More beginner questions...

JoeyInCali​

If someone is extending the bottom of the cue and not threading that new tenon, he's just being lazy or is not equipped to do it
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Understanding that everyone here has varrying methods of joining cues/components together, i personally would tend to lean more toward threading vs not. I have done alot of mechanical work involving assembling components of various machinery/equipment, and i understand and appreciate the mechanical attatchment via threads. Its not so much that its a "better way" based on opinion, but matter of fact that two pieces have more than 2 (glue and surface area) methods to hold pieces together. With threads you have mechanical clamping (threads), surface and glue. Also might or might not (not fact only speculation) assist in hit of cue (not trying to open up can of worms) in terms of unbroken fiber of woods/energy transfer. For now though, instead of making some threaded some not, im still sketching out a threading jig so i can thread on my midamerica pro. narrowed down to 2 ideas. still prototyping and sketching to do. JoeyInCali and JC. :) Both helpful talking story to bounce ideas. not ideal, but dont have space for a sheldon or heavy 10 lol.

Agreed with sheldon, each method has its own quirks, if you are equipped to thread, doesnt necessarily mean itll be great if you dont have the knowledge (depth of cut, glues, speed to thread at especially with wood, fine details like not being able to see threads on the face aka JoeyInCali method- before anyone gets bent, im sure others have though of this, Joey was merely the first person i could think of and that i digitally stalk here). Similarly making a tenon (non threaded slip style) doesnt guarantee itll be great either (ex too much space between id and od, or to little space, wrong glue, etc etc.)

disclaimer: all of the above is my humble opinion, i am by no means an expert, constantly bombard members with questions and inquisitive ideas, but try to do my homework first and scour the threads. merely my understand of mechanical aspects and personal choices.
 
Sheldon said:
If you're equipped for threading, you're likely also equipped to glue a tenon properly. Both are going to require some experience and knowledge, regardless of equipment.
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Some toy lathes can't chuck 5/8 or 3/4.tap.
rack runner said:
Understanding that everyone here has varrying methods of joining cues/components together, i personally would tend to lean more toward threading vs not. I have done alot of mechanical work involving assembling components of various machinery/equipment, and i understand and appreciate the mechanical attatchment via threads. Its not so much that its a "better way" based on opinion, but matter of fact that two pieces have more than 2 (glue and surface area) methods to hold pieces together. With threads you have mechanical clamping (threads), surface and glue. Also might or might not (not fact only speculation) assist in hit of cue (not trying to open up can of worms) in terms of unbroken fiber of woods/energy transfer. For now though, instead of making some threaded some not, im still sketching out a threading jig so i can thread on my midamerica pro. narrowed down to 2 ideas. still prototyping and sketching to do. JoeyInCali and JC. :) Both helpful talking story to bounce ideas. not ideal, but dont have space for a sheldon or heavy 10 lol.

Agreed with sheldon, each method has its own quirks, if you are equipped to thread, doesnt necessarily mean itll be great if you dont have the knowledge (depth of cut, glues, speed to thread at especially with wood, fine details like not being able to see threads on the face aka JoeyInCali method- before anyone gets bent, im sure others have though of this, Joey was merely the first person i could think of and that i digitally stalk here). Similarly making a tenon (non threaded slip style) doesnt guarantee itll be great either (ex too much space between id and od, or to little space, wrong glue, etc etc.)

disclaimer: all of the above is my humble opinion, i am by no means an expert, constantly bombard members with questions and inquisitive ideas, but try to do my homework first and scour the threads. merely my understand of mechanical aspects and personal choices.
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This is easy.
Do some mock.ups.
One threaded and one floater.
Beat them up and see which one doesn't rattle after a while.
One famous cue maker argued he did not need to thread his caps and collars.
Now, he can't even service the ones that already failed . Too many of them I guess .
 
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Agreed Joey!

Yup. unfortunately im working on a toy (even i look at it and am like" this is a bit small") for now. I refuse to lean on that as a crutch though. My main thoughts are: solid construction method/ideas, setting pins nuts on (as much as practicable or possible), simple sporty players. Frills can come later...along with a bigger lathe.

and in regards to the stress tests. Using others exp[eriences to make me wiser, its exactly the reason, along with scientific proof that a mechanically bonded (threaded) will be stronger, that im trying to get my a$$ threading. lol

and
This is easy.
Do some mock.ups.
One threaded and one floater.
Beat them up and see which one doesn't rattle after a while.
One famous cue maker argued he did not need to thread his caps and collars.
Now, he can't even service the ones that already failed . Too many of them I guess .
Click to expand...

***again these are merely my opinions that others might or might not agree with...so dang P/C nowadays lol
 
Earlier there was a suggestion about cutting the handle section of an old cue. This should be done with the knowledge that there are often iron weight plugs buried in the handle. They are not weight bolts as we know them now, but have been inserted during the building of the handle and don't readily show up until you hit them with your cutting tool
Just sayin'
Gary
 
I have never threaded the tenon on any of my 300 cues......... never had a failure.................. I might do it on a break cue but not on a player............ simply not necessary

Kim
 
I took a house cue (ONLY once), cut and installed 5/16x18 pin and insert. The hacksaw width was the only amount of wood removed.
I added a brass washer in the joint to make it stand out as mine. Won nearly every local tourney with it. At that time I didn't have a lathe so I hand drilled the pin & insert. Wasn't perfect but but was REALLY close. Cranked it tight, it was straight. It's good to have good eyes & a little experience. (y)

Another semi-cheapo sneaky pete was a little on the short side for my liking so I asked someone to extend it by adding a 2 inch butt-cap. Looked a little strange with that much black... SO WHAT? IF i were worried about looks (which I'm not) I'd ask him to insert a few deco-rings.
Butt was now 31 inch with a 29 inch shaft. Balance changed a little but I got accustomed to it. Still won tourneys.

.
 
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Floyd_M said:
I took a house cue (ONLY once), cut and inserted 5/16x18 pin and insert. The hacksaw width was the only amount of wood removed.
I added a brass washer in the joint to make it stand out as mine. Won nearly every local tourney with it. At that time I didn't have a lathe so I hand drilled the pin & insert. Wasn't perfect but but was REALLY close. Cranked it tight, it was straight. It's good to have good eyes & a little experience. (y)

Another semi-cheapo sneaky pete was a little on the short side for my liking so I asked someone to extend it by adding a 2 inch butt-cap. Looked a little strange with that much black... SO WHAT? IF i were worried about looks (which I'm not) I'd ask him to insert a few deco-rings.
Butt was now 31 inch with a 29 inch shaft. Balance changed a little but I got accustomed to it. Still won tourneys.

.
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Nice Floyd-M, many things can be accomplished with balls to try and a little know-how.

understood that it is POSSIBLE to have things be functional and work, still possible to shoot straight etc etc etc. Understand and appreciate input and others experience. To address again that its not so much material being removed as it is to match certain dims, as stated in above convo. Aside from that, seems like this might be derailing to a different conversation on what is enough, what can be done with less than ideal equipment. yes its possible, and id never use equipment as a crutch. without going crazy and going down the rabbit hole, each piece of equipment has a purpose and serves to accomplish certain things (ex dial indicator measure runout, distance traveled, lathe spin work centered assuming bearings are tight- another rabbit hole there).

thank you all for input!
 
Floyd_M said:
I took a house cue (ONLY once), cut and inserted 5/16x18 pin and insert. The hacksaw width was the only amount of wood removed.
I added a brass washer in the joint to make it stand out as mine. Won nearly every local tourney with it. At that time I didn't have a lathe so I hand drilled the pin & insert. Wasn't perfect but but was REALLY close. Cranked it tight, it was straight. It's good to have good eyes & a little experience. (y)

Another semi-cheapo sneaky pete was a little on the short side for my liking so I asked someone to extend it by adding a 2 inch butt-cap. Looked a little strange with that much black... SO WHAT? IF i were worried about looks (which I'm not) I'd ask him to insert a few deco-rings.
Butt was now 31 inch with a 29 inch shaft. Balance changed a little but I got accustomed to it. Still won tourneys.

.
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I have lathes etc. but it's a hobby and I only work on my own stuff. I'm pretty sure I break every rule of good construction, but I like the junk I come up with. All depends on what your motives are.
 
One of the things to consider about threading a tenon is its not just about the mechanical attachment, its about the amount of glue surface. You are multiplying the amount of glue surface between the parts. So for example with a 3/4'' tenon an inch long and a coarse thread I would guess that you more than double your effective glue surface. So your 1" long tenon has the same glue surface area of a 2" long tenon. So relative to cue construction if you are talking about the butt sleeve tenon that is already 3" or so in length, it probably wont make much difference. You already have sufficient glue surface but in the case of a ferrule or an A joint I believe it is well worth the effort because those areas can always benefit from the added strength. The other big bonus of adding threads is they act like clamps so no tying up your lathe while waiting for your epoxy to set up. You can do all your assembly off the lathe. I like to build in batches to minimize set ups so I will often glue up multiple cues at the same time at various stages of the build and having to tie up a machine just to wait for the epoxy to set is a deal breaker.
 
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