A ferrule with a .312 bore and .308 tenon would give you a .099 wall on the ferrule with a perfect interference fit for epoxy gap fill.
... interference fit for epoxy gap fill.
A ferrule with a .312 bore and .308 tenon would give you a .099 wall on the ferrule with a perfect interference fit for epoxy gap fill.
Actually the bottom of the threads would be closer to .380.That is true but when you cut the threads..... don't they cut to .375... ??
Kim
The only place the threaded hole will be as thin walled as the through hole is in the bottom of the threads. All the mass in between thread crests = more meat than if the hole were straight 3/8.
That doesn't matter, anyway. What matters is that the ferrule keeps cracking because there's no cap, not because it's threaded. A .125" cap at the end would eliminate the issue.
I'm looking for opinions as to a more suitable materiel to use for the ferrule, or ideas how to solve this problem. Also, would a fiber pad under the tip help? Would a metal ferrule work?
Is the shaft even threaded? It looks like the threads on the shaft are actually just glue. Some of them broke off.
I have to agree with this one after looking a little closer. To me it looks like someone used some threaded stock and filled the threads with the adhesive. Or thought that would act as the keys to hold it on. A little extra stroke to get a few extra rails on a billiard table and disaster.Is the shaft even threaded? It looks like the threads on the shaft are actually just glue. Some of them broke off.