1/2" Capped Ferrule. Thoughts?

Michael Webb said:
Anybody think the ferrule might of had stress cracks from threading, and it failed at the bottom where it meets the shaft.
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That was actually my first thought.

There are several variables.

Materials
Methods
Use
More

Always start at the beginning.

I have been watching this thread and thinking.

The stresses built in during assembly is one of the first considerations.

The void is an obvious contributing factor as well.

All very interesting.

The way I see it there are two main stressors in assembly. Those that tend to hold things together, and those that tend to push things apart. Compression vs separation?

I am just observing. Can't claim to have assembly experience. But I do think all variables should be considered.

My experience is more in engine assembly, metal. How the threaded part is seated introduces stress. The threads can be perfect. But the final seating can introduce stress that can cause failure.
.
 
ferrule material wasn't cut far away enough to remove itself from the imprint of the Chuck jaws.
that's exactly what happened
 

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Chopdoc said:
That was actually my first thought.

There are several variables.

Materials
Methods
Use
More

Always start at the beginning.

I have been watching this thread and thinking.

The stresses built in during assembly is one of the first considerations.

The void is an obvious contributing factor as well.

All very interesting.

The way I see it there are two main stressors in assembly. Those that tend to hold things together, and those that tend to push things apart. Compression vs separation?

I am just observing. Can't claim to have assembly experience. But I do think all variables should be considered.

My experience is more in engine assembly, metal. How the threaded part is seated introduces stress. The threads can be perfect. But the final seating can introduce stress that can cause failure.
.
Click to expand...

Very logical.
 
Michael Webb said:
Very logical.
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Thanks. And I was sitting in the local tavern when I typed it. :D

The bar tender is really hot and shows off her cleavage. I was sitting next to my wife trying to stay out of trouble thinking "pool cues, pool cues, pool, cues, pool cues...."

This thread helped keep me out of the dog house.

Oh...and I am seriously interested. :)
 
Chopdoc said:
Thanks. And I was sitting in the local tavern when I typed it. :D

The bar tender is really hot and shows off her cleavage. I was sitting next to my wife trying to stay out of trouble thinking "pool cues, pool cues, pool, cues, pool cues...."

This thread helped keep me out of the dog house.

Oh...and I am seriously interested. :)
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Ok. Pictures of the bartender would help. :wave:
 
JoeyInCali said:
You will have some gap with capped ferrule.
Unless you want the bottom to have a nice glue ring.
Looks like that tenon is ball nosed.
If they use a 5/16 4 flute end mill and flatten the bottom of the hole, then you can a really nice very tight clearance.
But 1/2" long and cap leaves very little gluing area.
Unthreaded ? It will eventually move.
Click to expand...

I never thread or cap a ferrule on a playing cue........... I do ferrules about 5/8 to 1/2 long..... never had a problem. A cap softens the hit. You get a better feel with an uncapped ferrule. And they do not move....


Kim
 
whammo57 said:
I never thread or cap a ferrule on a playing cue........... I do ferrules about 5/8 to 1/2 long..... never had a problem. A cap softens the hit. You get a better feel with an uncapped ferrule. And they do not move....


Kim
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Cap does not soften the hit when the ferrule material is harder than maple.
 
Are those threads or just glue rings ?
That's a lot of threads for short tenon , if they are threads.
I'm partial to 18 tpi.
 

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I have never had a Juma ferrule move... I had 2 crack on a 12 mm cue because the material is thin..............

Kim
 
Kim Bye said:
That is a highly subjective statement Kim..
And by implication your saying that anyone who threads their ferrules spends unnecessary time. I think the wording should be more like: "I dont cap or thread my ferrules and it works great for me" :)
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threading a ferrule and tenon actually makes them thinner and more likely to crack............ I have never had one come loose or move........ I use BSI 5 minute epoxy............ I have done 300 or more



Kim
 
JoeyInCali said:
Cap does not soften the hit when the ferrule material is harder than maple.
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yes it does......... try the extreme......... make a ferrule that is solid and has a tenon of it's own the fits inside a pocket in the shaft....... you will feel the difference...................

Kim
 
whammo57 said:
yes it does......... try the extreme......... make a ferrule that is solid and has a tenon of it's own the fits inside a pocket in the shaft....... you will feel the difference...................

Kim
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I do both.
If you get the blindfold test, you wouldn't be able to tell the difference.

If you make a capped ferrule and you have a lot of gap between the cap and the tenon and you don't use a powdered epoxy, sure you might have a softer hit.


Like most things in cue making , it's not how or what, it's how it's done.

A capped ivory will hit as hard as a tenon through.
 
whammo57 said:
most are 5/16-18 threads............ turn the tenon to .280 and thread it........ drill the ferrule to 5/16 and thread it..........

Kim
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I leave them at .312 and live thread them for 5/16 18 TPI.
At .280 and using a die, you barely have any threads.

You drill the ferrule at .250-.260.
 
Kim Bye said:
That is a highly subjective statement Kim..
And by implication your saying that anyone who threads their ferrules spends unnecessary time. I think the wording should be more like: "I dont cap or thread my ferrules and it works great for me" :)
Click to expand...

ok.... you win....... I was harsh................ but I have found threading to be unnecessary................... I have used all kinds of ferrule material ..... mostly I use Juma........... never had one come loose or move............. I have installed hundreds

Kim
 
The 1/2" uncapped ferrules I tried on some of the old conversion cues we're building have been fantastic.

On the first one I used some old school micarta on a shaft I parted off an old Brunswick Tru-balance.
The combination came out better than expected, and no noticeable difference at .700 length.
 
cueman said:
What ferrule material do you have that much confidence in that is currently available?
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That picture shows that the material failed because it was taking the brunt of the cue ball strike every time............ if you don't cap the ferrule, the tip rests on the center of the cue... the tenon.... and the actual cue takes most of the hit............ the problem here is probably not the material but the installation method

Kim
 
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