[broken record alert]
Same thing here again it seems. I think my wording of "if the compensation changes (which I thought everyone knows happens when a backhand english user changes bridge length) then the amount of squirt you end up getting" comes with the automatic implication of "in relation to/deviation from the intended shot line" and is therefore correct, but it would have been better had I just included the additional wording rather than relying on the implication. Edited post #10 again, double check me and see if I missed anything else that has any ambiguity.
What was your thought behind having a 14mm shaft made..?
Damn.... Earl and Gulyassy's honeymoon was over during TAR 2. Did they get back together?
I grew up in a pool hall and played with all diameters of shafts.
Thanks for the info, personally I would have assumed that the thicker shaft is more forgiving towards mishits on the cueball?
When you miscue, you usually have hit the cue ball too far out on the edge with the edge of your tip. More than likely without enough chalk.
Large diameter shafts are more forgiving of stroke errors and can help with that.
Intuitively reasoned the fat tip covered such a (seemingly) big area that a couple millimeters give or take wouldn't matter. Never checked that or gave it much thought. I was able to bang out threes on the fly though. All dead outs. This is with the ball spinning like a top on straight ins too.
Easy to see how it seems true (lots of players believe it), but larger doesn’t actually help. Flatter can be a tiny bit more forgiving...
No. Pivoting left or right from your bridge at the pivot point is an aiming adjustment which counteracts the deflection of your shaft. For instance, if you pivot the tip to the right, you are aiming more to the right (v. if you parallel shift the whole cue to the right), and because the cue ball will deflect to the left, aiming more to the right will counteract the deflection. The pivot point is where the aiming adjustment is exactly equal to the net deflection (squirt - swerve). I'm not quite up to speed on the particulars of the pivot point, but the harder you hit the cue ball, the less swerve there is, which results in more net deflection, which means the pivot point must change based on the speed of your shot.**
If you mean, what happens when you increase your bridge length, the answer is: the aiming adjustment is less for the same tip position on the cue ball, i.e. the angle into the cue ball is smaller, which means the aiming adjustment is not enough to compensate for all of the net deflection. As your bridge length gets shorter, in order to pivot your cue to the desired tip position, you have to move the butt of the cue more.
It's also the point on your shaft/cue that's directly over the centerball aim line when angled (pivoted around that point) correctly for the shot's squirt. The distance from the tip to the pivot point is the cue's pivot length. The amount of squirt produced (ignoring swerve) is equal to the amount of tip offset on the CB for each pivot length of CB travel - so 1/2" of side spin with a 12" pivot length produces 1/2" of squirt per 12" of travel, etc.
Flatter it was too. Memory is domed but quarter radiused. lol.
I was referring more to stroke errors as Mensabum has pointed out.
Thanks, thats what I was suspecting, I mean if you have a shaft the width of the cueball, you won't have any deflection, wanted or unwanted
Sounds like you've got a natural dip in your forward stroke. That's why you get the spin on straight ins. You're not hitting straight in the CB. Just a guess, but try decelerating a bit on the forward stroke. Go slower and concentrate on keeping that pendulum as straight as you possibly can. Takes work, but it can be done.Intuitively reasoned the fat tip covered such a (seemingly) big area that a couple millimeters give or take wouldn't matter. Never checked that or gave it much thought. I was able to bang out threes on the fly though. All dead outs. This is with the ball spinning like a top on straight ins too.