Glue weight bolt ?

Tommy-D said:
> I had NO luck using every method I had available to me. Whatever epoxy they used was the dead nuts. I want some to eventually use for joint pin and A joint construction. Tommy D.
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This is a way to get it out immaterial what glue was used. Use a large center drill and drill deep enough so that a 1/4" drill bits flutes will not catch non the screw driver slot. You then take a drill bit slightly smaller in size than a 1/4" and drill about 2" deep. You now take a 1/4" drill and drill about 1.5" deep. Now take your 1/4" drill bit and reverse it in your tail stock chuck so that it's shaft enters the now drilled hole instead of the flutes. Now, with the tail stock not clamped to your bed so that it can freely slide, put your lathe in reverse and put hand pressure against the back of the tail stock forcing the bit as far forward into the counter sunk hole as it will go. Hold this pressure and watch the drill bit. When the friction between the bit and the body of the bolt turns the bit cherry red release the hand pressure. This action will melt the glue and let both the drill bit and the bolt friction weld themselves together and the lathe being in reverse will just screw the bolt right out.
I've done this a number of times on joint pins when I'm afraid to much heat might damage the joint or finish.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
This is a way to get it out immaterial what glue was used. Use a large center drill and drill deep enough so that a 1/4" drill bits flutes will not catch non the screw driver slot. You then take a drill bit slightly smaller in size than a 1/4" and drill about 2" deep. You now take a 1/4" drill and drill about 1.5" deep. Now take your 1/4" drill bit and reverse it in your tail stock chuck so that it's shaft enters the now drilled hole instead of the flutes. Now, with the tail stock not clamped to your bed so that it can freely slide, put your lathe in reverse and put hand pressure against the back of the tail stock forcing the bit as far forward into the counter sunk hole as it will go. Hold this pressure and watch the drill bit. When the friction between the bit and the body of the bolt turns the bit cherry red release the hand pressure. This action will melt the glue and let both the drill bit and the bolt friction weld themselves together and the lathe being in reverse will just screw the bolt right out.
I've done this a number of times on joint pins when I'm afraid to much heat might damage the joint or finish.

Dick
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g morning dickie
i talked with tommy on phone yesterday
told him exactly a you just did
but he doesnt have a lathe with big enough bore to hold the cue

so then we moved onto plan B
he did tell me he had a way to support the cue, in a vise or something
insert blade of screwdriver in slot,
heat up the screwdriver with torch to transfer the heat to bolt
he called back to say it didnt work, it wouldnt bust loose
 
My caps are usually sleeved over a wood core, and don't always use them unless I have to, but I have never really needed to glue bolts, and I have yet to pick up a rattle or need to tighten them. I guess eventually It may happen, but Even If It did It's just a simple matter of popping the plug style bumper out and tightening It with a large t-handled hex wrench. Anyone could do It with the correct tool, although with most cues, the shorter the weight bolt the less threads, therefore the more careful You have to be not to over torque.

Side note, Thanks for the Pics Mike, I've seen My share of fun, but have yet to get into the back of one of those cues. It's nice to know what nightmare awaits before jumping on one.
 
BHQ said:
g morning dickie
i talked with tommy on phone yesterday
told him exactly a you just did
but he doesnt have a lathe with big enough bore to hold the cue

so then we moved onto plan B
he did tell me he had a way to support the cue, in a vise or something
insert blade of screwdriver in slot,
heat up the screwdriver with torch to transfer the heat to bolt
he called back to say it didnt work, it wouldnt bust loose
Click to expand...

Howdy Brent! I would say that he needs to see a mechanic in that case. There are many things that are easily repaired but the correct equipment is needed or else much more severe damage may occur.
I have a large flat headed screw driver that I cut the shank off of about 4 inch long. I put this in the tail stock chuck on difficult to remove slotted bolts. I put the slot into the bolt head and with pressure on the tail stock, which prevents the screw driver from canting out of the slot, I can rock the spindle on the lathe back and forth and often this will crack the bolt loose but, once again you must have a lathe with sufficient spindle capacity to put the cue into.

Dick
 
BHQ said:
g morning dickie
i talked with tommy on phone yesterday
told him exactly a you just did
but he doesnt have a lathe with big enough bore to hold the cue

so then we moved onto plan B
he did tell me he had a way to support the cue, in a vise or something
insert blade of screwdriver in slot,
heat up the screwdriver with torch to transfer the heat to bolt
he called back to say it didnt work, it wouldnt bust loose
Click to expand...


It would be easier to drill a larger hole in the bolt, add an easy out and heat that up, the heat would transfer better. Just curious, is there anyone here who doesn't know what an easy is? Dick, I know you know.
 
If you do glue it in… I used a soldering iron to heat up the bolt to get it out of a Huebler..WITHOUT HEAT FAT CHANCE IT WILL COME OUT….I’m just sayin’✌️
 
David Sorensen said:
If you do glue it in… I used a soldering iron to heat up the bolt to get it out of a Huebler..WITHOUT HEAT FAT CHANCE IT WILL COME OUT….I’m just sayin’✌️
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Seeing you brought this thread back to life.
Here's the breakdown of Heublers system.
 

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Michael Webb said:
Seeing you brought this thread back to life.
Here's the breakdown of Heublers system.
Click to expand...
Thank you for this Mr. Webb. I've done several joints on Heublers but have never been into a weight bolt. Would have never guessed that's what I'd find lurking in there. Really appreciate you sharing your "black book" with us. I have learned much from you over the years and it is very generous of you to share your (almost infinite) cue knowledge with the forum.

I could see a simple weight bolt change going sideways without what you just shared. Thanks again!
 
Michael Webb said:
Hopefully no one on this forum will do what Mr. Huebler did. His butt caps are threaded onto an aluminum, hollow lamp post screw, then he added the regular weight bolt and glued it, Let me tell you it's a real pain in the azz. I have not worked on one yet that wasn't like this.

Enjoy and remember to be careful, the butt cap is soft so if you think about pouring lacquer thinner in there to break the bond, you won't be happy wh
Click to expand...

Michael Webb said:
Hopefully no one on this forum will do what Mr. Huebler did. His butt caps are threaded onto an aluminum, hollow lamp post screw, then he added the regular weight bolt and glued it, Let me tell you it's a real pain in the azz. I have not worked on one yet that wasn't like this.

Enjoy and remember to be careful, the butt cap is soft so if you think about pouring lacquer thinner in there to break the bond, you won't be happy when it melts.

IMG_1029.jpg
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The very reason I tend to avoid Huebler cues. If you make a cue with a weight and glue it in, you are A Jackass in my opinion. A touch of whatever whatever to make you feel good is okay and maybe cheap insurance. Good quality threads and proper torque will do just fine.
The first time I encountered that ridicules Huebler mess I could not believe it was original and not just a cobbled repair.
 
Howdy All;

When an aircraft mechanic we had to use various "systems' to make sure things didn't
come apart in flight. Loctite was a major player. Here's a link that separates the good
one from the the monster.
www.loctiteproducts.com

Threadlocker: Red or blue, which one’s right for you?

New to threadlockers? Everything you need to know about types,& application and removal.
www.loctiteproducts.com www.loctiteproducts.com

They also make a purple and a green Loctite but you may have to communicate with Henkel Corp. to find them.
I've also used Nail polish for some light weight 'stuff'. chucklin'

hank
 
I found a dab of silicone keeps the bolt quiet and in place. It's easy to break free if needed later down the road. I also use it for butt extension receivers that thread into existing weight bolt holes.
 
TheBasics said:
Howdy All;

When an aircraft mechanic we had to use various "systems' to make sure things didn't
come apart in flight. Loctite was a major player. Here's a link that separates the good
one from the the monster.
www.loctiteproducts.com

Threadlocker: Red or blue, which one’s right for you?

New to threadlockers? Everything you need to know about types,& application and removal.
www.loctiteproducts.com www.loctiteproducts.com

They also make a purple and a green Loctite but you may have to communicate with Henkel Corp. to find them.
I've also used Nail polish for some light weight 'stuff'. chucklin'

hank
Click to expand...

Pink (purple) loctite is easy to find. It is for small fasteners.

Green loctite is for slip fit dowel pins. Don't ever use it unless you never want to disassemble or use a decent amount of heat before disassembly.

The question is whether it actually does anything when wood is one side of the joint. The presence of metal is what makes loctite cure, along with the absence of air. I've never tried it because it is not the correct application for loctite. Rubber cement would likely work much better.
 
Michael Webb said:
It would be easier to drill a larger hole in the bolt, add an easy out and heat that up, the heat would transfer better. Just curious, is there anyone here who doesn't know what an easy is? Dick, I know you know.
Click to expand...
Does that easy out ever lose temper and stretch or twist off from the heat
 
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I use various length of 1/2-13 grub (set) screws. I buy them in bulk by the bag. They are designed to lock against one another. I've never seen one come loose. It's easy to fine tune the total weight. Small changes to the cue balance can be made by altering the depth.
 
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