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Back to the top. This cue will play as good as it looks. Two local guys saw this before shipping and both thought the cue was absolutely gorgeous. If you don't love every inch of this beautiful cue or it doesn't play great you get your money back.

Yes, one is yours.

Thanks. The pictures do it no justice.

Here is a sneak peak for the guys waiting. The cues are coming along great and are looking beautiful. Here's a sneak peak

Properly prepared wood seems to be more important then when. This isn't the first time wood preparation is more critical then technique. In the future when somebody changes their mind to add a wrap at the very end I'll feel comfortable cutting it.

I started this thread to ask a question. My wrap groove takes more time than I like so I wanted to see if I could tune up my technique. Cutting it once at the end could speed thing up but I didn't read anything that would push me in that direction. A custom taper bar is the answer to speed...

Building a taper bar with the wrap groove is a great idea. Thanks.

This thread has reminded me why I spend the time cutting the wrap over time. "Your obviously having a problem doing it the way you were or you wouldn't have brought it up." Not having any problems. It's a time thing. If I agreed I would of changed.

I don't cut the wrap at final size so I have no idea if it will creat problems. I don't finish cut my shafts or butts with a .020" or deeper cut so why would I treat the handle differently. I think I just answered my question. I'll stick with my technique.

This question was meant for everybody. "What are the reasons not to cut the wrap groove over time like all the other parts we prepare over time". What's the theory behind it? ...

I remember the cue. Thanks for the video.

I don't think many builders cut their butt tenon in one pass. If they do they'll quickly learn not to. The core and tenon in the butt sleeve are a different subject. Are you saying? If the wood is old enough it won't stress relive? If it's cored it won't stress relieve? My building...

Both. I asked to get an idea what the majority was doing. Looking at pictures and talking to builders I've noticed this is another step in building that we all do different. Is there a better or easier way???

Looking at the cues in progress pictures made me ask. Some cut the groove after clear and some clear with it cut. Large cuts can stress relieve the grain so I'm against cutting it close to final size. My wrap groove is cut in proportion on all cut.

When do you cut your wrap groove? I've noticed each builder cuts his wrap groove at a different point in the build. At what point do you cut your groove? Why? Is there a difference?

I put the G on my cues for the first year. There are close to 90 cues with the G and most are in local players hands. I found AZ after my 2nd year building and I was signing my cues by then. I know of 2 AZ members that have the old G cues. I'm scared to ask. Any chance I can see a picture...

My guess is. Ferrules - ABS Wood #3 Ash or Oak #4 Koa or Mahogany #5 Bocote or Zebra. . .Bocote is heavy and easy to see the difference #6 IPE #7 Bubinga #8 Lignum Vitae

$1,000,000 is my guess. Bob or bobalouiecda on here has talked to Hubler several times with no results yet. I think Hubler has a deep connection with his wood and it's hard letting it go.

The bottom of the points will be sharp on the old Brunswicks.

...There is nothing greedy about charging a premium for premium aged wood... I agree. That's not being greedy. Age, grain, and tone make the wood valuable/premium. IMO People have been trying to buy Hublers wood stock for years. I've heard it's a warehouse full.