Anniversary Pro 8 Rehab and Moving a Table Yourself
- Thread starter bcarter123456
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bcarter123456
Member
I used a surface conditioning tool similar to this one with 120 and 240 grit drums to remove the deep scratches and get a uniform surface. It works fast, is easy to control and provides a nice base from which to begin sanding. Next step is a random orbit sander with 120 then 240 grit to get rid of the texture from the 240 drum. Polishing was done with a firm airway buffing wheel and brown tripoli on a handheld buffer.
The corner I did last night took just over an hour total and it had several fairly deep scratches. The surface conditioning process takes less time than the sanding or polishing steps. I'd estimate 15 minutes with the surface conditioner, 25 minutes with the random orbit and 20-25 with the buffer.
The corner I did last night took just over an hour total and it had several fairly deep scratches. The surface conditioning process takes less time than the sanding or polishing steps. I'd estimate 15 minutes with the surface conditioner, 25 minutes with the random orbit and 20-25 with the buffer.
bcarter123456
Member
The aluminum is polished. I'll give everything one final touch just before assembly. Back to refinishing the wood parts.
bcarter123456
Member
I've been playing around with finishes. Today water based Transtint dye was wiped on all the wood surfaces. It looks good wet and horrible when it dries but that is the nature of dyes.
Next step is a clear coat of dewaxed shellac. Dye mixed with shellac will be used over that as a toner to even out the color. I'm still undecided on the top coat.
Take care,
Brent
Next step is a clear coat of dewaxed shellac. Dye mixed with shellac will be used over that as a toner to even out the color. I'm still undecided on the top coat.
Take care,
Brent
Thanks for the update. You're making good progress.
bcarter123456
Member
It's a little hard to see the progress but the shellac seal coat is on everything but the legs and stretcher. Next step toner coats.
bcarter123456
Member
The legs have a shellac seal coat.
The missing veneer on the stretcher was replaced using a piece of 1/2" birch ply as a donor.
This is the stretcher with dye stain but no seal coat.
Any idea how the stretcher could have received so many round dents over the years?
The missing veneer on the stretcher was replaced using a piece of 1/2" birch ply as a donor.
This is the stretcher with dye stain but no seal coat.
Any idea how the stretcher could have received so many round dents over the years?
I'm not a woodworker by any means, why the Shellac seal coat?? I thought Shellac was mainly used to seal in odors.
Tablemaker
Registered
Shellac is used to seal raw wood to either avoiding blotching when staining or used to seal oily or tannin rich woods so you can topcoat. For example, polyurethane won't cure if put directly on rosewood. Sealing with shellac allows you to bridge from the raw wood to be able to topcoat with polyurethane.
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bcarter123456
Member
More shellac and dye toner coats tonight. The skirts are almost where I want them for top coat.
If you finish wood shellac is a pretty amazing product. Google shellac as a seal coat and combined with dye as a toner.
It gives you a lot of control over the process and is easily removed with denatured alcohol if you want to back up.
It also plays very well with a lot of other finishes and can serve as a barrier between two that might be incompatible otherwise.
From what I understand it is non toxic to the point of being used in shiny candy shells.
If you finish wood shellac is a pretty amazing product. Google shellac as a seal coat and combined with dye as a toner.
It gives you a lot of control over the process and is easily removed with denatured alcohol if you want to back up.
It also plays very well with a lot of other finishes and can serve as a barrier between two that might be incompatible otherwise.
From what I understand it is non toxic to the point of being used in shiny candy shells.