cut the pad off it,or shorten the 1/4 thick pad they were made with,and then didn't put a pad back on it.

With me anyway,weather care is a MUST with them. Don't take it in out of a cold car and start drawing your ball immediately. Either let it set for a few min before play or keep your warm hand wrapped around the ferrule until you can no longer feel a difference in temperature.

Wipe a little baby oil,or a soft carnauba wax on it if you plan on letting it set for weeks at a time.

The rule I was taught early on was don't leave your cues anyplace you wouldn't lay down and sleep for the same length of time. Tommy D.
Click to expand...

I will try this. I do believe weather has a lot to do with it.


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ThinSlice said:
Serious question and hoping for some answers.

I have been playing on ivory ferrules for 40 years. I love the way they play and sound. However I am just tired of replacing them when they crack. Seems like today’s Ivory is not as strong as it once was. I could be wrong. What is the best overall ferrule rouse knowing I prefer Ivory?

Does anyone know what material Andy Gilbert uses? I like these also. They don’t shine up nearly as nice but they hit very well.


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Click to expand...
I have a JOSS 1973 ivory joint cue and all ivory ferrule shafts ( 11 shafts ). I asked Danny Janes about breaking with the cue when he made it for me ( most players broke with their playing cue in the 60's and 70's ). He said if you bring it in the room, put it together and let it get to room temperature ( about 20 mins ) I could break with it just fine. I never cracked the joint and never broke a ferrule. I still play with that cue today.
Try that and good luck
 
IMO... only thing that feels better then Ivory is Ferrule-less.... Ive been playing with no Ferrule for about 10 years now. Just a small pad between the tip and a non-laminated shaft.
 
I have a lot of cue shafts with ivory ferrules and I even break with them sometimes but not usually.
I prefer not breaking with my regular cue shafts not out of worry over damaging the ferrules. That’s
not happened in over 30 years. Ivory is pretty durable IMO and firsthand experience. I don’t because
I want to avoid flattening my cue tips that I persevere to keep in a nickel shape. Why would I want to go
pound the tip when I don’t do that with my normal stroke. It just makes more work to maintain the tip’s
contour and shape which also shortens the life expectancy of the tip but ivory ferrules aren’t a concern.
 
Bavafongoul said:
I have a lot of cue shafts with ivory ferrules and I even break with them sometimes but not usually.
I prefer not breaking with my regular cue shafts not out of worry over damaging the ferrules. That’s
not happened in over 30 years. Ivory is pretty durable IMO and firsthand experience. I don’t because
I want to avoid flattening my cue tips that I persevere to keep in a nickel shape. Why would I want to go
pound the tip when I don’t do that with my normal stroke. It just makes more work to maintain the tip’s
contour and shape which also shortens the life expectancy of the tip but ivory ferrules aren’t a concern.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you might be shooting with a soft tip.


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One thing kinda jumped past was the question of ivory quality. Just speculation here but with all of the hassles getting ivory I wonder if some "green" ivory might be getting into supply lines? Naturally dried ivory needs to be over twenty years old to use as a ferrule, over thirty might be better,

Also all ivory is not the best for ferrules, probably less than 10%. Bakelite was invented to save ivory and elephants. While it would seem that a set of sixteen balls could come from one elephant in reality only two or three balls could be made from one tusk. I would think this same quality of ivory is needed for a ferrule. Ivory ferrules have generally used pads going back many years.

Perhaps a synthetic without a pad may get very close to ivory with a pad. I don't know, just speculating. Lots of choices out there. Ivorine four plays OK for me but I am looking for a medium or bit crisper hit, I don't like either end of the spectrum.

Just guessing here but I suspect those getting ferrules from ball grade ivory and those getting ivory from other parts of the tusk have a good bit of difference in satisfaction with ivory. Elephants live in considerably different environments and that might affect the quality of the ivory too.

Just some ramblings, maybe food for thought. I would try to find a synthetic then buy three or four feet or a dozen ferrules, enough to last a lifetime. I think synthetic will be more consistent than ivory for the reasons listed above. Kept in climate control it will probably be stable for a lifetime too.

Hu
 
Man... Other then my first snooker cue that had a brass ferrule. I have had zero clue what material type the ferrules I've played with have been. Also have never had to replace a ferrule, ever...
 
The_JV said:
Man... Other then my first snooker cue that had a brass ferrule. I have had zero clue what material type the ferrules I've played with have been. Also have never had to replace a ferrule, ever...
Click to expand...


Some of the snooker cues are using titanium now. When I had my shop set up I was tempted to try high grade aluminum. Some of that stuff is so tough I have beaten directly on it with a sledge hammer! The ferrule or ferruleless designs with a pad or two on them can make a lot of difference in hit, something most don't recognize. I think I will go with black ferrules/vault plates in the future. I believe I am firmly in the carbon fiber camp now although I think the prices are inflated. I hope they come down to what I consider reasonable soon!

Hu
 
I did ask a question I never received an answer on. Does anyone know what material Andy Gilbert uses?


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