Agree. I love my Jensen but its an old-school 'squirt machine' and i can't go from my LD Mezz back to it without BIG corrections.
Low deflection shaft back to old maple shaft
- Thread starter Darkside7
- Start date
As it turns out, I used “willy nilly” intentionally and accurately. For example, you can use inside “whether you like it or not” and accidentally (“without planning or order”). The low deflection shafts accept so much inconsistency you can shoot with inside “Willy nilly”. You can also shoot with inside on purpose (“concentrating” as you called it) and still mis-hit the inside and have good results. That is “when you don’t want it to happen.” The low deflection shafts have so much forgiveness, you can shoot with inside haphazardly and still have good results. Again, you can use inside English willy nilly with one of the low deflection shafts. (Edit: the sweet spot is so good you can shoot anything willy nilly. It’s great for inconsistent players)
It appears like the use the definition did not contemplate the actual application of the word and was lost in your desire to be pedantic. Pedantic means giving too much attention to details or correcting small errors in an an annoying way. (See what I did there).
In all seriousness, low deflection is much better. Willy nilly or not.
-td
soyale
Well-known member
i used to play with a wood-wood jointed maple tree trunk and now i play with a stainless steel low deflection noodle and i can confidently say with absolute certainty that i miss hangers with both.
for real though the only time i really notice is on long slow shots with lots of spin. if i pick up a bar cue i will almost always hit those shots wrong for a while until i can readjust my squirt calculations
edit: ob1+
for real though the only time i really notice is on long slow shots with lots of spin. if i pick up a bar cue i will almost always hit those shots wrong for a while until i can readjust my squirt calculations
edit: ob1+
did the same, back to my regular Joss shaft
Deflection takes a while to learn to adjust for. It will take at least a month of solid play 20 hours a week to get comfortable with an LD shaft, or vice versa. Some people have not taken the time, decide LD is not for them after a few minutes or hours and stick with using the old shaft. Some take the time and still don't like it as much as adjusting for spin more and keep using their old shaft. There is nothing really "wrong" with swapping or not, it's not like there is a tournament where you must play with an LD shaft only or some billiards club for old school cues only LOL
You are only trying to justify and defend your misunderstanding of the term Willy Nilly when you write you meant to.As it turns out, I used “willy nilly” intentionally and accurately. For example, you can use inside “whether you like it or not” and accidentally (“without planning or order”). The low deflection shafts accept so much inconsistency you can shoot with inside “Willy nilly”. You can also shoot with inside on purpose (“concentrating” as you called it) and still mis-hit the inside and have good results. That is “when you don’t want it to happen.” The low deflection shafts have so much forgiveness, you can shoot with inside haphazardly and still have good results. Again, you can use inside English willy nilly with one of the low deflection shafts. (Edit: the sweet spot is so good you can shoot anything willy nilly. It’s great for inconsistent players)
It appears like the use the definition did not contemplate the actual application of the word and was lost in your desire to be pedantic. Pedantic means giving too much attention to details or correcting small errors in an an annoying way. (See what I did there).
In all seriousness, low deflection is much better. Willy nilly or not.
-td
It comes across more akin to embarrassment but it doesn’t matter because it is unrelated to the topic of CF shafts.
So there is a thing with LD shafts, they are dependent more on a straight stroke when changing to them, and I have found that some players that shoot worse with LD shafts do so not because they can't adjust for deflection but rather their stroke moves to the side. Here is why, say you play for 10 years with a standard shaft, and you hit always to the right of center when you think you are hitting center or you have a arm motion that moved the tip to the side. That deflects the cue a certain amount, all the time when you shoot. You put that into your learning to play databank and don't think about it since you just simply aim more left to adjust for the deflection and don't think about it. Now you move to an LD shaft. When you hit the normal stroke to the right of center, the cue ball goes straighter. But because you don't realize you are not getting a full center hit or swipe across on the cueball when hitting it, you now have no idea how to adjust for that extra deflection, so the aim suffers. Go back to a normal shaft, do the same subconscious aiming that you learned over the years and balls go in again. What some players need to do is to not only adjust less for spin due to how much less the shaft deflects but also look over their stroke and then adjust for that as well when aiming at a contact point.
It's a bit like someone having a pain in their foot, so they buy 3 new high end sneakers and they all seem to have the same thing. Then they get home and realize the issue was the rock was inside their sock not in the shoe. So someone has issues aiming with a specific shaft, they try other shafts, etc.. but don't realize that the reason they miss is not due to the shaft but rather how they learned to aim over the years to adjust for tiny flaws or motions in their stroke. This is why I never ever say one shaft is "better" than another, only that it may be better for that specific person since everyone has a different ideal situation that mixes the shaft performance to their aim and stoke mechanics.
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tomatoshooter
Well-known member
And many custom actions are derived from the 700.
The reason some people have difficulty switching to LD shafts is more about the pivot point shift than anything else.. Why do you think traditional stroke techniques suggest an 8-10 inch bridge? Whether consciously intended or not, it was because most standard maple shafts and cues have a pivot point at 8-10 inches.
If you switch to LD tech and don't understand the pivot point and BHE, if you have ANY stroke flaws at all, they will be maximized.
You will notice that the average bridge length since LD tech has come out, has lengthened considerably. That's because the pivot point has shifted on shafts due to the LD tech.
This applies whether you USE BHE or not, because even if you have stroke flaws, you are MUCH more likely to not miss shots if you bridge at the cue's natural pivot point.
Jaden
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I went LD and chose the Jacoby Hybrid ( out of production model) but they play good. Recently I acquired and old OB original that also plays well.
I have several friends who went carbon fiber and they switched back.
I tried to go back to regular maple and it was difficult.
The Z2,3 I can't make a ball with and won't play with them under any circumstances.
The Low deflection thing is a great deal about feel. If it the shaft doesn't feel well to you, its going to take longer to get used to it.
The closest to maple feel so far for me is OB original. I am looking to start picking up some OB-1's and 2's which are also out of production
and cheaper now.
Few people go back to maple if the shaft feels good.
You had a chance to see the total offerings of the LD shafts. I liked the original 314's. I'm considering the same thing you did but I do like the hit
of the original OB with the wooden ferrule a lot.
I'm with you on that one! I love the OB1+.
WORD OF ADVICE....
Dont let the edge of the tip get too thin. Even with the fiber pad properly installed. OB does NOT make the wood ferrule anymore due to costs. Take good care of it.
WORD OF ADVICE....
Dont let the edge of the tip get too thin. Even with the fiber pad properly installed. OB does NOT make the wood ferrule anymore due to costs. Take good care of it.
soyale
Well-known member
thanks for the warning. i was actually looking at my tip yesterday wondering if i was getting close. what are your thoughts?
I've been playing with standard maple shafts for 63 years and I see no reason to switch now.
And still using solid tips and Masters chalk.
And still using solid tips and Masters chalk.
Yep, my cueball control isn't that great. So, it's easy to apply unintentional spin.
FWIW, picked up a Kersenbrock and Franklin era SW shaft for less than the price of a new LD carbon fiber shaft.
Yeah, the advantages of LD shafts are greatly reduced, and only fractional to begin with, once you introduce and understand the concept of BHE and the cues pivot point.
The only REAL advantage is that you aren't having to compensate for squirt as much, which means you'll be closer to the original aimline.
This can be slightly advantageous for people who are feel only players, but only marginally so, and it's only advantage for BHE players is dependent on what you individually feel most comfortable doing for your stroke and can actually be a disadvantage because holding the cue closer to the tip gives the stroke more stability.
It's biggest advantage, that being LD tech, is the confidence boost it gives some players who like being closer to the original, non-adjusted aimline.
Jaden
I would go ahead and change it. I sent you a PM