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wood if it includes both pics i will take them

jump cue handle try cedar usually has some nice yellow to pink hues in it. nice and light. take your time not very stable.

John did send me a nice 2x4 case a few years ago when my buddy Chad "Big Nasty" Pollman passed away. Raised $700 for his 13 year old daughters college fund. John actually emailed me and offered to do this. Nuff said except thank you again!

austria 10 usa 6

Sounds like I am getting strong opinions on the value of this cue. I appreciate that. I am sure if Palmer was still in business it would be the place to have it repaired and refinished. George Balabushka was basically a production style maker and as I understand he farmed out his forearms to...

The cue was originally purchased by a Palmer dealer in about 1980. The cue was a custom order, so it is one of a kind. In 1982 the joint was broken off with a clean break that did not get into the body of the forearm. It has been commented that it is a szamboti Bicentennial forearm. The cue...

will do. Value anyone? PM me thanks

palmer yes the cue has the pearl diamond inlays the entire length of the handle. cue was broke with clean break and the joint will need to be rebuilt. I don't know the value but it is a one of a kind ordered by a palmer dealer in late 70's. I am thinking it may be a szamboti forearm. Butt...

Thought I would share these pics. Sent to Proficient for restoration.

I actually have someone "spot" the butt of the cue by having them use a dry washclothe and their hand to steady the centrifugal force the buttend will want to generate.

That will hardly remove any weight; as someone else stated, messing with the A joint is not recommended. Mario You might want to try and find a lighter shaft. Weigh your shaft, call Cue and case and see if they can get you one about a half ounce lighter.

You need to empty your inbox it is full. I tried to pm u back.

Looks like it may be impregnated not dyed. I would contact whoever listed it on ebay and have him make u up a piece say 1.5x1.x18 for a handle stock piece.

I would talk to Jim at Samsara.

I build LD shafts with a 1/2 inch capped ferule. I have given the thought of no ferule but my biggest concern is chalking damage to the wood right behind the tip. Most LD shafts have a bore hole in the end of them and chalk is a pretty good abrasive against wood. No ferule, not for me.

I think I would go with trying to get the shaft as close to 29 inches even if it means replacing the tenon. I usually drill a small hole in the replacement ferule to eliminate hydraulic pressure when I epoxy the new tenon in. I really like the Samsara break tip over phenolic. As a player it...

Need 3 sets phenolic with silver or brass 12 index, joint, A, and butt. PM me if you have some you can spare.

If the joint is 5/16x18 with the chessmen in the buttsleeve any chance it could come out of Hueblers Custom Shop and the JE is a players initials?

some of it almost looks like bacote

Hi i use a 9/32 bit drilled 3.5 inches deep. I put a little water in the tapped hole and whip it out and use gorilla glue as a foam filler. my tenon length is .375 and so is my diameter. I machine a .5 capped ferule with a glue relief hole. works very nice.