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FYI -on engineering and physics of a pool cue. if a cue maker knifes-in or does full splice points, with a heavy wood like cocobola or ebony then there is a much more gradual progression of weight in the cue as you go farther back in the cue, which is adventageous when you are bringing the cue...

What, are you telling me You think inlays are for some other purpose than cosmetic?????????????/

I think this is the best advice, -you have to be so in tune with the table, the balls, the cloth, the rails, your cue, your tip , etc. You need to be able to feel, if the cloth is moist or if the rails are firm or soft, or if the balls are dirty(alot of friction) or clean (very little...

Sorry, I believe the Idea was that Trudeau could make $

you mis-understand my meaning, a full splice cue usually has a much better weight distribution and a nicer hit- inlaid points are just cosmetic, they serve no purpose!

stop the madness- just relax and focus Why do so many players try to quantify the aiming, ball control and stroke. If you have decent fundamentals ( doesn't have to be perfect)and they relax and pay attention to what is happening on the table, in time you will receive enough feedback/data from...

irregardless of the issue with this cue, I have always been amazed at the number of players that can't see the difference, and don't care how different a full splice cue feels. It just tells me how few serious players we have in our sport.

If the purpose is to protect the cue: there are 2 common types of damage, 1 physical- easy to solve 2 wide and rapid swings in humidity- hard to solve both problems can be solved with a good hard case that has a tight seal on the cap. The key word being tight, because what is important is that...

Cue collectors and players beware: It is becomming increasingly hard for cuemakers to find good aged jet black ebony and clear, white, slow growth, straight grain shaftwood. Because of the scariciety of these and other building materials - it has come to my attention many times over the past...

a shaft should never warp! If you start with good straight grain old growth maple and turn and naturally dry (not kiln dried) the shafts a controlled number of times AND eliminate any shafts that start to develop any warp during this lengthy process. You will have shafts that will NEVER warp if...

I don't see anything wrong with the joint, what are you refering to? But I would want to see the shafts and the nipples on the back of the shafts- to make sure the shafts are original BB. BTW that is some beautiful birdseye maple!!!!!!!!!!!! Craig

No, I hired a professional photographer, I took some photos and Tony took some photos. The site was designed, organized and created by myself, a graphic designer, and the web host. Carrie, interviewed Tony, developed the text, the layout, uploaded photos, etc And she made $500 clear--every week...

Hi Kevin, Sorry for the slow updates I have just been so busy with work. I had hired Carrie (Black boar historian) to help me create the website initially, but she wanted to move on, I've tried to hire her back, but with no luck. I have been trying to hire somebody who could work with Tony and...

The humidity is a much bigger culprit in damaging cues than temperature changes. But if the wood on the shafts was properly cut down when the cue was made and dried then even with humidity changes the shafts will remain true. the humid changes is harder on ivory, inlays, rings,etc. Craig

With plenty of Boars to choose from, The one I carry everywhere and the one that's my favorite and my best playing Black Boar, I paid $14,000 about 3 years ago, but just this year I turned down an offer of $18,500- so what's it worth ?????????? but I would'nt even sell it for 20k. It's like...

Starting price for a 8 point cue is around 13k- if Tony still made the six point cues they would be less because they require a little less work than the 8 point cues - I believe I neglected to say, your joint protectors I would say are additionally worth $1,500+/- If you are really intrested...

Don't get me wrong, I love your cue! In the asian market ( if they could legally buy ivory cues) it would probably be worth more than 20k, but the US market is depressed right now. The reason I say 13k -14k is this: A brand new 8 point cue like yours would cost around 16k-17k of that I'm sure...

-Tony has made many new discovery's in cue building in the 10+ years since he helped Michael, But Michael does have some similar construction details but the cues are not the same techinal specifications, and they do play different. Really good shaft wood is very difficult to come by in Germany-...

Some of the stuff Tony is building now is very techinal and detailed- some of his more complex and detailed newer stuff is selling for 25k+

Probably around 13-14k Craig