Fatboy said:
on a couple of mid 70's Gus cues I have some shafts with 3 to 5 growth rings and terrible run out, the shafts would be rejects at K-Mart cues, however they play great and are perfectly straight some 30 years later. they are 100% the origonal shafts and the 2nd shaft on some of the cues is a good shaft and in some cases they are both very poor shafts from a grading stand point but play great. So here is my question, I know Gus didnt have a shortage of shafts, he certainly didnt sell second rate cues, what did he see that others dont? when he chose that shabby looking wood?? He clearly knew something. So is all this grading ll that meaningful for the performance of the cue or just a way for a guy selling wood to charge cue makers more???
thanks in advance for any answeres about Gus? I have asked Barry thi.s but I'm open to other opinions or theorys about the importance of grading wood-is it a excuse to charge more or does it effect playability??? i'm a solid player(over 20 years) and own alot of cues so I have my opinions too., i'm very interested in wood, I awalys have been, the artistic side of cues takes a back seat behind, my love of wood ,cue construction, and material choices.
Great Post Sir,
Can't speak for everyone, and I know there will be afew of the same guys who always troll this forum and wait for a cuemaker to say something so they can come on and Say, WELL I'D NEVER USE THAT ON MY CUES, I ONLY USE THE BEST, THAT DOESN"T CUT IT IN MY SHOP, BLAH BLAH, same guys who really have 1 and a half lathes and 8 shaft blanks to there name, and front like they have an expanded knowledge of wood and cue making were truth be told, GOOGLE, and ask Jeeves is a click away, and they get to sound like they know what there talking about. And when they do ridicule, they only say, THATS NOT WHAT I HEARD, THATS NOT WHAT I LEARNED, I WOULD TRY THE OTHER METHOD, EXT...............
There is no best shafts, the best shafts are the ones that don't warp when properly taken care off and cared for. If someone wants a shaft with alot of whip/flex, they're getting a 14-16in taper, and a shaft with no more than 10 gpi and as little as 4-6 unless otherwise specified by the buyer. Stiff shafts, 8+ gpi, more if specified. and yes there is other ways to effect stiff/whippy, Ferrule length, tip ect........
And Fat boy, until you get up to 12-14 growth rings and higher, or depending on the weight/density of the shaft wood, then the higher gpi count, and grading truely comes into play.
The other importance of shaft appearence is just that "appearence". Think about this:
You have a beautiful $18,000 ebony and Ivory black boar/gina/manzino ext.....now put two shafts that are/have, dark, many suger marks, spots, birdseyes, bad looking run off, maybe even a huge mineral spot in the middle of it. Now that doesn't sound or look right does it?