1"x5"x32" Maple boards

bdcues

bdcues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Anyone know who is selling Maple boards and not just shafts? Looking for heat dried or combination vacuum and heat but not just vacuum dried, soft, white wood.
Bob bdcues
 
?????????

I have over 200 BF of maple that was kiln dried 2 yrs ago. What are you going to make out of this lumber?
Pinocchio
 
Maple

bdcues said:
Anyone know who is selling Maple boards and not just shafts? Looking for heat dried or combination vacuum and heat but not just vacuum dried, soft, white wood.
Bob bdcues
Click to expand...

Try these people. They had maple on sale a week or so ago. I bought some from them several years ago and was very satisfied with the quality.
http://www.woodworkerssource.com/
 
Maple............

This lumber was cut within miles of my house. It is kiln dried an the dimensions are thickness 1 an 1/8 by width ?x length of 48".... Widths
4 1/2" thru 9" this is really clean lumber........ I can pick you out about
100BF that is straight grain an knot free for $3.75 BF............Where are you located? I will be coming to DCC which would mean free delivery. I also have some other things of interest to a cue maker.......
Pinocchio
 

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pinnochio,do you have an idea on the ring count for those boards.i was wondering what ring count they are after cutting them into 1" squares.
 
????Mason????

Mason the ring count is good but the lumber is flat sawed an it would only be good for flat laminate shafts. Its excellent furniture lumber an takes stain great. I made cutting boards, footstools, spice racks an a few other odds an ends. Its my what do you want for christmas wood pile. I have some turning squares of black walnut that came out of a hotel that was build in 1908 an a pretty good stock pile of cherry which is my favorite. I might add I'm a big fan of your cues keep up the good work.
Pinocchio
 
thanks for the quick reply.if you run across some good rift or quater sawn boards i might go in with you.
 
I got some off of Bell Forrest Products. They were not cheap but pretty nice.
 
Relevance of quarter sawn wood for cues

I am curious. Can someone explain the benefit of quarter sawn lumber with

regards to wood used in pool cues. I understand the value in a wide board

but I dont see the need to use quarter sawn lumber for cues. I am probably

missing part of the equation.
 
The only thing about quarter sawing wood is that you can more easily identify grain count & straightness of grain. With practice & attention to detail, you can do the same with flat sawn lumber. Once round, there's no difference. I prefer flat sawn because it's cheaper & gets completely overlooked by most other cuemakers. I also prefer #2 grade lumber to #1 or select & better. It's #2 because of knots & bark inclusion & such, but as the old men used to tell me, "you can't catch good fish if you aren't getting snagged".
 
i would have thought that the yeild of straight grain usable shafts would be higher on riftsawn and quatersawn boards.learn something new everyday.
 
If the boards are flatsawn well then the grain is aligned fairly parallel to the faces. Once the 1x1 is cut it will look the same as a quartered piece. I make 6-pie laminated shafts ( and butts ). The triangle face that will be on the outside can be picked after the triangle is cut to use the face closest to quartered. And any tree that is sawn through and through will have some boards that are quarter sawn.
 
If the boards are flatsawn well then the grain is aligned fairly parallel to the faces.
I don't think the sawmill people are even remotely concerned in following the lumber's grain.
I wouldn't touch their 1-inch thick boards unless I see them with my reading glasses.
 
I get 99% of shaft maple from flat sawn boards, the rest I mill myself & cut it my own way, specifically for shafts. It's tricky choosing the good flat sawn boards & takes practice, but is not impossible. I get a high yeild of great shafts by choosing my boards. On a very good pallet of maple, which is 1000bf, i'll get 100bf. That's roughly one of every ten boards, or 10% of the boards are suitable for shafts. Of these ten boards, only the best areas of the board will yield suitable shafts & the rest is junk. About 30% of each board chosen for shafts is not useable. Then once the shaft squares are cut & dowelled, another 25-30% is tossed. Anybody who thinks good shafts cost too much should do the work themselves one time. It's no pic-nic at the park.
 
I agree with you Joey. Most of the stuff from the lumber yard is not suitable, as qbilder says, only about 2-3% is usable in the end. But the stuff shown above was privately cue for furniture. Furniture grade lumber has a callout for maximum runout that is still above what you would use for cues. But in cutting that they still try and get the grain as parallel to the faces as they can. It is how most of the big cutters for cue stock start out and even then their yeild is not great and has been the reason so many have quit selling to the cuemakers or just gone out of business over the years. Most maples just don't grow in a straight line upward. If you could actually see the growth rings on those white Predator shafts you might find that they are not all dead straight either. It's part of why cuemakers when to vacuum dried shafts - you can't see the blems.
 
Every one works with in their own parameters and have their own beliefs, be they right or wrong, it's what has worked out for them. So, with this in mind I'm not going to say that one way of accomplishing a task is greatly superior to another's. There are a number of ways to cut up a tree. I understand that flat sawing gives the most yield and least waste. This, of coarse, is what the saw mills would rather produce. For what reason would a saw mill deviate from this parameter if it is costing them yield which equates to money? The main reason for rift and quarter sawn lumber is a higher quality product which is less prone to twist, cup and warp. It's been said that once turned round it can't be discerned if the board was rift or flat sawn and this is probably true, however, before turning round it is easy to see. It's at this stage where the cupping and twisting is taking place. If the boards you are trying to cut into 1X1 squares are not flat and straight before you start how can you expect the grain to be straight in your dowel. It is for this reason that I do not want flat sawn wood in any of my shafts if I can help it.

Dick.
 
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