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One point I'd like to make as to how to play better or well. When you're clearing the table of the loose balls, you always have to look at shots other than the easy or obvious ones because they might be the only way you'll later be able to play position to break clusters or bump break shots. I...

Ultimate Billiards in Fort Pierce, Florida has a 6' X 12" Russian Billiards table in their room.

The age old simple cure for a bad patch of burl is to cut it out and inlay a good matching piece. The repair is invisible. I've seen a 12" square piece if walnut burl with 63 inlaid patches and couldn't find a single one even when looking closely. They sell irregular shaped hollow chisel...

If the wood has an obvious flaw it shouldn't be allowed out of the shop. I keep seeing amboyna burl cues with black bark pockets that are being sent out to happy, oblivious buyers who have been told what the heck, it's wood and everything is natural". Horse pucky, cut around the pocket and...

If a shaft somehow falls to the floor it will almost always land on the corner of the joint collar. The best case is nothing happens but most often the finish chips off that spot and frequently you even chip the collar itself. Repair is an expensive pain it the butt. A plastic protector is...

Going from the tropical Philippines to arid Arizona is asking an awful lot. Give the shafts a month or so to acclimate before deciding that they are warped. If they're still bent, then that will be their happy place, but not yours.

Regarding the Lake wood salvaged shafts I have some input. I've been through about 900 board feet of 5/4 maple salvaged lumber from a number of different sources and a couple different northern lakes, all over 100 years old. The final yield from these boards is no different than it would be...

The penetration is significant and scuff sanding won't remove it. You'll be left with a finish that will peel soon enough. You'd need to strip off the oil, rinse, sand and finish.

As long as the hole is clean and the ebony is a good tight fit, you could just use Elmers glue or the wood glues such as Tite Bond or others. If there are gaps between the hole and ebony plug maybe 5 minute epoxy would be better. You don't need any high tech stuff just for the ebony dots in...

Magic eraser is like extremely fine steel wool. You have to buff out the dull area which requires something with rubbing and/or polishing compound and a polishing cloth. You can wax it after. A lathe would make it a lot easier and better but it isn't necessary.

I've always used thickened epoxy and a 5-6 thousandths gap works best. Tighter can leave starved areas and you don't need looser. Epoxy requires a gap to work properly, you just need to use enough glue and thickener.

The question boils down to this, If you knew you could get away with it, would you cheat?

Cut them short first, then turn. It is a little too late but if you had bought an 11/16" or 3/4" drill, the tenon would automatically be too big and the cored wood would be more stable. You can just leave a big end on the front end of the dowel. Cut a sharp shoulder with a single point cutter...

Yeah, it's just like those Stradivarius fiddles, their peices got hammered as soon as people figured out they weren't really the ones used on Hee Haw.

Take your 9 piece shaft and when it is about 1/2" away from being tightly screwed together, try and bend the shaft while keeping the butt motionless. I'll bet a shaft with a wound phenolic collar is stronger than a shaft without a collar. That was the OP's question.

Yes, collars do prevent cracking. They are usually strong enough to prevent the cracking that can come from the accidental leveraging that can occur while the cue is not fully screwed together.

A dulled gloss finish will look great for a while then after some use there will be areas that are a little glossier than others that haven't experienced as much frictional wear. You can always apply satin, sand it smooth with 600 wet, and use paste wax applied with some #000 steel wool then...

It will polish up but not all the way. Why not just put on all the base coats, sand and apply a thin satin coat and leave it alone?

I couldn't find anything that looked like a crack, just a lot of different scratches, some of which are pretty deeper than others.

I have an old 4 veneer, 4 pointer with slotted MOP diamonds in the points and a white linen phenolic ring with 8 Szamboti type veneers, a steel joint with black Balabushka style joint rings and an Acme threaded screw. Did anybody but Bill Stroud use this screw?