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s cuff up the swood with 80 grit then pply a thick coat of west thickened with micro baloons leave the lsthe turning slowly till it hardens. t is easy to tjurn to size.

The points are great but the ring has a crack. The cue is straight together and apart. $450. firm. Pau;l Sold

I drill a tiny glue relief hole through the ferrule , use extra glue, and leave .005-.007". 20-30 minutes, minimum.

qbuilder is right, 1.25 has been the standard since the late 1970's. It can be whatever the maker wants but smaller is thin and bigger is fat.

56" very nice cue, veneers perfect and all points level, Decal very good, shaft is straight as is the entire cue, weight is exactly the 21 oz marked. $500

f I'm doing handles, I do a lot, 100+. True between centers, Cutt the A tenon a few thousandths short and ..050" fat, cut the tail tenon a .100 over and a 1/4 inch short. Taper the handle, leaving excess at the bottom, hang them up and come back next year.

I've never used one of these but if everything lines up and is solid. I'd leave the risers in. It is a lot easier not having to bend over as much.

In the end most guys compare the finish they use to automotive clear coat. Given the ability to safely and properly use any of the finishes, pick the clear coat

I have to go along with Mike. If you are opening a 6"X6" chunk of wood I would give it a chance to acclimate to the new environment. Purple heart is a particularly stable wood and will probably be fine but do give it a chance to move, or not.

Love the look but seldom use metal rings other thet at thejoint itself. I keesp the thickness of my rings ay .020to .oqo

If It is ebony, $800 or more,, Brazilian rose wood $650-$700, other woods, $500-600

What I mean is to run a live center into the dimple, cavity, hole, at the end of the screw. You don't grab the screw.

I've been using them since they came out and I always run the tail stock up while the glue sets. I don't know if I need to do it or not and I don't care. Tying the lathe up for 5 minutes is cheap insurance.

If you have a sturdy 6ft. or longer work bench, the right wood, good planes, a tapered long V grooved board clamped to the bench, making a cue without a lathe could be done. The ferrule might be a problem but as seen in the Parris video it is possible.. If you cut the wood with enough uniform...

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I have a Brazilian rose wood Hoppe for sale. IT has great points with deeply colored veneers, almost level points and all original. The ring in the butt has a old, small crack. The shaft is about 1/2" short and very thin. Price is $650 Thanks. Paul

I really doubt that this cue is cored much past the butt sleeve. Start with a Dufferin butt, bore a hole 6 or 7 inches up the butt, cut off the butt sleeve, glue in a long enough dowel, cut the ends true, add rings, glue butt sleeve back on the cue the proceed from there with the wrap groove...

Real olive wood,takes a very long time to stabilize enough to safely use in a cue. It has a definite tendency to develop surface cracks and must be cored. I just finished making a olive wood fronted ebony pointed cue with an olive wood butt sleeve. It looks great. The secret to using this...

Adequate rings, straight grain and good weight. That's all you need. The rest is hype and LEGEND.

The fresh cut look of bocote and most other woods will darken in time no matter what the finish is. Yes you can epoxy over shellac. Zinsser makes a Universal Seal Coat (home Depot) that is great for almost everything you can imagine. I even use it to seal every piece of veneer before I use it...