Some 14.1 Strategies (Wildhair)

Steve Lipsky

Steve Lipsky

On quest for perfect 14.1
Silver Member
Hi Wildhair. Finally got around to posting some 14.1 tips. Sorry for the delay. My only disclaimer for the below is that there are better straight pool players than I, and advice from them will be more valuable than the information to follow :).

A straight pool rack will go through several phases. The first phase is breaking it apart, and continues until all the balls have at least one available pocket. The second phase is the mid-rack, and eventually you will play this phase on autopilot. The last phase is the end-rack, and assuming you’ve done your job well in phase two, the last phase is the easiest.

I am a big believer in completing phase one as quickly as possible. I feel that leaving clusters towards the end of the rack – even if you have a definite plan to break them up – is dangerous. The oldtimers did this more than the current players, and it’s hard to argue with their credentials. But it’s also difficult to argue that opening them as soon as possible is wrong, because players like Thorsten Hohmann use this method quite effectively.

Here is an example:

START( %AQ2E8%BN1P8%CJ5O4%DL7N1%EZ8V8%FK6P1%GK2N2%HM8K2%IM4O3%JK6L8 %KI2O8%LJ0N2%ML5Q2%NJ5R0%OI6L9%PX9K7 )END

I like playing the 8-ball immediately here. Sure, you could play the 1 to the 5, draw back a bit and play the 8 from there. But… you’re already there! While it may look automatic to play the 1-5-8, what will sometimes happen is you get a little out of line. Now you may be too flat on the 8, or draw back too much on the 5 and have a tough 8. There is also an advantage to keeping the 5 there, as a possible insurance ball.

Note that the above is not the same as this:

START( %AK4E1%BN1P8%CJ5O4%DL7N1%EZ5U8%FK6P1%GK2N2%HM8K2%IM4O3%JK6L8 %KI2O8%LJ0N2%ML5Q2%ND1R1%OF3Q4%PX9K7 )END

Here, the 14 and the 15 are balls you want to get rid of before you break the rack again. They can easily get in the way of the broken balls, blocking pockets and positional lanes. You’d like to remove these balls if possible, and playing the 1-14/15-15/14-8 would probably be the better choice.

Phase two is where the real art of straight pool comes in. You have the opportunity to sculpt the rack into what you want it to look like. As you are exposed to more and more 14.1, and play the game more, you will know what a good end-rack looks like – and you’ll automatically play the mid-rack to leave yourself with a good end-rack. Here is an example of a rack that can be played in many ways:

START( %AM9F1%BK9T4%CJ5O4%DW5X5%EW5Q4%Fa2O6%Ga2I0%HV9K4%IO4K7%JJ8K7 %KG2M0%LH8S0%MM7X4%ND1R1%OF3Q4%PR4P5 )END

Now, you could play that rack and leave yourself with this:

START( %AM9F1%CJ5O4%DW5X5%Fa2O6%Ga2I0%IO4K7%ND1R1%PR4P5 )END

But that’s not so good. There are patterns here, but they all involve a lot of cueball movement. And there’s not a great key ball either.

Now, take the same beginning rack, but leave yourself this:

START( %AM9F1%BK9T4%EW5Q4%HV9K4%IO4K7%MM7X4%PV2H4 )END

From here, you can play the 1-5-13-2-8-9 pattern, with zero cueball movement. It’s important to see that you could have left both of the above end-rack situations, but one is clearly better. Another thing to remember is that you don’t have to agonize during the mid-rack about leaving a perfect end-rack. You may have to think about it more during the learning stages, but all you’re looking to do (from a general standpoint) is leave yourself a 5 or 6 ball pattern that makes sense. You will eventually get to a point that you’ll recognize which balls “don’t belong” in the end-rack, and take care to remove them.

Sometimes, in the middle of a rack, you’ll realize that you’re butchering it, lol. Happens to me a lot ;). It’s important to stand back here, and take some time. You have to figure out a way to get back in line, and leave something salvageable for the end-rack. Don’t just blindly hit balls and figure that you’ll make some crazy shot somewhere down the road to get back in line. You usually won’t.

OK, I will leave it here and wait for any comments. I love talking about this stuff, and also learning from other players, so the more replies, the better ;).

Thanks,
Steve
 
Predictably, an outstanding post from an outstanding straight pooler and game theorist. Well written, well-judged and well presented. Nice job, Steve.
 
Steve Lipsky said:
Hi Wildhair. Finally got around to posting some 14.1 tips. Sorry for the delay. My only disclaimer for the below is that there are better straight pool players than I, and advice from them will be more valuable than the information to follow :).

A straight pool rack will go through several phases. The first phase is breaking it apart, and continues until all the balls have at least one available pocket. The second phase is the mid-rack, and eventually you will play this phase on autopilot. The last phase is the end-rack, and assuming you’ve done your job well in phase two, the last phase is the easiest.

I am a big believer in completing phase one as quickly as possible. I feel that leaving clusters towards the end of the rack – even if you have a definite plan to break them up – is dangerous. The oldtimers did this more than the current players, and it’s hard to argue with their credentials. But it’s also difficult to argue that opening them as soon as possible is wrong, because players like Thorsten Hohmann use this method quite effectively.

Here is an example:

START( %AQ2E8%BN1P8%CJ5O4%DL7N1%EZ8V8%FK6P1%GK2N2%HM8K2%IM4O3%JK6L8 %KI2O8%LJ0N2%ML5Q2%NJ5R0%OI6L9%PX9K7 )END

I like playing the 8-ball immediately here. Sure, you could play the 1 to the 5, draw back a bit and play the 8 from there. But… you’re already there! While it may look automatic to play the 1-5-8, what will sometimes happen is you get a little out of line. Now you may be too flat on the 8, or draw back too much on the 5 and have a tough 8. There is also an advantage to keeping the 5 there, as a possible insurance ball.

Note that the above is not the same as this:

START( %AK4E1%BN1P8%CJ5O4%DL7N1%EZ5U8%FK6P1%GK2N2%HM8K2%IM4O3%JK6L8 %KI2O8%LJ0N2%ML5Q2%ND1R1%OF3Q4%PX9K7 )END

Here, the 14 and the 15 are balls you want to get rid of before you break the rack again. They can easily get in the way of the broken balls, blocking pockets and positional lanes. You’d like to remove these balls if possible, and playing the 1-14/15-15/14-8 would probably be the better choice.

Phase two is where the real art of straight pool comes in. You have the opportunity to sculpt the rack into what you want it to look like. As you are exposed to more and more 14.1, and play the game more, you will know what a good end-rack looks like – and you’ll automatically play the mid-rack to leave yourself with a good end-rack. Here is an example of a rack that can be played in many ways:

START( %AM9F1%BK9T4%CJ5O4%DW5X5%EW5Q4%Fa2O6%Ga2I0%HV9K4%IO4K7%JJ8K7 %KG2M0%LH8S0%MM7X4%ND1R1%OF3Q4%PR4P5 )END

Now, you could play that rack and leave yourself with this:

START( %AM9F1%CJ5O4%DW5X5%Fa2O6%Ga2I0%IO4K7%ND1R1%PR4P5 )END

But that’s not so good. There are patterns here, but they all involve a lot of cueball movement. And there’s not a great key ball either.

Now, take the same beginning rack, but leave yourself this:

START( %AM9F1%BK9T4%EW5Q4%HV9K4%IO4K7%MM7X4%PV2H4 )END

From here, you can play the 1-5-13-2-8-9 pattern, with zero cueball movement. It’s important to see that you could have left both of the above end-rack situations, but one is clearly better. Another thing to remember is that you don’t have to agonize during the mid-rack about leaving a perfect end-rack. You may have to think about it more during the learning stages, but all you’re looking to do (from a general standpoint) is leave yourself a 5 or 6 ball pattern that makes sense. You will eventually get to a point that you’ll recognize which balls “don’t belong” in the end-rack, and take care to remove them.

Sometimes, in the middle of a rack, you’ll realize that you’re butchering it, lol. Happens to me a lot ;). It’s important to stand back here, and take some time. You have to figure out a way to get back in line, and leave something salvageable for the end-rack. Don’t just blindly hit balls and figure that you’ll make some crazy shot somewhere down the road to get back in line. You usually won’t.

OK, I will leave it here and wait for any comments. I love talking about this stuff, and also learning from other players, so the more replies, the better ;).

Thanks,
Steve
Click to expand...

Could you explain to me how to use this bunch of signs in brackets? :confused:
 
Steve Lipsky said:
Don’t just blindly hit balls and figure that you’ll make some crazy shot somewhere down the road to get back in line. You usually won’t.
Thanks,
Steve
Click to expand...

Steve,
Well, you don't have to get personal (I assume you are talking about me :) ).

Thanks for the input, as always very enjoyable.

I have just one small area of disagreement, and that is on the relative level of difficulty of the "end-rack" phase of the game. For me, this has been the HARDEST area to master (I have shared this problem with SJM in the past, hoping for some insight).

When I started my intensive straight pool program 3 years ago, I thought that the "end-rack" would be the easiest part. After 3 years of relatively intensive practice, lessons from some great straight pool minds, and competition with some very excellent players; the problem remains. Picking apart the rack using sound straight pool principles, and clearing the mid-game table are both becoming easier and easier; and are definitely a much stronger area for me than the end-game. STILL I find the majority of my innings are ending on one of the last few balls. I can see the pattern, but I just fail to execute (usually through missing position). It gives me a tremendous amount of satisfaction when I pick apart a significantly difficult rack, but it definitely distresses me to fail to achieve a good break shot when the last 5 or 6 balls are sitting perfectly.

I have spent the last 4 or 5 months working almost exclusively on stroke mechanics and ball-pocketing; so I am anxious to see as I start 14.1 play again this Fall whether my end-game will start to improve (league starts Thursday, and I have a tune-up practice session with one of our mutual friends Wednesday). If you have any suggestions or drills that can improve that "end-rack" game, I'm open.

P.S. - I did heed your opinion on the value of practice runs in straight pool; so in the little 14.1 I have played in the past few months I have started keeping track of any significant runs (it certainly has made me feel better about my game).
 
Great post. You had me worried a bit being eager to go for early break-outs, but then you cleaned it up. Key (I find) is patience on clusters, and recognizing the right secondary break balls, and of course playing good enough position to get there to nudge them apart with insurance balls. I find the hardest part for me is keeping in line on the last few balls where position play is really critical, getting those easy stop shots on the last 3-4 balls ensuring a reasonably comfortable break shot (nothing like missing the break shot and splattering the stack, is there?) Guess I need to look a little further ahead or work on position play some more :).

I'd recommend any of George Fel's books for good writing and advice, though newer information is available. Clearly Capelle's Straight Pool Bible is full of solid information for the 14.1 player, also very helpful is Grady Mathew's tape Break Shots, Key Balls by accustats methinks. It gives a good sense of the speed to not overhit your break shots and lose the cueball uptable, one of my "issues" in the game.

A little curious about how you all tally score in the game. I have always preferred Brunswick tables with the dual spin counters at the foot of the table, and keep rack points on the outside wheels, total game points on the inside wheels. (then your score=15 (minus my current rack points + potentials), and at end of rack, rack scores must equal 14 because one ball is left on the table. 7-7, 8-6, 9-5, 10-4, 11-3, 12-2, 13-1, 14-0). End of each rack you move the points to the inside wheels for total game score. Or a chalkboard or whiteboard set up the same way works as well in a pinch, though messier. I find Capelle's scoring sheets incomprehensible.

In a game I find it easy to count my opponents run, because I am racking and doing score, and 14-0 innings show on the board! I have had 55 run on me by a good 9-ball player before, though I got him last time we played. By myself as practice, I have no idea what my high-run is, because I am lost in the play and not keeping score, just running out, racking, breaking again. I follow George Fel's practice of setting up a break shot, then going from there. Keeping track of racks during those runs of 30s or 40 or so seems to break my concentration and flow so I don't bother. How do you keep track of practice time high runs? Note each rack, or count each ball before getting down on the shot? Just curious how some other straight-pool lovers do it.
 
Willie, I always remember something I read once somewhere, that "Mosconi was a bum until he mastered the last 3 balls". That really says a lot in 14.1. If you don't have Capelle's Straight Pool Bible, do yourself a favor and get it. One really helpful concept for me was "identifying the key ball to get on your key ball" i.e., the last 3 balls, where your position and execution really need to be tight to ensure a reasonable break shot. Your last 2-3 balls should be minimal movement necessary/stop shots so you are guaranteed a lovely break.

What is really holding your game down I can't say from this distance, whether unreliable mechanics/stroke, leading to erratic aiming/positioning doubts, or just mentally trying to bite off more than you can chew in heroics getting position on the last few balls. If you are really demanding 100% of yourself each shot, noting if your aim was center of the pocket or a f&$king half-inch off to the right side, causing unwanted CB travel... all I can say is tighten up on yourself in practice and hold yourself to higher standards, or forever a shortstop slob like so many contented cows remain. I'm for trying the higher standards route, personally! Never know how far we can really go until we try harder, because the past is just not good enough. Tighten it up, stroke straight, hit the part of the pocket you need, and good luck.
 
Kevin said:
How do you keep track of practice time high runs? Note each rack, or count each ball before getting down on the shot? Just curious how some other straight-pool lovers do it.
Click to expand...

Kevin,
I don't count as a good player; but I'm definitely in the running for "straight pool lover." My runs generally are counted by my opponent on the fingers of his left hand (he's missing a finger and a half unfortunately). :) :)

Seriously there are 2 methods that I use. The first is the 300 ball scoring string I have (usually plenty for the runs in my basement). At the end of each rack you slide the beads to the center, and keep the whole run a little separate from your previous total - the same as you would in a game.

The second method is paper and pencil. It would be EASY to show you, a little hard to describe. Make 2 columns on a piece of paper; one wide and one narrow; then draw 15 horizontal lines (if you are going to play 15 racks). The narrow column will be for your running total of balls. The wide column is the balls made each rack. When playing a rack, you write the number of balls made on one line, and at the end of the rack add that total to the running total in the narrow column. Any fouls or scratches are subtracted from the running total box ABOVE the line you are working on; so the total number of balls on any horizontal line in the wide column will always equal 14 no matter how many fouls or scratches have occurred during the rack. If a rack takes multiple innings on your part, the ball total of each inning is entered in the wide column, separated from the other innings by a comma - the total of all innings will still equal 14 at the end of a rack. When a rack is completed, then move to the next horizontal line below - each rack on its own horizontal line, and continue till the game is completed. A large vertical mark can be placed at the start of each of your innings to denote the starting point if you are interested in keeping track of multiple rack runs.

If you are playing with 2 players, then use this system for both players (4 columns) - the total for each rack will still be 14, but it will be the sum of all the numbers in your wide column plus all the numbers in his wide column. I like it a LOT BETTER than using the goofy wheels. You can add another column to your score sheet and keep track of good safeties (GS), bad safeties (BS), misses (M), fouls (F), and scratches (SCR). I've done this for several years, and it gives you some information on the state of your game, and on the strength of your opponents if you keep track for them as well. I used this system keeping score for the Schmidt-Pagulayan straight pool epic at DCC 2 years ago, and it gives you a great idea of how much stronger these players are than the average person I play with. Hope this helps.
 
Last edited:
Well thought out post Steve. I, like you, think the end rack is the easiest. However you have to be very selective in the mid rack as your post implied . For me this is the most difficult part of the rack. If I mess up here the end may not look very pretty as in your diagram or worst. LOL I really dislike moving whitey around so much because you know one little mistake can (and many times will) start a chain of events.

IMO the thought process playing 14-1 should be make all the balls with as little c/b movement as possible. Along with that comming into most angles (rather than across) this holds true especially in the end rack. I realize this can't and not always done for good reason but I think its worth a mention. I sure want my road map to be short and simple.

Rod
 
Last edited:
Kevin said:
Willie, I always remember something I read once somewhere, that "Mosconi was a bum until he mastered the last 3 balls". That really says a lot in 14.1. If you don't have Capelle's Straight Pool Bible, do yourself a favor and get it. One really helpful concept for me was "identifying the key ball to get on your key ball" i.e., the last 3 balls, where your position and execution really need to be tight to ensure a reasonable break shot. Your last 2-3 balls should be minimal movement necessary/stop shots so you are guaranteed a lovely break.

What is really holding your game down I can't say from this distance, whether unreliable mechanics/stroke, leading to erratic aiming/positioning doubts, or just mentally trying to bite off more than you can chew in heroics getting position on the last few balls. If you are really demanding 100% of yourself each shot, noting if your aim was center of the pocket or a f&$king half-inch off to the right side, causing unwanted CB travel... all I can say is tighten up on yourself in practice and hold yourself to higher standards, or forever a shortstop slob like so many contented cows remain. I'm for trying the higher standards route, personally! Never know how far we can really go until we try harder, because the past is just not good enough. Tighten it up, stroke straight, hit the part of the pocket you need, and good luck.
Click to expand...
Hi Kevin
The book you mentioned is The Straight Pool Bible by Babe Cranfield, not by Capelle. And you're right, this is a must have book for 14.1 players.
 
nail said:
Hi Kevin
The book you mentioned is The Straight Pool Bible by Babe Cranfield, not by Capelle. And you're right, this is a must have book for 14.1 players.
Click to expand...

Babe and Larry Moy
 
counting

I've always found keeping track of balls pocketed was easiest using a atring counter. Pencil and paper takes time and you have to pause and add up the numbers. The counters in the rail of the table are ok I guess but they're hard to read. The beads are just there and easy to read with a marker for every ten. I've got 'em strung across the room, two groups of 50. I've only gotten past 50 once (54).
 
Hi, great thread guys. Is there a reason why I can't see the pictures in the first post?

I'm new to the game and have just started studying Capelle's "Play your best straight pool" book.

The most difficult thing for me as a beginner has been setting up a good break shot and making the ball while busting up the rack. It seems even if I get the last ball in a good spot I'm a little "psyched out" about getting the cue ball in the rack and miss the shot. But I've only been playing the game for a couple of weeks. I know the best is yet to come. Already its my favorite pool game.
 
this may be a chicken before the egg kinda thing, and it's not something one can evolve a strategy around,,,but a well run 14.1 rack has a well balanced layout throughout.......it's never "lopsided" looking. this kind of rack gives you the most options during the course of the run.
 
Williebetmore said:
Steve,
Well, you don't have to get personal (I assume you are talking about me :) ).

Thanks for the input, as always very enjoyable.

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,STILL I find the majority of my innings are ending on one of the last few balls. I can see the pattern, but I just fail to execute (usually through missing position). ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,).
Click to expand...

that's why everyone's high run is close to divisable by 14:):):). if you're having problem, clearly you need to examine your 14.1 philosophy. you might be getting out of line which renders your end game strategy useless. so you need to look at patterns with room for error. maybe envision a few end game scenarios that offer you room for error, and upon which you can build other strategies.

one strategy is to leave your setup ball near the bottom rail so that you always have to come off that rail for your breakshot. the beauty of this endgame is that there are usually a few ways to come off that bottom rail. that's your "room for error"

it also helps to find a player whose endgame makes sense to you. because this means you can probably do what he can do, otherwise you wouldn't be able to figure him out.

this is the best part of 14.1. it's like solving a chinese puzzle box.
 
Last edited:
Thanks to Rod, Bruin, & Kevin. I suspect that the end-game SHOULD be the easiest; I just haven't progressed that far. I also definitely feel that my shotmaking and position play need to improve to make it easier. I also feel that the mid-game is probably the area that needs to improve so that my end-game patterns are easier, with more room for error. Its a great game isn't it. Well, I'm off for a day of 14.1 with a former #1 in the world. Should be a great day if I don't make a complete fool of myself.
 
Wealth of Knowledge

Well its exciting to see that others have the same love I do. I am lucky enough to live in an area with a straight pool league. Straight pool is the only game I believe that captures the "artistry" available on a pool table, nudging balls, pattern play, safety valves etc... I have been addicted for 10 years.

I believe the best place for beginners to learn is by getting some accu-stats tapes with graeat commentators (Grady Mathews, Johnny Irvalino, Varner etc...). You can watch how the great player pattern their runs and hear WHY from the commentators. I have probably 100 tapes that I still enjoy watching over and over.

If your beginning pool - start with straight pool. Its the only game that will teach you something about all the others.

Tuna
 
14.1

Mr. Lipsky:

Thanks for a very nice lesson on 14.1 planning. Do you have any other groups of balls that you like to leave for the last 4 or 5 that you use a lot? I think Dick Leonard talked about learning from Joe Canton to leave similar groupings at the end of every rack. He would be like a sculptor, eliminating the balls that were not part of his targeted end rack, nudging balls not only to be break balls but also to be part of this sequence. I know that Sigel on his tape talked a bit about
3 balls sort of lined up near the head of the rack, hitting on straight in and getting the angle on the middle to easily get the angle on the other for a break.

Could you give us some more end of rack sequences to look for? Thanks and good luck in April.
 
bruin70 said:
one strategy is to leave your setup ball near the bottom rail so that you always have to come off that rail for your breakshot. the beauty of this endgame is that there are usually a few ways to come off that bottom rail. that's your "room for error"
Click to expand...

Excellent point, Bruin. This leads to what I was going to post today, about percentages. It's important to not get caught up in what you might think is the right play, because sometimes it's not. Here is a good example:

START(
%IQ1T7%NZ3W8%OO4Q5%PU2S0%QQ5S5%RX2P2%Wh1N8%XP1Q4%Yc2E3%ZP0P8

)END

In this diagram, your end pattern will be 9-14-15. Now, is it better to stop the cueball on the 9 (at A), or draw back for position on the 14 at B? In my opinion, the overwhelmingly better option is to stop your cueball at A. This angle on the 14 is a much better way to get position on the 15 for your breakshot. (In the diagram, the two lines are your positional zone on the breakshot.) From A, you can play the 14, and go up and down the table mostly through the positional zone (either one rail with a touch of left or two rails with a lot of left; I think one rail is better).

Note that if you choose option B, you have to draw the cueball pretty accurately TWICE. From the 9 to the 14, then the 14 to the 15. It might look easy, but you'll get out of line here way more often than you'd like to think.

The above is an example of how knowledge can play a vital role in 14.1. Now... if the 15 and the 14 were close to parallel, then you might not want to go up and down from the 14. This is because playing position from the key ball to the break shot no longer involves an accurate draw. You will be perfect on the break shot with pretty much a stop shot.

Key balls should be flexible, meaning they should allow a certain margin of error to still get on the break shot. Here is an end-rack you will almost never see me leave (if I do, you'll know I've butchered the rack :) ):

START(
%IK8D1%OM7H6%Q[2_1%R]0_1%WM3D4%Xc7E3%YM4D6%Zc5F7

)END

Again, the two arrows show the positional zone. Pretty thin, right? And even if you have a key ball to the key ball (say, a ball by the side pocket where a stop shot allows you to be in this positional zone), you still have to make a nice shot to get good on the break ball!

Sometimes you might be faced with a similar situation:

START(
%IK8D1%Ne2E4%OM7H6%PZ3E9%Q[2_1%R]0_1

)END

From here, play the 9 to the 14, not the other way around. After years of experience (and frustration at how the 9 looks like the right key ball, but yet rarely performs how you think it should), you'll see that the 14 provides much more room for error. Even if you get straight on the 14, you can still achieve a reasonable break shot, which cannot be said if you get straight on the 9.

OK, back to work :). More to follow........

- Steve
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top