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I'll bet you couldn't. Lol No, you did right. For some reason I thought he was talking about threads in his shaft. Possible carry-over in focus to the insert that I was in the process of swapping. Doggies. Well at least he'll know how to proceed when the shaft goes. Thanx. Just happen to...

Given that pin I wouldn't consider a brass insert unless your intent is to add more weight. Phenolic weighs next to nothing and your thread problem is solved.....forever. Lastly, the pheno insert will improve the hit. Adding more 'dead-mass' won't. KJ

Good job, everything else looks to be intact. Give him an upgrade to a black linen pheno ring. You won't see it again. I have only the handle side of the joint in the shop, not the shaft side. They share the threaded stem concept. Add this to your list of 'special ones'. Heat-gun ??? Dude, You...

This is not a simple repair and may not be worth the time. I don't believe that the aluminum is merely a ring as is encompasses the entire face of the shaft. Open the ring to see what's underneath. You may find that you have to disassemble the entire joint to replace the ring. Hence my statement...

While I'm not a certified Mezz-tech to know the shaft's particulars, this is normally, as you say, a straight-forward procedure. Normal meaning; machine out the insert, plug the hole, drill and tap. Proceed with extra caution until you know what you've got. KJ

One would expect someone to be fully conscious at 10:12 AM right ? http://www.wood-database.com/bigleaf-maple/ Average Dried Weight: 34 lbs/ft3 That's some heavy Big Leaf you've got there. Maybe time to check the batteries in the scale and calculator. Just for jeeps I did a search of...

The top pc appears to be Big Leaf Maple showing 'quilt'. The 2nd pc is likely the same species but shown at a different angle/side. Wood isn't weighed by the sq.ft., it's weighed by the cubic ft. You may want to correct your data. BL Maple is super light.

Wrap a pc of tape around the pilot on the shaft that you have. Mark it where it starts to overlap. Remove the tape. Measure the length to the mark. Divide that by pi. That's the approx. dia. of your pilot. Greater accuracy depends on you. If you want the pilot to be in contact with the interior...

Lifetime warranty on workmanship and materials. Abuse is usually easily identified and normal wear/tear happens with age. You have a limited warranty on the finish of your car; it's not forever. In many cases, cues have the same finish. Cues generally fare better. Each cue is different and each...

Just a quick reminder to those following at home. A couple of thou. is no biggie. We're working with wood here. It moves that much on a daily basis and lets be honest. You need room for the epoxy. The sky is blue except when it's gray.

IMO, the Radial is a pretty decent pin. It's just different. Different in that we're used to seeing 60* V threads. This is a different animal but does it's job well. I was skeptical at first glance but I've yet to find a fault. Lets clear-up this install debate. You DON'T have to do anything...

Quality tooling is an excellent investment.

The Radial's pilot is .310" dia. x .250" Long. There's 1" of thread length on the bottom threads of a Radial. That leaves 3/4" length of threads. PS - No bottoming tap needed either. Sorry Mike.

Option 6 Turn the bottom of the pin to the dimensions of the pilot on the tap. The pin fills the hole. No little wooden plugs needed.

Suffice it to say, we use different tooling. How about we say that a drill-bit was an example. It doesn't matter what you stick in the hole. Measure it first and you have a reference. Just make sure it's not tapered.

This is the first I'm hearing of a taper on a standard drill-bit. I have some HSS bits that measure a thou. or two larger at the cutting edge but no taper is involved. The vast majority of the bits that I use are solid carbide and measure true from end to end.

Here is what might be considered a cost savings tip for those interested in internal diameter measurement. Plug gages are the way to go, they were made for this purpose. However, an accurate set of plug gages is expensive. Not many will justify the cost as the gage's use is very limited in our...

You are correct Sir. Calipers are not an accurate instrument for measuring the 'id' of a Uni insert. I've just proven that to myself. The internal radius won't allow the blades to set properly. I'm not about to sharpen them either. Plug gage it is. Thanx for pointing that out. KJ

Calipers are designed to measure 'id' as well as 'od'. What are you using ? I'm intrigued, you galled brass doing a hand fit-up (dry-fit) ? If it doesn't fit, it doesn't fit. Don't force it. Without pics we have no idea what prts you're using or where you got them. I can tell you this. I have...

Just as an FYI, there is a lot of Bubinga currently available. Some of it is highly figured, ie, Beeswing, waterfall, etc. You don't have to buy the tree to get a few nice pcs. You might even say that the market is flooded. As an investment, maybe the future will show your profit. KJ