brunswick GC2 setup & leveling pics-is this right?
- Thread starter D0N
- Start date
Hi Don,
This is all my opinion so take it for what its worth.
Here is a comparison chart straight from brunswick. I agree with Scott and Trent's descriptions of a true GC2. Only made a few year, looks nearly identical to a 1 except the stain, the feet color and ball box color.
The GC1 had many factory improvements in its lifespan such as adjustable feet. These modifications caused people to begin calling the tables GC2. 40 years of people repeating this misinformation became fact. Very knowledgeable people repeated this stuff for many many year. Even the Kings opinion has changes in the last handful of year on what makes a GC2.
In my experience, this chart is accurate on what makes a GC1 and 2 from a visual perspective.
Again, beautiful table you have. Thanks for sharing.
This is all my opinion so take it for what its worth.
Here is a comparison chart straight from brunswick. I agree with Scott and Trent's descriptions of a true GC2. Only made a few year, looks nearly identical to a 1 except the stain, the feet color and ball box color.
The GC1 had many factory improvements in its lifespan such as adjustable feet. These modifications caused people to begin calling the tables GC2. 40 years of people repeating this misinformation became fact. Very knowledgeable people repeated this stuff for many many year. Even the Kings opinion has changes in the last handful of year on what makes a GC2.
In my experience, this chart is accurate on what makes a GC1 and 2 from a visual perspective.
Again, beautiful table you have. Thanks for sharing.
Attachments
I see that now after digging out my reference chart. WTF were they thinking...that's like black shoes with a brown belt.
Sent from my SM-T830 using Tapatalk
I was going to just have the feet polished but I figured if I'm gonna have that done, I might as well do it all. Off to the polishers to drop this stuff off.
I have a competent mechanic coming here thursday to put the table together and recloth it in simonis 860 electric blue. It's going to look awesome I think!
I have a competent mechanic coming here thursday to put the table together and recloth it in simonis 860 electric blue. It's going to look awesome I think!
Attachments
Last edited:
Beware of what you have done.
All the aluminum was polished then clear anodized from the factory to prevent the bare aluminum from oxidizing. If you have those polished, the anodizing will be removed and you'll be left with bare aluminum which will oxidize rather quicky. I had the rail trim polished and re-anodized to remove years of scratches and dings. It cost $400. The cost to redo the pockets was estimated at $600-$800. With the pockets being cast aluminum vs the trim being extruded aluminum, they couldn't guarantee a proper finish. Old cast aluminum tends to rainbow when re-polished and anodized. I opted for powder coat on the pocket castings and feet of my GCI which presented its own set of issues. If you do not have any major scratches in your castings or aluminum rail trim, I recommend leaving them alone. When these tables were new, the castings and trim did not have a mirror finish like chrome. Your original finish looks as it should. As for the feet, good thing you did not polish them as it would have removed the bronze plating; a distinctive GCII character. As for the nameplate, I'd leave that alone too.
If it interests you, my buddy and I are restoring a couple of GCI's we scored.
https://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=497624
Last edited:
An the cue making industry is any different??? LOL
There are good mechanics out there that do good work and are honest. Most people don't wanna wait and most importantly: don't wanna pay...
I work my ass off to make my clients happy. If I screw something up: I FIX IT. Do some people make me wanna cuss them out? YES, but, I still remain professional and polite.
There are plenty of guys out there who are just "installers" who don't play pool and don't care about their work, yet, it is up to the customer to do their research to know better. Don is a good example of someone who did the right thing for his situation.
We normally agree on most topics Joey, but, I find your post offensive and disrespectful to those of us who take our business serious and work hard to make our clients happy. Not trying to start a war, but, it is just not right to make a "blanket" statement that you did. Stay cool.
Trent from Toledo
Trent, let's take California as a small sample.
There are several hall of fame caliber and world class cue makers here.
Sure, there are a lot hacks.
Now, try to find a mech here to fix your GC 2.
Good luck with that. And believe me, I speak with experience.
A friend of mine is a pool hall owner and former manager of another pool hall.
Setting up an appointment just to re-cloth the tables is a nightmare he said.
Like I said, if there is a good mech who is personable as well, he'd make a killing.
ok no problem
Attachments
Are you sure those castings are Aluminum? Just from
looking at them I don't think they are. I have a set of
the original Aluminum ones in my shop. If my memory
serves me correctly, they only used aluminum in the
early GC1's and after that they were some kind of pot
metal with a plating of some sort. Either nickel plating or chrome.
Your polisher will know or you can just stick a magnet to them.
As for high polished aluminum on Anniversary's and
Centennials , I have never used any type of permanent
coating on the castings. After I am done polishing
(I only do the Anniversary parts myself, far too much
to do on the Centennials for my 1.25 hp Polisher) I
Simichrome all the parts and give the owner a can of it.
Mothers Billet works good to. I am about to reassemble a
Centennial for one of my clients right before Christmas.
Polished Aluminum= you gotta do the work on it or it
will tarnish. Mostly have to be concerned with the parts
you actually touch/ upper castings.
I love to see how much you are learning about your table Don!
It is going to come out awesome!
Trent from Toledo
Example:
Attachments
Last edited:
No one wants to work on pool hall tables after
they been all hacked up.
Mid West, and East Coast= Lots of competent
Mechanics.
You gotta fly someone in!!
I get what you are saying. I just feel like you needed
to explain yourself a little better.
I would work on your table anytime I was out that way!
Trent from Toledo
Last edited:
the polisher said that the pieces are either plated or anodized and not able to be polished and end up with the shiney look I want. I'm now thinking of having everything chromed or buying a set of chrome pockets from amazon for $245... whichever is the better deal.
The castings will most likely be cheaper to
buy than Chrome, unless you know someone
in that line of work. Time is the other issue,
getting someone to do it on the fly is a hard
thing to do, back to that unless you know
someone in that business.
Either way, sounds like you are all in on this
project!! You will figure it out!!! Be sure to
post pics and good luck!
Trent:thumbup:
P.s. The chinese knockoffs you are looking at on amazon require a bit of grinding: I would buy them from Ken Hash at Classic Billiards :
https://www.classicbilliards.net/an...placement-chrome-finish-rail-casting-set.html
Congrats Don ... that will be a beautiful table and play fantastic when set up correctly. I have a GC1 and had every piece of metal chrome plated. Looks great but after 10 years starts to show its age. Good luck and be sure to post up pics when its finished!!
That's what's throwing me off, it should be 1" as all
GC1's & 2's came with 1" slate backing
Went out and measured mine out of curiosity, 1” slate, 1” slate backing here.
.02