Type of joint, material and pin type

F

fish2

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
A long time ago in a galaxy far away :cool: , discussions about how a certain type of joint material, flat face, wood to wood, piloted, radial, Uniloc, etc was a common topic and how it affects the hit was commonly debated, have we come to realize that in a blind test, it would be near impossible for someone to identify which is which or it is now much for fun to debate the advantages/disadvantages of carbon vs wood?
 
Too many bored people tonight, so here is one my kids never tired of --
Want to hear a dirty joke?
Yeah! Yeah!
White horse fell in the mud.
 
The joke is on the kids wanting, and expecting . . . and getting . . . and their unsatisfied expectations. They, sheepishly, think it is very funny and laugh like hell. Try it. Boredom causes many things to happen.
 
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Well the " hit" is, I think, defined as the feedback one receives through their hands and up through the stroke arm as the cue strikes the cue ball. In logical thinking, I assume that if a cue shaft is totally flush with and tight to the cue butt- that neither the type of joint screw nor whether flat face or piloted joint would have any affect at all on the hit.

So, perhaps we can narrow this down to the cue tip hardness, shaft taper, wood or CF shaft, cue butt joint material, and cue butt composition material ( type of wood). There are way too many variables to identify one cue component as being solely responsible for the " hit" of a cue.

The combination of these variables in a given cue is a totally subjective matter as to how one would feel about a particular cue.

One would need experience with many various combinations of tip hardness, shaft type ( wood,CF), shaft tapers, cue joint materials, and cue butt woods; to truly find their perfect match.

There is no right or wrong answer, and even those who have the most experience with varied cue component combinations, can only truly speak for themselves as to " hit" preference.

MY ideal: soft to medium hardness tip on a wood shaft with 14 to 16 inch 12.7 MM pro taper into an ivory sleeved wood cue butt joint with a straight maple forearm having four ebony points.
 
mikemosconi said:
One would need experience with many various combinations
Click to expand...
Cole would go through many shafts all made to the same specs to find a "good one". When I held his cues for collateral he had 6 shafts and only claimed to shot with one of them. His specs included stainless joint and ivory ferrule.
I did get a chance to hit balls with a couple of Joss West cues with ivory joint and ferrule. The hit was more lively than stainless joint. The micro difference in the vibration at hit made it feel good. Like a musical instrument compared to a hammer or club. The feedback is crucial for those with a touch. Bangers, not so much. 🤷‍♂️
Edit: And oh yeah, Water Buffalo leather. Not just any Water Buffalo either. When he redeemed his cue the first thing he checked was for his baggie of tips. His maker of tips had passed and his apprentice just didn't make them as good.
 
Well board does fall within my Master of categories. Growing up adjacent a saw mill to making fine custom furniture.
Cole's senses were so fine tuned that, uh well on a meeting 6 months after I bought my cue from his back up butt and my select from his 5 back up shafts. Cole sais, "I wouldn't be able to shoot with that cue now." So take it for what you want. Every cue has a personality. To be ignorant of; the variables that effect the hit ???? Bill Stroud made Stradivarious cues. His knowledge combined with craftsmanship made for some beautiful instruments.
I did have a friend that got an experimental McDermott with ivory joint and ferrule, FOR $250!!!!! Yikes I hit some balls with it and it definitely talked to me. It was to lust for. Lucky Son of a gun. 🤷‍♂️ Bill Stroud cues started at 1500, Walmart cues start at 20. So if you can't tell the difference......🤷‍♂️
 
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