Stop recommending Players HXT?

ScottK

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
By how much ?
That mass isn't much.
It's the first 5" of the shaft's end-mass that really matter .

I agree, it isn't much. The shaft still plays fine, but it's noticeably different both in terms of hit and deflection. To be clear, it isn't a huge difference in deflection, but it is different.
 

ScottK

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Do you really think the light weight polymer does something?

So that's what makes the special ferrule low deflection.......:smile:

It obviously does as I can tell the difference with the new ferrule. Keep in mind it had a very thin tenon (wood mass) and thin ferrule (plastic mass). It now has more of each since the tenon on the standard ferrule is undoubtedly thicker than the old tenon and the new ferrule is thicker and probably a denser material than the old.

Again, it isn't a huge difference, but it's different. Most people would probably say the shaft plays great. In fact, I think I like it, but that isn't the point.
 

ScottK

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
did you ever break with it?? i wouldnt looking at the pics

I generally don't break with my playing cues because I use soft tips and don't want to have to maintain them any more than necessary. However, I had soft broken nine ball racks with it on a few occasions. Perhaps that damaged the tenon.

I did break with it last night since it's now just a standard maple shaft. It does have a soft tip, but had he contacted me and we decided to have him repair it I'd have had him put a medium to hard tip on it and used it to break as well as play. So I'll let the tip harden up, shape it and use it.
 

ScottK

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I can see all kinds of problems with that ferrule design. From the looks of it,this could have happened to anyone.

I'm also pretty sure this isn't the first time this has happened.

With STEEL in a lathe,you can only stick 3x the diameter out of the chuck before you start getting tool/part deflection,and risk it flying out of the chuck with too heavy of a cut. This is solved by using a live center.

Now,add to that the fact that this is a wood shaft,and you need to be as close to the chuck as possible.

I had a customer bring me a pre-Cat Predator one time where another repair guy left 6" sticking out in front of the chuck and tried to face it off.

The wood and carbon fiber tube broke off completely. I told the customer it was a total loss and told him to take it back to the guy that broke it and sit on his porch until he paid him for a new shaft.

I've had 3 "normal" tenons break on me while installing a ferrule. I fixed all 3,and none of those shafts have come back for issues.

I also called them immediately,and told them what was going on BEFORE I did anything else. All 3 customers are still with me.

At least I know now that if I run into one of these shafts,that certain precautions need to be taken so this doesn't happen to me. Tommy D.

Thanks for the info. Part of the reason I put this out there was as an "alert" for others. Hope it saves you and others a headache in the future.
 

ScottK

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Scott,

Excellent photographs! Those along with the illustrations from the manufacturer lead me to some speculations, a theory concerning what happened. I wanted to see if there was damage to the outside of the ferrule, almost a given if there was the kind of train wreck caused by sloppy set-up or careless work on the tip installer's part. The outside of the ferrule and tip too for that matter seems entirely free of the type of damage I would expect to see if the installer was at fault when trimming the tip. Simplest explanation tossed out the window!

Now looking at the interior, both the photographs and the manufacturer's illustrations: What I see is that there is an unusual amount of load borne by the area where the ferrule is glued to the shaft face and that first little short step that the long tenon goes into. The ferrule has to be out of a fairly flexible material as well as the miracle filler for this to be a low deflection shaft. That indicates that the glue joints at the base of the ferrule and at the short large diameter step are stressed every time a ball is hit. In most designs the structural integrity of the assembly comes from the mechanical assembly and the glues/adhesives only serve to hold the components in place, they don't bear a significant load.

I strongly suspect that the adhesive failed at the line where the ferule joins the shaft on the outside of the cue and in that step area adjacent to this visible area. Then the tiny center tenon takes a heavier load than it was designed for both when balls are hit and when someone works on the shaft.

My guess, you heard the occasional odd sound because of the movement between ferrule and shaft where the glue joint failed and that failure was also the primary cause of the end assembly breaking off the shaft. The long thin tenon may have already been damaged before bringing the shaft in for a new tip also since it was bearing a load it was never meant to bear if the joint failure I suspect actually existed.

My opinion, a questionable design that relies heavily on adhesives that are being asked to bear unusual loadings and a resultant adhesive failure are at the root of your problem. The material of the ferrule could have also failed at a microscopic level where some of it was allowed to move and some was held in place by the adhesive at the base. Unusual demands are made of the ferrule in this design too, don't know if it was up to the task or not. Yet another issue, end grain glue ups of wood are failure prone under load. This design relies pretty heavily on glue ups to end grain. A standard design gets much more assistance from side grain glue up than this design does.

I don't think the repair man bears any responsibility for the ferrule assembly breaking off. If unfamiliar with this design, as I was, the cue man took some things for granted and was burned. He should have caught that this was an unusual construction after it came apart and before his repairs. If he just looked at the shaft and not the piece broken off it would be very easy to not notice however.

I would send your photographs to the manufacturer, I think they should eat some or all of the costs of a new shaft. Anything left remaining, the cue man should cover. He made an error any of us might have made if unfamiliar with that shaft, never-the-less it was an error on his part.

With twenty-twenty hindsight he should have stepped away from the job and contacted everyone involved when the end of the shaft came apart. I have replaced a handful of tenons on conventional shafts and only explained to the customer what I did when returning the shaft however, not that big of a deal on a standard shaft and a well done repair is almost always stronger than the tenon and shaft was to begin with. The cue man's mistake was not recognizing an oddball shaft when doing what seemed a routine job. I could have made the same mistake, I would have covered it but would have taken it up with the manufacturer myself afterwards. I suspect the manufacturer is seeing failures in the area we see in your photographs, the step area I discussed.

Very much my opinion here. My opinion might be different if I had everything in hand to look at very closely under magnification but I think I have built a likely chain of events.

Hu

Thank you, sir.

This is excellent insight indeed and inline with what I suspected. While I certainly don't possess the technical insight you have, I suspected it was probably a combination of the design, perhaps a bad or stressed tenon, and an honest mistake by the repair guy.

Once again, I wasn't mad at anyone involved, things happen. I'll base my judgement of the repair man on his repair, which is quite good, and probably give Players a chance with a new shaft.

Thanks again for taking the time to offer your expertise. I truly appreciate it.
 
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ScottK

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hmm... This seems like a very sound theory/explanation to me.

I'm a Players/Pure X dealer, as well as a repairman. I recommend and sell A LOT of these HXT shafts, and the 11.75mm Skinny one is really really popular now. Just off the top of my head, I can think of a fairly decent number of guys that play out of my place that are currently using these shafts. I've replaced several dozen of their tips, and personally haven't had a problem like this yet...
Not sure if I would get an honest answer or not if I were to ask my rep if there has been a number of issues like this one, but I'll ask anyway on Monday. Can't hurt..

On a conspiracy theory note, I just received a shipment of Pure X cues with the 11.75mm Skinny shaft a few days ago. I had been waiting for them for several months, with the expected delivery date getting pushed back at least 3 times. I did wonder what the heck was going on, but now looking back, maybe they had quality control issues, or design issues that needed tweaked? Just thinking out loud, and as I said already, I haven't had any problems like this arise from any I've sold...

I'd definitely appreciate any information you can get from your rep, Rain Man. If he thinks Players may cover it, great. If they won't but would like the pictures for QC, I can send them.

Also, I'll PM you about a new shaft. :)
 

Hits 'em Hard

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Thanks for the info. Part of the reason I put this out there was as an "alert" for others. Hope it saves you and others a headache in the future.

You know, one thing I noticed is that the tenon broke off via twisting. I don't think breaking with it caused the failure. Definetly looks like that installer is using improper techniques more than anything. Oh yea, he's also using a box cutter to trim the tip. You can tell that from the wavey line around the tip. The blade isn't being held secure and bounces back and forth in the knife handle. This could def be the problem. The edge on the blade prevents the knife from being able to properly get flush to the ferrule.

I don't buy it that this happened because of the small tenon. All installer fault to me.
 

Blue Hog ridr

World Famous Fisherman.
Silver Member
Scott, I was a little harsh but you also took my post out of context a bit. I would have to explain why I said what I said and then you would know why. I didn't so it was easy to think I was being a dick, which I also can be at times as well. But I am also a Funny Dick at times too.

Anyway, Rain Man, I bought 2 of the HXT 12.75 and one of the 11.75, (actually 12mm and thats even better).

I'm not a expert player but can hold my own anytime, but I swear by these shafts as compared to the 3 Pred shafts that I own. For the price I got them for, I could have purchased one Pred shaft, regular price, which I seldom pay anyway.

If by chance, a person was to have to replace a ferrule on an HXT, is the ferrule material available?

What would be the closest material that you would recommend?

Joey mentioned Isoplast and that would be a good choice and also Titan, I believe.

Is there a recommended guide to a repair as there is on both OBs and Preds sites.

If not, and you wanted to use a 1/4" tenon, one would have to figure out a type of light weight material to use in the area that a normal 5/16th tenon would take up.

Epoxy would be my first guess but would most likely be heavier. I could think of one or two lighter materials but then it would be hard to get it in uniformly and wouldn't be as strong either.
 

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
Look at the wood inside the ferrule. If it would of just snapped off , there would be splinters sticking straight out. There isn't.

with the shaft is spinning at 500-600 rpm while he was trimming the tip, and the tenon was weakened already, the amount of drag by the cutting with the blade would make the tenon twist as the blade contacts the tip material resulting in a twisting, ripping action, causing the ferrule to twist off, therefore the twisted fibers shown in the picture.
I'm glad to have come across this thread as I do run across a lot of Players shafts for repair, just haven't had a LD one yet. Now I'm forewarned. Thanks Scott for posting this and hope all ends well for you.
DAve
 

ShootingArts

Smorg is giving St Peter the 7!
Gold Member
Silver Member
microspheres

Scott, I was a little harsh but you also took my post out of context a bit. I would have to explain why I said what I said and then you would know why. I didn't so it was easy to think I was being a dick, which I also can be at times as well. But I am also a Funny Dick at times too.

Anyway, Rain Man, I bought 2 of the HXT 12.75 and one of the 11.75, (actually 12mm and thats even better).

I'm not a expert player but can hold my own anytime, but I swear by these shafts as compared to the 3 Pred shafts that I own. For the price I got them for, I could have purchased one Pred shaft, regular price, which I seldom pay anyway.

If by chance, a person was to have to replace a ferrule on an HXT, is the ferrule material available?

What would be the closest material that you would recommend?

Joey mentioned Isoplast and that would be a good choice and also Titan, I believe.

Is there a recommended guide to a repair as there is on both OBs and Preds sites.

If not, and you wanted to use a 1/4" tenon, one would have to figure out a type of light weight material to use in the area that a normal 5/16th tenon would take up.

Epoxy would be my first guess but would most likely be heavier. I could think of one or two lighter materials but then it would be hard to get it in uniformly and wouldn't be as strong either.


Not sure if that is the correct spelling but the last I knew PPG paint dealers could get some little tiny lightweight balls called microspheres I believe. You can get some body filler with the microspheres already in it or you can buy the spheres separately. Should be able to add them to epoxy to shave around thirty percent off the weight I believe.

Problem is there are two things that make a cue low deflection, mass and the ability to move to the side. Some early robot testing originally had the shaft and butt rigidly attached to the robot. With that set-up all shafts tested roughly the same. When they put a layer or two of bubble wrap in to simulate human hands better then the differences in the shafts were much more obvious.

Seems to me that the ferrule and filler on these cues is designed to flex a lot, lowering effective mass. Put a stiff ferrule and filler on the end of that shaft and it will lose some of it's low deflection properties I believe. I do know that ain't the common belief but imagine the opposite. Put an all metal ferrule and very thin tip on two inches of moderately stiff foam rubber like the pool toys or foam pipe insulation and put that assembly on the end of a shaft. Despite the ferrule and tip being far heavier than a normal ferrule it will still be a very low deflection shaft because the tip moves away from the cue ball so easily. This shaft is just an imaginary one to illustrate my point, it wouldn't even be playable. Of course I have turned a few that weren't playable . . . :grin:
 

Blue Hog ridr

World Famous Fisherman.
Silver Member
Good one Hu and ya know, yer right as usual on this stuff. Now that reminds me. When I was building RC air planes, Sig had a product called Micro Balloons, and that is exactly what you have explained. No doubt that they are one and the same and just repackaged for whatever purpose.

They were used because they were light weight and for strength.

Strength mostly when it came to the planes. I did use it with Epoxy and also with fiber glass resin when I was attaching 2 wing halves together with a fiberglass cloth.

An over dose of Micro Balloons and just enuff epoxy in this case and it would probably work just fine.
A straight thru ferrule and you could pack it in uniformly with a Popsicle stick from the top after you loaded the ferrule up. A capped ferrule and you could put enuff in the ferrule itself and the excess will come out the glue relief hole and then you would know that you hopefully had enuff in.

I sold all my RC equipment and supplies but I still may have a jar on the shelf. I will have to dig around in my junk pile soon.


Hmmm, now ya gots me to thinkin. Thanks for jogging the old age memory. I will have to pick up a jar of the Micro Balloons next time I am at the Hobby Shop. It certainly wouldn't hurt to put a small scoop of the Balloons in the next time I use epoxy for a ferrule or any other application for that matter.

Even if a person was so inclined to use Epoxy and balloons to put on a Phenolic break tip.
 
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ShootingArts

Smorg is giving St Peter the 7!
Gold Member
Silver Member
same thing or close cousins

Good one Hu and ya know, yer right as usual on this stuff. Now that reminds me. When I was building RC air planes, Sig made a product called Micro Balloons, and that is exactly what you have explained.

They were used because they were light weight and for strength.

Strength mostly when it came to the planes. I did use it with Epoxy and also with fiber glass resin when I was attaching 2 wing halves together with a fiberglass cloth.

Hmmm, now ya gots me to thinkin. Thanks for jogging the old age memory.


The balloons sound like the same thing or very close cousins. I was thinking the spheres added strength too but we are talking early seventies memories although I did confirm the spheres were still available for a project in the late nineties.

Bought a gallon of the auto body filler with the spheres already in it to do body work on my roundy round car. Decided any bondo was too much weight and the can sat on the shelf until I gave it to somebody that was worried about pretty.

Hu
 

Blue Hog ridr

World Famous Fisherman.
Silver Member
Old age memory sucks eh? Thats me, forgets where he is going and thinks he has gone.

Works ok unless we're talking about having a Pee.
 

ShootingArts

Smorg is giving St Peter the 7!
Gold Member
Silver Member
may december wedding

Old age memory sucks eh? Thats me, forgets where he is going and thinks he has gone.

Works ok unless we're talking about having a Pee.


My great uncle fell into a little oil money. Since his wife had passed he was hotly pursued. Ladies half his age were chasing him for his money but he decided he would go all out and married a little thing barely past one-fourth his age!

Didn't want to kill himself so he set up separate bedrooms. First night after the wedding he knocks on the sweet young thing's bedroom door and performed quite admirably before going back to his room.

About thirty minutes later he knocks on the young lady's door and again performs just fine before heading back to his bedroom.

Another thirty minutes and he is back knocking on her door. Once again he fulfills his marital duties. The young thing is amazed, "Wow, I never expected three times in one night!"

"I have already been here tonight?" Sometimes there are benefits to being old and senile! I hope so anyway, I'm getting there. Now I need an oil well on the back forty.

Hu
 

smashmouth

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
thread title is bad and misleading

i picked up a full hxt cue and shaft for $150, with the kamui tip it's a steal
 

poolplayer2093

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Curious as to the thoughts of anyone who 'd like to chime in.

I had the tip on my HXT skinny shaft replaced this week by a local cue repair guy. While trimming the new tip, the tenon on the HXT shaft snapped. Without consulting me, the repair guy cut a new tenon and installed a new ferrule. For those who may be unaware, the low deflection technology in an HXT shaft is, in fact, the ferrule. It's a hollow, polymer filled design. So, the shaft is no longer low deflection.

I called Players today to find out if the shaft would be repaired or replaced under warranty. I was told it probably would have been if I'd have just sent the shaft and broken tenon/ferrule/tip in for examination. However, since the repair man took it upon himself to fix it, the shaft is no longer covered under warranty.

I'm not particularly mad at anyone involved. Things happen and I think the repair guy tried to do what he could to make the situation right at the time. However, he is apparently unfamiliar with the correct process for replacing a tip on an HXT ferrule.

Similarly, I can understand Players position. There is no way for them to determine what exactly happened. But, I do have the ferrule with the tenon inside and a partially trimmed tip installed. It seems fairly obvious as to what transpired here. And it seems to me like a problem that should be covered under warranty.

So, what do you think? Stop recommending the HXT shaft? Not because it's not a good shaft, but this could happen to any repair guy, unknowingly voiding a customers warranty. At very least any recommendation of these shaft now requires a footnote for when tip replacement time comes around. Or, do I "blame" the repair man? He did a very nice job with the new ferrule and tip by the way, so he seems competent enough. Perhaps he should have recognized he was in unfamiliar territory with this shaft and acted accordingly.

Thoughts?

I really liked the stiffness and taper of the hxt shaft I tried. If I bought one I was gonna have the ferrule replaced like you had done (without your consent). Same bs happens to me with a local repair guy in Fresno
 
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