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Call Ken at Classic.....I'm sure you find what you're looking for here: http://www.classicbilliards.net/html/anniversary_centennial.cfm Robin

Good looking pair there Tony! How many of Jeffs cues are you blessed with? Enjoy!! Robin

I'd send your photo's to Marvin at Brunswick to see if he can shed further light on your table......very sweet by the way :thumbup: He's very informative and helpful. It may take a few days for a reply but he will reply. Here's his email address: marvin.eisenhauer@brunswickbilliards.com...

Must be preference! I don't do many bar boxes any longer but used to do them daily back in the Midwest. It appears (by his photo's posted here) that Glen even uses the no fold method unless he's changed his technique. I'm sure he can chime in on that :grin:

I'd like to hear any cons as well. (On bar boxes) having no folds is a much cleaner look, keeps fabric behind the points, eliminates a possible "rise" under the rail where most techs put a staple, and it wears better because most folds I've seen wear out at ball contact in the middle of the fold.

Woe is me! Hiya Matt - not sure when I'll be out your way but, will let you know. I just sent my cue back to Jeff Olney for two new shafts so hopefully won't need any tip work for awhile. If I book a job out that way I will call ahead. I REALLY like that evil eye cue! Sweet! Robin

Whoa! I do third party service for various relocation companies and pool tables are dismantled and slate crated individually. Sounds like their table was moved fully assembled. Yes.....sad!!! And Rick, notice over 80 reports since 2002? Holy moly!

Staple the cloth at one end first and stretch it from end to end, then all folds are made on the back side of the rail and not on the face of the pockets. No rocket science books required :thumbup:

Nice work Matt! Those are both primo and would fit nicely in MY case :grin: Keep up the great pieces! Robin

Are you ready to change your cushions? If so, here's the correct way to extend subrails but, you will need new cushions, facings and feather strips, etc http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=60868&highlight=tighten+pockets If you don't want to extend your subrails, you can add...

You indicated a couple of friends who are mechanics. I'd suggest taking one (or both) with you and do an inventory of the parts to make certain they're all there.......and more importantly, functional. Then as has already been suggested, make it a project for personal use because resale won't...

Nah, the block is good enough for me. I've had the same one for over 20 years and haven't damaged a rail cap since I first started working on tables. I use my finger tips on the cushions as a sliding guide so the block never goes past the feather strip......ever!

Durhams......for as long as I can remember. If a slate screw is in the playing surface, I'll put a piece of paper over the screw head. It's a real pain to remove if you cover those heads! Robin

I have always and still do use a fiber block for setting feather strips, a rubber mallet, single edge razor blades, extra rubber & wood feather strips.... Robin

Another absolute beauty! Robin

Nice Cue! Tony - looks sweet!!! Now you have me excited. I just sent my 16 year old Olney player in for two new shafts and Jeff recommended the micarta ferrules. All I've played with are the ivory so I can't wait to get it back......it's going to be a long 3-4 weeks without it :eek: Robin

Thanks Donny.....that was my exact inquiry! I don't do many bar boxes anymore but knew at the first opportunity I wanted to try Glen's replacements. Robin

Thanks for the contact info gentlemen! I'll get with Kerry asap..... Robin

Glen - is your inbox full or are you just ignoring me? :ignore: Are your Valley replacement rails available in 8'?? Let me know.....I have a customer interested in them. Thanks man! Robin

That's a nice photo presentation Donny! Nice work! Robin