Anniversary Pro 8 Rehab and Moving a Table Yourself

I used a surface conditioning tool similar to this one with 120 and 240 grit drums to remove the deep scratches and get a uniform surface. It works fast, is easy to control and provides a nice base from which to begin sanding. Next step is a random orbit sander with 120 then 240 grit to get rid of the texture from the 240 drum. Polishing was done with a firm airway buffing wheel and brown tripoli on a handheld buffer.
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The corner I did last night took just over an hour total and it had several fairly deep scratches. The surface conditioning process takes less time than the sanding or polishing steps. I'd estimate 15 minutes with the surface conditioner, 25 minutes with the random orbit and 20-25 with the buffer.
 
I've been playing around with finishes. Today water based Transtint dye was wiped on all the wood surfaces. It looks good wet and horrible when it dries but that is the nature of dyes.
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Next step is a clear coat of dewaxed shellac. Dye mixed with shellac will be used over that as a toner to even out the color. I'm still undecided on the top coat.

Take care,
Brent
 
The legs have a shellac seal coat.
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The missing veneer on the stretcher was replaced using a piece of 1/2" birch ply as a donor.
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This is the stretcher with dye stain but no seal coat.
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Any idea how the stretcher could have received so many round dents over the years?
 
I'm not a woodworker by any means, why the Shellac seal coat?? I thought Shellac was mainly used to seal in odors.
Shellac is used to seal raw wood to either avoiding blotching when staining or used to seal oily or tannin rich woods so you can topcoat. For example, polyurethane won't cure if put directly on rosewood. Sealing with shellac allows you to bridge from the raw wood to be able to topcoat with polyurethane.
 
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