2 to 1 pantogragh

powerpool

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Can anyone post pictures of a 2 to 1 pantogragh. In using this machine it takes templates. Is there a male and female template or do you use one template and just switch the stylus. Could you also post pictures of the templates. Are the templates made of wood, plastic, brass, if so what is the best design.
 
How about posting a pic of your panto?
Is it a Gorton, a Morris or some other brand?
 
Pantogragh

I am not sure of the brand I got this on eBay last week .I do not know much about the machine. I have done a few inlays and they look tight. I would like to here from some of you that use similar machines. Such as size of stylus, size of end mills, ect. Is there male and female templetes.
 

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At least I know who sniped me on the Gilmore!

Martin


powerpool said:
I am not sure of the brand I got this on eBay last week .I do not know much about the machine. I have done a few inlays and they look tight. I would like to here from some of you that use similar machines. Such as size of stylus, size of end mills, ect. Is there male and female templetes.
 
Gilmore

It didn't see much bidding action with just the two of us as bidders. Is Gilmore the maker?
 
powerpool said:
It didn't see much bidding action with just the two of us as bidders. Is Gilmore the maker?

Yes Sir, Byron Gilmore.
What did it sell for?
 
Last edited:
price

I got this on eBay for $660 shippied. Any help with my original questions would be great.
 
powerpool said:
I got this on eBay for $660 shippied. Any help with my original questions would be great.
There are some places that sell templates. There is nothing wrong with the ready made templates, just you dont get the originality of custom made ones. I think it would be best to draw something original and have the templates made by a machine shop with CNC capability. Also it is better to have seperate templates for pockets and inlays. Using different sized styluses will work, but it is much harder and not fool proof. When you go to the shop, let them know the ratio is 2:1 and also your cutter size and stylus size.

Tracy
 
powerpool said:
I got this on eBay for $660 shippied. Any help with my original questions would be great.

The templates are all based with a 3/8 and 1/4 inch stylist. The ones for this machine are all the same template and you change the stylist. Ned Morris is no longer offering templates for this machine but you can get in touch with Prather or Cueman, they might be able to help. Let me know if you ever get rid of this machine.
 
Price

Do you by any chance know what this machine sold for or what the templates should cost. Also what size endmill is the correct size if there is one.
 
powerpool said:
Do you by any chance know what this machine sold for or what the templates should cost. Also what size endmill is the correct size if there is one.

I paid $1500.00 for mine, Templates are about $100.00 each and up. I have mine set up to use 1/32 and1/16. It can't really use a smaller cutter, not enough RPM's on the router.
 
Mike who did u buy yours from.............i can make small templates,if anybody wants some...........
 
Michael Webb said:
I paid $1500.00 for mine, Templates are about $100.00 each and up. I have mine set up to use 1/32 and1/16. It can't really use a smaller cutter, not enough RPM's on the router.
When you say 1/32 and 1/16th. These are your endmills. If so why the 2 sizes.
 
powerpool said:
When you say 1/32 and 1/16th. These are your endmills. If so why the 2 sizes.

I use the 1/32" for diamond shapes and use different stylist and a razor knife to get sharper inlays, I use the 1/16 for larger jobs where I can do some hogging out without breaking the cutter. With this machine, it's mainly trial and error. I have had it about four years, I think I have it down pretty good right now. My biggest concentration has been on my Vee Points, I really don't like inlays in a cue but some people just have to have the them.
 
Resharpened endmills

Michael Webb said:
I use the 1/32" for diamond shapes and use different stylist and a razor knife to get sharper inlays, I use the 1/16 for larger jobs where I can do some hogging out without breaking the cutter. With this machine, it's mainly trial and error. I have had it about four years, I think I have it down pretty good right now. My biggest concentration has been on my Vee Points, I really don't like inlays in a cue but some people just have to have the them.
Mike do you use resharpened endmill. I see that they are much cheaper. Is there any drawbacks to these used bits.
 
powerpool said:
Mike do you use resharpened endmill. I see that they are much cheaper. Is there any drawbacks to these used bits.

I don't sharpen them, I just buy new ones. You'll learn the true meaning of,
Gentle pressure.
 
Size of pool cue

Michael Webb said:
I don't sharpen them, I just buy new ones. You'll learn the true meaning of,
Gentle pressure.
At what size do you put the inlays into the cue. At .880-.900 ? This is at the joint. Also is there a best glue for the inlays.
 
powerpool said:
At what size do you put the inlays into the cue. At .880-.900 ? This is at the joint. Also is there a best glue for the inlays.

I put inlays in when the cue is a total of .020 oversize. After the inlays are installed I make one last .010 pass on the butt bringing it to final size. This gives you more latitude in the use of wider inlays in your cue. With the use of smaller cutters, 1/32 and smaller, the depth of cut is critical as the cutter is only three times longer than it is wide. You want the cue to be as close to final size as possible before you cut your pockets to help eliminate the inlays from getting wiped out on the sides when making your final cut and sanding. As is, about .625 is the widest inlay that can be put into a prong without the use of a fourth axis and round bottomed inlays.

Dick
 
Gentle pressure

Michael Webb said:
I don't sharpen them, I just buy new ones. You'll learn the true meaning of,
Gentle pressure.

Mike, how do you control the depth of cut?
is there a way to set how deeply you cut,
or is it like the old engraving machines, controlled by how
hard you push down?

thanks
Dale
 
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