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  • how much a month would it cost to make one like that snakewood with snakeskin wrap under the finish? i really like that one. its beautiful! that would be what i wanted. is that ok?
    monthly payments would o.k. i can probally buy the materials as, if not cheaper than you, and i know what type of materials makes the best cue. it would be best if we used my materials as i know where and how to buy materials that will best make a cue. i can sell you a plain jane cue for $350.00, you can send me $35 a month for 10 months then i can ship the cue.
    hi mr starkey. my name is anthony gailes. i love the game of pool. i have read about your cues on here and looked at them with a longing to own a starkey one day. i love your ideas of the wooden pin and the no ferrule. i dont have much money to spend on a cue because my wife and i live from check to check. im am not asking for a handout here mr starkey. i just was wondering that, if i bought all the material for the cue i wanted built, would the price be a little affordable for me? and would you even cosidering doing anything like that? i would also even make monthly payments if you allowed that. please let me know what you think.
    i'll get those pens ordered and let you know when they get here. i will get you the address of the snakewood guy asap, and hell no the cops here can barly find the donut shop, much less the guy that robbed my store, even after i gave them his name and phone #. i know who did it. i'll be in touch next week. later chuck
    Hey Chuck hope all is better since we last spoke! Have a couple of ?. You offered to pick up
    a couple of those security pens for me the next time you place an order, I'd like to take you up
    on that. Just let me know how to get you the $. That snakewood stick sure is sharp and the wood looked like it was quite a chunk of change to pick up! You mentioned you had found another wood supplier - wouldn't be willing to share your source would you. Any news on the
    scoundrels that hit you up last month? thanx greg
    i cannot type worth a crap, and if my ramblings were hard the understand, just call i can bs on the phone better than i can type. 660 7231346 later chuck
    not all forearm wood is good for threads. a solid one piece butt will have to find 31 or 32 inch stock, and most is sold in 30 inch length. use exactly 1/2 inch wood for the pin. i do a lot of pins at one time, i cut them with about 1 3/4 inch of thread and then cut them with a 2 inch smooth 1/2 inch piece thast glues into the butt. i then soak them in thin super glue, and i mean soak. let them dry and put aside for future use. when i get ready to use one i put it in the lathe check for straightness and center drill a small hole in the nose. i will only use about half of what i cut because they are not straight. after cutting the female threads into the shaft, i use a .42 inch hole any smaller and the shaft might split, and go slow, back it in and out, and clean the cutting threads or the shaft will split. when its cut soak the female side with super glue, when dry recut. and you will still have to sandpaper the pin and use a small triangle file on the pin to make them fit. l
    Good mrng chuck. I was thinking about the beall system for your threads and was wondering if you are cutting it as one piece on the forearm or cutting a tenon with or without threads and epoxying into the forearm? What size tenon are you cutting? Hope you are getting all that work out of the way, I hate it myself when work cuts into my social time as well! greg
    Chuck, I sent you a broken cue on 9/16/11. Did you receive it? What's the status? I did insure it.

    By the way, did you go to school in the town of Columbia. Thanks, John
    Hi Chuck, Do you have any cues about ready ?. If so would you send me some pics and prices, Thanks Don
    the only way i do is pin in the butt. my shafts have a constant taper [ very stiff ]. after i receive the butt the job will be done in 2 weeks. thank you chuck
    I see you put more pins in the butt, do you also do the pins in the shaft? Leaning towards that question, Yes I was thinking the same the laminated shafts wouldn't be strong enough and I was thinking having the pin on the shaft may help it a bit to hold its strength than a 1/2 inch hole in the shaft.

    The shafts your refering to is there any taper or straight cone on the shaft? I never tried it without a ferrule.

    Also I understand the time frame to do any cues perfection completion, do you have a TBA how long it would take for this project to complete?

    Thanks, Viet.

    You will hear from me in Mid August. There will be 2 cues to be made for that matter.
    i would have to see the butt to make sure, but i almost sure i could do the job. i have both ob-1's , predator's and 8 piece pie shaped laminated shafts, also flat laminated. most of the laminated shafts are not strong enough for the 1/2 inch wood pin. i would recommend using a old growth, 75 year old shaft with high ring count. they are very dense and make a great playing shaft. i would also recommend for a lower deflection style shaft go with the no ferrule. a old growth shaft would cost $100.00 and the pin in the butt would $35.00 so your total cost for setting up the cue would be 135.00 plus shipping.
    How much do you charge in putting in the wooden thread for male and female? I will be getting a butt end with no joint work, and a OB Classic partial shaft. Have you done any shafts that are laminated?.. Thanks. Viet
    the pins and femal threads on my cues are machine cue, then they are tuned [ i.e. filed by hand ] on each cue, so no two are alike. sorry no joint protectors. chuck
    Hello, I was told by another AZ'er you used a wooden pin carom cue. I also use this (adams) set up and was wondering where you got joint protectors for it ?
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