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then does diamond pay for this ....it seems to me that this is a defect in the design and construction and should be covered?

not to be mean, but my guess is that you won't get a reply.... i'm not a mechanic but use this forum to service my own table the info is all in this forum and you have to search every inch of it. Then start asking questions. here is what i would say is a must: machinest level, stapler, 3m-10...

here is a diagram the reverend gave me on the stretch pattern. http://www.reverendbilliards.com/cloth_layout.html

here was the best answer i got....check post at the bottom by dartman http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=216857

no ...but the biggest you can go is 1/4 inch....any bigger and problems arise . you can order the 60 durometer neoprene from amazon . a 12x12 piece should do it.

I think the key is to find the exact balance point in the cue. you also have to lean forward a bit to make a good stroke. very hard to do well but it does improve your stroke ....

good for snooker ....that's about it ....tighten em' any more and it will be caroms... at least he didn't extend the shelves .....oops ..now i said it and it will probably happen.....

but can you explain why he is having this problem? were the subrails bad to begin with and what was wrong with them?

first link is correct.....you can go to 1/4" facings of 60 durometer neoprene with no problems ....but if you want to go tighter than another 1/2" then you have to extend the rails and replace the cushions. edit: not exactly 1/2" it would depend on the current facing thickness... that second...

it's almost like a bad joke ....he read the forums and did exactly what you are not supposed to do; use an uncalibrated carpenters level spray glue the bed spray glue the rails... plaster of paris on the seams double shimmed the facings used a ball to help level the slate no offense to the op...

try to remove as much as you can .... use a scraper just as the bondo is about to dry ....if you wait too long it is a time consuming process to get it flat .... the bondo almost leaves a glass like finish in the end .....i was impressed.

ummm....use wood shims available at ACE/ home depot etc ....they start very thin almost the size of a playing card and taper to larger ...you need the taper because as you are leveling you just pound the shim in a bit more ...if you use cards then you have to lift the slate by some other means...

the water helps the cloth relax ....but I think it is only used in certain places where you need more cloth .... i.e. finishing the pockets .... it can also be used in areas where the cloth was pulled to tight. other than that i haven't heard much about spraying water ....but i'm not a prof...

have you thought about purchasing? ....commercial spaces are on the cheap right now ...a bit hard to get funding, but banks like to show that they are looking to fund this type of stuff since the tax payers gave them billions .... just a thought.

I agree ...if the original rubber is fine then it is fine and shouldn't be replaced. I would say, however, there are many options for good rubber .....artemis intercontinental and the diamond black k-55 are good choices ...i've heard mixed things on the brunswick superspeed. good rubber...

http://www.classicbilliards.net/html/antiquepooltablepartspockets.html

yes it would ...and if you put a black light on the cloth it should say simonis and a serial number.... if not it is upside down or not simonis.

there are people on this site that sell below MAP .....go get em' ....I posted a thread and got it 20% off ....I can't stand price fixing ...and will do anything to get around it ...Simonis is a great product, but I fail to see the advantage of fixing the price ....they don't make any more money...

what if the owner purchases the cloth prior to the install ...do you charge extra for the difference in profit you would have made on the cloth purchase?

wow ..that is a good deal ...and the original white paint looks to be in good condition ....