Looking at getting a new shaft for my Joss and the seller is willing to trim the pilot to fit my cue comfortably. I don't have calipers on hand so want to make sure I give him accurate measurements. Does anyone know the exact measurements on the pilot opening (diameter and depth) for Joss cues?
New Shaft
- Thread starter djv122385
- Start date
JC
Coos Cues
Get a hold of some calipers or take your chances. No information anyone gives you here will 100% assure a good fit.
JC
If you own a cue (actually, if you are alive and breathing), you should own a caliper, a very handy tool .
I like the "iGaging" one. Amazon and others have it for under $20.
Harbor Freight has others from about $12 on sale.
Once you own it, you will feel competent and empowered and will go around measuring everything in your home for days.
Just do it!
Robin Snyder
I like the "iGaging" one. Amazon and others have it for under $20.
Harbor Freight has others from about $12 on sale.
Once you own it, you will feel competent and empowered and will go around measuring everything in your home for days.
Just do it!
Robin Snyder
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Wrap a pc of tape around the pilot on the shaft that you have.
Mark it where it starts to overlap. Remove the tape.
Measure the length to the mark. Divide that by pi.
That's the approx. dia. of your pilot. Greater accuracy depends on you.
If you want the pilot to be in contact with the interior wall of the collar,
(compression fit), you'll need to send the cue.
Mark it where it starts to overlap. Remove the tape.
Measure the length to the mark. Divide that by pi.
That's the approx. dia. of your pilot. Greater accuracy depends on you.
If you want the pilot to be in contact with the interior wall of the collar,
(compression fit), you'll need to send the cue.
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I have made many shafts to replace a piloted shaft..................... I have never put a pilot on any of them............................. they shoot and feel just fine......... maybe better than the original............................. bash me now......... but i thing the pilot is totally unnecessary
Kim
Kim
The pilot is not about hit, its about concentricity, threads themselves make very poor alignment features. So yeah you can do it without affecting hit but does the shaft run perfect with the butt of the cue? And if does when it leaves the shop and somewhere down the road someone faces the joint, does it still run concentric?
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99% of all cues do not have a piloted shaft............... they all seem to be concentric when screwed together...................... I think your concern is not real.............
If the cue maker makes the shaft and the butt separately using standard carbide sanding mandrels ........ they will be concentric even if refaced several times....................... if the shaft and the butt are screwed together and then sanded................ it will be like you say............................. just buy it from a cue maker that knows how to build a cue
Kim
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Word.......
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Threads have clearance in order for the two parts to fit and when you tighten your joint together it pulls the flank of the male thread against the female. This is where the clearance has an effect, you will essentially push the two parts out of alignment the amount of that clearance. The tighter the tolerances on your threads the less this effect is noticed. So the 3/8-10 thread for example that McDermott uses does not have a pilot but the wood threads are almost a force fit or size on size. They can do this because the female is a soft material and it will conform to the pin. The smaller pins like the 5/16-14 usually use a brass insert, brass does not have the same ability to conform there fore uses a larger clearance between the two mating parts which is why it is combined with some type of alignment feature. So yes not all joints use a pilot but those that do, do so for a reason.