Constant Tip Shaping is annoying!

Bob Jewett said:
What did it seem to help?
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That was really just me guessing and presuming what was supposed to happen from using an ideal setup.

iusedtoberich said:
wtf is this? You're always posting about the latest and greatest CF shafts. Is this what you actually play with?
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No. I put that Time Crystal originally on my Rhino, but it came off. Its beyond me to put it back on to fit good. So, I put it on this 9mm CueSoul snooker cue that is, with an extension, 63". Useful sometimes when needing a bridge on a 9-foot table.

I play with a 10.5mm Rhino and my backup is a Cynergy (Viper or Players butts).
 
Bob Jewett said:
Once the tip is shaped after install you should mostly leave it alone, other than chalking.
  1. Chalk in a way that gets a smooth, thin layer all over the tip
  2. Rough the tip gently if it does not hold chalk because it has gotten shiny. Do not remove leather.
  3. Remove mushrooming if it is more than half a mm.
I almost never remove leather from my tip after the initial install. My tip keeps the shape it wants to have from chalking and play. That shape is fine -- I do not work against it.

About chalking: If you are one of those people who drills a hole into the chalk, you don't know how to chalk. Sorry, you are as stupid as a stump when it comes to chalking. If you ever bothered to look at your tip after you do that, you would see that you do a lousy job. Stop being a member of the Borer Tribe. If you check out the chalk box at the pool hall, you will see evidence that the Borers are all around you. Do not be like them.
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This is really good advice.

If you have a decent tip you should not be fiddling with it except perhaps to trim some mushrooming. Please, don't use the thingie with the fork prongs that smooshes it skinny with twirling -- your tip is only going to immediately spread again.)

At the PR I see so many guys grinding away at their tips, just wasting leather. Sometimes they do the fire-starter thing with the glass encrusted cube, turning their cues upside down and twirling away as if to create an ember.

So sad.

Lou Figueroa
 
lfigueroa said:
This is really good advice.

If you have a decent tip you should not be fiddling with it except perhaps to trim some mushrooming. Please, don't use the thingie with the fork prongs that smooshes it skinny with twirling -- your tip is only going to immediately spread again.)

At the PR I see so many guys grinding away at their tips, just wasting leather. Sometimes they do the fire-starter thing with the glass encrusted cube, turning their cues upside down and twirling away as if to create an ember.

So sad.

Lou Figueroa
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I second "don't use the thingie with the fork prongs".
 
cueball2010 said:
All I want to do is take my cue out, tap it a little, and play!

I have the Willard's shaper and every single time I get ready to play or practice, I use the curvature gauge part to check the shape. Every single time I have to take a little bit off the sides because the whole tip has flattened out from the day before.

My medium layered tip only started holding its shape perfectly once I was down to about 2 layers on the side walls. Soon after I had to change the whole tip because I don't think the tip side walls should be less than the thickness of a penny. Because of this shape issue I opted for a harder tip or a Triangle tip. But its the same issue... I am more then half way through this tip and it still loses the nickel shape after every pool session.

Questions:
  • Is it compressing in the middle because most shoots are center ball or near center? If so, is this normal for hard tips like Triangle?
  • Is the the chalk actually wearing away the leather towards the center of the tip?
  • Is the chalk getting under the leather fibers and expanding the parts of tip that don't take as much pounding?
  • Will burnishing the sides of the tip every other day eventually stop the flattening of the tip?
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Hey Cueball,
Switch to a hard tip bro!!👊🏻
 
cueball2010 said:
All I want to do is take my cue out, tap it a little, and play!

I have the Willard's shaper and every single time I get ready to play or practice, I use the curvature gauge part to check the shape. Every single time I have to take a little bit off the sides because the whole tip has flattened out from the day before.

My medium layered tip only started holding its shape perfectly once I was down to about 2 layers on the side walls. Soon after I had to change the whole tip because I don't think the tip side walls should be less than the thickness of a penny. Because of this shape issue I opted for a harder tip or a Triangle tip. But its the same issue... I am more then half way through this tip and it still loses the nickel shape after every pool session.

Questions:
  • Is it compressing in the middle because most shoots are center ball or near center? If so, is this normal for hard tips like Triangle?
  • Is the the chalk actually wearing away the leather towards the center of the tip?
  • Is the chalk getting under the leather fibers and expanding the parts of tip that don't take as much pounding?
  • Will burnishing the sides of the tip every other day eventually stop the flattening of the tip?
Click to expand...
I never heard of a tip losing its shape in one day...must be a bad one...a harder tip should keep their shape better...
 
Little Al Romero used to leave a small bare spot in the middle of tip that he never roughed up. He said it played better that way. And then there's Rafael Martinez. He played with a tip worn down to the nub, barely anything there, just a little bump at the end of his ferrule. And he could make any shot with that tip! Two very good players with unique perspectives on proper tips.

In my day all the house cues (and many players cues) used Elkmaster tips. They would last through a year of hard play if not abused. I would play with my tip until it wore down to the ferrule and then I would put a new one on. I carried my tip tapper (or Brad scuffer) everywhere and could do a quick make-up job on a house cue tip if necessary.

The Champion tips were a luxury item and to be coveted. They were made from water buffalo hides and had the best leather of any tip made back then. Probably still as good as anything out there. If I could find a box (of 24) I would sell them for $5 each, after buying the box for maybe $25. I had some good sources back then. ;)
 
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Bob Jewett said:
Once the tip is shaped after install you should mostly leave it alone, other than chalking.
  1. Chalk in a way that gets a smooth, thin layer all over the tip
  2. Rough the tip gently if it does not hold chalk because it has gotten shiny. Do not remove leather.
  3. Remove mushrooming if it is more than half a mm.
I almost never remove leather from my tip after the initial install. My tip keeps the shape it wants to have from chalking and play. That shape is fine -- I do not work against it.

About chalking: If you are one of those people who drills a hole into the chalk, you don't know how to chalk. Sorry, you are as stupid as a stump when it comes to chalking. If you ever bothered to look at your tip after you do that, you would see that you do a lousy job. Stop being a member of the Borer Tribe. If you check out the chalk box at the pool hall, you will see evidence that the Borers are all around you. Do not be like them.
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Mr Jewett, there are many people on this forum who ridicule, or call those who ask questions, names and/or question their intelligence. I am surprised that a person of your qualifications would be one of them. Further along in this article, you asked a poster the question "what good did it do"? That's what I ask you. So many of the questions are juvenile and seemingly, ignorant. However, some of the greatest players in this sport possess and frequently display these qualifications. A PHD is valuable to understand the physics involved but gifted talent is all it takes to be a champion. Over the years I have read your comments with great interest, because I feel certain you know the correct answer. I will continue to read them, but I now know better than to ask a question.
 
Doug said:
Mr Jewett, there are many people on this forum who ridicule, or call those who ask questions, names and/or question their intelligence. I am surprised that a person of your qualifications would be one of them. Further along in this article, you asked a poster the question "what good did it do"? That's what I ask you. So many of the questions are juvenile and seemingly, ignorant. However, some of the greatest players in this sport possess and frequently display these qualifications. A PHD is valuable to understand the physics involved but gifted talent is all it takes to be a champion. Over the years I have read your comments with great interest, because I feel certain you know the correct answer. I will continue to read them, but I now know better than to ask a question.
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Relax, my boy, the only stupid question is the one that goes unasked...
 
Doug said:
Mr Jewett, there are many people on this forum who ridicule, or call those who ask questions, names and/or question their intelligence. I am surprised that a person of your qualifications would be one of them. Further along in this article, you asked a poster the question "what good did it do"? That's what I ask you. So many of the questions are juvenile and seemingly, ignorant. However, some of the greatest players in this sport possess and frequently display these qualifications. A PHD is valuable to understand the physics involved but gifted talent is all it takes to be a champion. Over the years I have read your comments with great interest, because I feel certain you know the correct answer. I will continue to read them, but I now know better than to ask a question.
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the "you" in his post wasn't directed at anyone in particular, it was a general statement about bore chalkers.

there's definitely a fatigue in the subject tip/chalk and most posters in this thread show more patience than i could ever muster
 
I've played with a medium moori for about 30 years now, not the same one obviously. I have tried several different tips over the years, some got cut off almost immediately some maybe a couple of weeks. I always ended up with a medium moori because of consistency and very little maintenance.
 
Bob Jewett said:
Once the tip is shaped after install you should mostly leave it alone, other than chalking.
  1. Chalk in a way that gets a smooth, thin layer all over the tip
  2. Rough the tip gently if it does not hold chalk because it has gotten shiny. Do not remove leather.
  3. Remove mushrooming if it is more than half a mm.
I almost never remove leather from my tip after the initial install. My tip keeps the shape it wants to have from chalking and play. That shape is fine -- I do not work against it.

About chalking: If you are one of those people who drills a hole into the chalk, you don't know how to chalk. Sorry, you are as stupid as a stump when it comes to chalking. If you ever bothered to look at your tip after you do that, you would see that you do a lousy job. Stop being a member of the Borer Tribe. If you check out the chalk box at the pool hall, you will see evidence that the Borers are all around you. Do not be like them.
Click to expand...


Bob is right, Bob is right.
 
cueball2010 said:
All I want to do is take my cue out, tap it a little, and play!

I have the Willard's shaper and every single time I get ready to play or practice, I use the curvature gauge part to check the shape. Every single time I have to take a little bit off the sides because the whole tip has flattened out from the day before.

My medium layered tip only started holding its shape perfectly once I was down to about 2 layers on the side walls. Soon after I had to change the whole tip because I don't think the tip side walls should be less than the thickness of a penny. Because of this shape issue I opted for a harder tip or a Triangle tip. But its the same issue... I am more then half way through this tip and it still loses the nickel shape after every pool session.

Questions:
  • Is it compressing in the middle because most shoots are center ball or near center? If so, is this normal for hard tips like Triangle?
  • Is the the chalk actually wearing away the leather towards the center of the tip?
  • Is the chalk getting under the leather fibers and expanding the parts of tip that don't take as much pounding?
  • Will burnishing the sides of the tip every other day eventually stop the flattening of the tip?
Click to expand...

I used to have the same issue. Now I barely have to touch the tip. Here’s a link addressing this:
Over working tip
 
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