WWYD 8 ball

For me, shooting the 10 first with soft draw .... using the 2
to leave position for the bottom two stripes in the bottom corner.
Especially if the 8 gets by the 5 in the bottom corner.
 
Straight line picked the proper shot, draw straight back to the two stripes, preferably hitting the one on the left.
Either you'll get perfect shape for the 2 or for the problem ball.

If not....you'll be so close to the 2 ball (parkin on either stripe) that shape from the 2 to your problem ball will be Easy to control with minimal cue ball speed.
Sky choose the wrong shot right outta the gate.
 
Last edited:
Wow...

3,2 to clear out the 9/12. The 1/7 are insurance balls for after the 2. It's always nice to know that my patterns align with the top pros...lol. If you get real nice on the 2 you may be able to run through and float back up for the 6 and avoid the gamble of clearing out the 9/12

The notion of risking this rack on a long bank 2 while praying for perfect draw to get on the 6 is most likely why I win the bulk of my 8 ball matches. Wildly careless when there's much higher percentages on the table.
 
Last edited:
Straight line picked the proper shot, draw straight back to the two stripes, preferably hitting the one on the left.
Either you'll get perfect shape for the 2 or for the problem ball.

If not....you'll be so close to the 2 ball (parkin on either stripe) that shape from the 2 to your problem ball will be Easy to control with minimal cue ball speed.
Sky chose the wrong shot right outta the gate.
This would be a more entertaining pattern. Very easy to hit that draw shot a tad thin and end up short side of the 2 (think slick cloth). Also very easy to hit the 9 first and end up below the 2. 2 first and you might push the 9 between the opposite corner and 6.
 
This would be a more entertaining pattern. Very easy to hit that draw shot a tad thin and end up short side of the 2 (think slick cloth). Also very easy to hit the 9 first and end up below the 2. 2 first and you might push the 9 between the opposite corner and 6.
I think if you are going that way, it's easier to hit the 7 and the 1 without too much thought, and then play of the 3 to leave a shot on the 2. No insurance balls though.
 
This would be a more entertaining pattern. Very easy to hit that draw shot a tad thin and end up short side of the 2 (think slick cloth). Also very easy to hit the 9 first and end up below the 2. 2 first and you might push the 9 between the opposite corner and 6.
I should stfu while I'm ahead but ay... Escape shots can be a leap of faith but this draw shot isn't even that risky. Matter of fact, I think the new cloth makes the draw billiard more likely to land properly than not. The alignment affords the shooter the opportunity to aim the cue ball and all but forget the object ball.
 
I would start draw shot from 4 and trying to hit split on 9-2. I think i have good chance to get 2 ball close to corner pocket(If I would get unlucky I should still have 3-ball as insurance). Then if 9-ball leaves 6-ball still available i would try get position to 6 from 2-ball(between 12-10). Rest should be easy.
 
I should stfu while I'm ahead but ay... Escape shots can be a leap of faith but this draw shot isn't even that risky. Matter of fact, I think the new cloth makes the draw billiard more likely to land properly than not. The alignment affords the shooter the opportunity to aim the cue ball and all but forget the object ball.
Fair enough... However one, even albeit relatively simple draw shot, is one trick shot too many when you can very easily roll the CB around the table in question.

I do enjoy these WWYD threads. Sheds a ton of light on the patterns people can dream up and the justification behind them.
 
Fair enough... However one, even albeit relatively simple draw shot, is one trick shot too many when you can very easily roll the CB around the table in question.

I do enjoy these WWYD threads. Sheds a ton of light on the patterns people can dream up and the justification behind them.

The reason for the dramatic shot first is working towards an elegant solution (easily rolling the cueball around) is like ice skating and worse, by the time you get to the actual issue, the 2 and the 6, there's no cover. It's do or die.
Someone suggested shooting the 2 directly. The camera angle doesn't show enough detail on that situation. It's unclear if cueball has room to clear the 9 and land comfortably in the window for the 6 and it does look like you have to give the 9 enough of a bump to bounce over and actually interfere with the 6.
 
The reason for the dramatic shot first is working towards an elegant solution (easily rolling the cueball around) is like ice skating and worse, by the time you get to the actual issue, the 2 and the 6, there's no cover. It's do or die.
Someone suggested shooting the 2 directly. The camera angle doesn't show enough detail on that situation. It's unclear if cueball has room to clear the 9 and land comfortably in the window for the 6 and it does look like you have to give the 9 enough of a bump to bounce over and actually interfere with the 6.
Why bother with the dramatic, and just start right off with the elegance...? Are we playing to win or to get a spot on a highligh reel...?

I suggested the 3 to the 2. That's no different then 7 to the 2 in terms of cover remaining. In fact you have more insurance with the 1/7 by shooting the 3 first. True, you have the 3 in the corner if you opt for the circus shot 7 to reach the 2. However the intent there is to bury the CB between the 2/9 down at the short rail which would take the 3 away for insurance. So what's left once you pot the 7 and get stupid attempting to get on the 2...? Possibly the 1...?

The 3 to the 2 provides angle to clear the 9/12, (which frees up the 6) or a strong possibility to roll through the 2 and get on the 6. There's all the problems cleared up ideally in 3 shots, with a definitive pattern and no "hold my beer" strategy. Either way, you know without question that you'll have a good shot on the 2 after the 3. Whether or not you clear out the pocket or roll through for the 6, boils down your personal level of CB.

To each their own. I'll just add that if my opponent decided to play the 7 with heavy draw on the hopes to free up the 2. I would consider it a win. He may end up getting out this time, but I would have a strong handle on his table IQ and how to bait him into situations.
 
3 to the 2 still doesn't account for how the 9 sits. The actual orientation is unclear and if you get outta line on the 6 you really have no choice but to use your free shots up table.

The idea with getting close to the 2 is so you have a foolproof way to the 6. And it's not a power draw thing. Hitting the 9 just stops the ball where it's needed. Once you make the six you have all the leeway left to roll 'em as you please.
 
3 to the 2 still doesn't account for how the 9 sits. The actual orientation is unclear and if you get outta line on the 6 you really have no choice but to use your free shots up table.
Sure it does... If you're high on the 2 a minor amount of stun puts the CB into the 9. If you lower you can roll through and possibly not even bother touching the 9 on the way back up for the 6. Lets say you go middle table off the 3 for some reason. You can still cut the 2 in, come off the short rail and knock the 9 into the 12, clearing them both. However that's a bad choice considering the other two options.
The idea with getting close to the 2 is so you have a foolproof way to the 6. And it's not a power draw thing. Hitting the 9 just stops the ball where it's needed. Once you make the six you have all the leeway left to roll 'em as you please.
That's the comical thing. You think you have a foolproof way the 6 but you really have no clue how the CB or 2 is going to end up. IF you hit the 9 clean in the face you end up like you say, (I highlighted the key word). Odds are that's not going to happen and you're playing a shot that's going to manlipulate the 2 when you don't have to. This is pool 101. Don't moves balls around when you don't have to. As the 2 ball lays, you don't need to move it, and you can roll for shape to the 6 by just potting it if you're on the left side of the table.

We're going to have to agree to disagree on this one.
 
I looked this up. Sky shot the 3,2,5 left himself hooked on the 6 &7 and made 2 jumps and a carom to finish the rack.
Link to video...?

Nvm, I found it. Linked to the rack in question. At the beginning where Skylar under hit the first shot trying to get on the 2. Then (imo) over hit the 3 and was forced to try and control the CB with the 9. Which he over hit.
 
Last edited:
I don't play much 8 ball but I'd cut the 10 running into the 12 and 9 to break them out with insurance balls available.
 
Back
Top