ferruel keeps breaking

scdiveteam

Rick Geschrey
Silver Member
A ferrule with a .312 bore and .308 tenon would give you a .099 wall on the ferrule with a perfect interference fit for epoxy gap fill.
 

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
A ferrule with a .312 bore and .308 tenon would give you a .099 wall on the ferrule with a perfect interference fit for epoxy gap fill.

Perfect interference ?
You mean gap-filled loose fit . How are the vertical grooves even helping the cause ?
That would be a bottom gap waiting to happen b/c there is no mechanical bond .
Epoxy SHRINKS eventually. Wood moves .
Might as well keep the tenon at .312 and bore the ferrule at .312 and score the walls with a 5/16 tap. At least you have a little of epoxy rings around the ferrule.
Better yet keep the bottom of the tenon ( about 1/8 ) at .314. At least you get a press fit down there.

That is true but when you cut the threads..... don't they cut to .375... ??

Kim
Actually the bottom of the threads would be closer to .380.
The hole is still around .330'sh.
 
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qbilder

slower than snails
Silver Member
The only place the threaded hole will be as thin walled as the through hole is in the bottom of the threads. All the mass in between thread crests = more meat than if the hole were straight 3/8.

That doesn't matter, anyway. What matters is that the ferrule keeps cracking because there's no cap, not because it's threaded. A .125" cap at the end would eliminate the issue.
 

whammo57

Kim Walker
Silver Member
The only place the threaded hole will be as thin walled as the through hole is in the bottom of the threads. All the mass in between thread crests = more meat than if the hole were straight 3/8.

That doesn't matter, anyway. What matters is that the ferrule keeps cracking because there's no cap, not because it's threaded. A .125" cap at the end would eliminate the issue.

OK......... I agree .... a ferrule installed that short and that thin should have a cap............... I would not thread it...........

KIm
 

breaknrun

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Question

Is the shaft even threaded? It looks like the threads on the shaft are actually just glue. Some of them broke off.
 

Bob-O-Rama

Registered
I'm looking for opinions as to a more suitable materiel to use for the ferrule, or ideas how to solve this problem. Also, would a fiber pad under the tip help? Would a metal ferrule work?

Note the trapped air pocket - both parts need to be properly coated and mated together slowly to exclude air bubbles. Sometimes this happens when the glue absorbs into the shaft. The missing volume of glue forms a void. In which case you pre-impregnate, and let it cure, so that this does not occur. Its also seems not properly faced, looks like a bandsaw or 60 grit sandpaper rather than a lathe. If you face the ferrule with a bazillion scratches, each scratch can be the seed of a running crack, no matter the material used. Note the orientation of the marks in the wood, and the location / orientation of the bottom crack. And, of course the material used, coarse reinforcing linen and cleavage plane oriented to ensure failure as the tip mushrooms under impact.
 

opiesbro

Big Al Customs
Silver Member
Is the shaft even threaded? It looks like the threads on the shaft are actually just glue. Some of them broke off.
I have to agree with this one after looking a little closer. To me it looks like someone used some threaded stock and filled the threads with the adhesive. Or thought that would act as the keys to hold it on. A little extra stroke to get a few extra rails on a billiard table and disaster.
 
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