3/8x10 tenon thread

Guerra Cues

Guerra Cues

I build one cue at a time
Silver Member
Hello,
I am used to thread 5/16x18 tenons and have no problems, but the issue came up because Mezz uses 3/8x10 as well Eric Crisp cues.
Eric has a router setup so doing tenons for him is a breeze :thumbup:
Well, I do not have a router yet, so is there a manual process to do that thread, is there such a thing as 3/8x10 tenon threader?
 
Being that the 10 thread is so much deeper than an 18 thread I would venture to say you need live tooling to cut the thread. I can't say for sure as I have never tried to die cut a 10 tpi thread in wood.

John
 
Last edited:
BENFICA said:
Hello,
I am used to thread 5/16x18 tenons and have no problems, but the issue came up because Mezz uses 3/8x10 as well Eric Crisp cues.
Eric has a router setup so doing tenons for him is a breeze :thumbup:
Well, I do not have a router yet, so is there a manual process to do that thread, is there such a thing as 3/8x10 tenon threader?
Click to expand...

Are you actually looking to make a wooden tenon that has 3/8-10 threads cut on the OD or are you talking about using a 3/8-10 metal bolt to connect the handle to the forearm?...JER
 
I don't think you can do it, Tony. The threads are so deep, as Johnny mentioned, that you'll tear up the tenon trying to die cut it. You may contact Chris Hightower as he sells a threading attachment for his machines that works perfectly for this kind of thing. It comes equipped for a Dremel and has the thread cutting bits included, but it can be used with a router as well if you get a thread bit for it. Seems costly on the upfront, but once you use live tooling to cut wood threads, you'll never use a die cutter again. The difference is night & day.
 
drill and tap your 5/16-18 die to 3/8-10 Tony and it should be fine.that is what i did to mine about a year and a half ago and it makes threads just fine.
 
Thanks for all the awesome info guys. I will follow Eric's suggestion and order the attachment from CH.
Dave Sutton... Turn on your spell checker!!! :lol:
 
couple of questions

masonh said:
drill and tap your 5/16-18 die to 3/8-10 Tony and it should be fine.that is what i did to mine about a year and a half ago and it makes threads just fine.
Click to expand...

Mason
What ID is the ferrule when you tap?
What is the od of the tenon when you thread?

I am curious.

John
 
.308" and the tenon is a hair under .350" when i thread.if you go any bigger than .350" you will have no threads.trust me i tried.i also cut about 1/4" of the end of the tenon down to .310" or so and only tap 3/4" way into the ferrule so the end is just snug with wood.i don't think you could thread the entire tenon with out live tooling.it works pretty well,and while i like the idea of live tooling and the threads look great,i think it is overkill.

i know some excellent cue makers whose cues play as good as any out there who still use the sleeve and/or slam method.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the info I am going to have to go back to the lab and let the mad scientis go wild.

John
 
?

Martin


BENFICA said:
Hello,
I am used to thread 5/16x18 tenons and have no problems, but the issue came up because Mezz uses 3/8x10 as well Eric Crisp cues.
Eric has a router setup so doing tenons for him is a breeze :thumbup:
Well, I do not have a router yet, so is there a manual process to do that thread, is there such a thing as 3/8x10 tenon threader?
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
3/8-10

12.75mm ferrule and a 3/8-10 tenon leave a wall thickness of .063. Do not try that with ivory or anything soft. Don't want to think about what happens at 12.5mm.
DZ cues has a great page on compression dies. http://www.dzcues.com/ferrules.htm
I vote for live cut threads. Not only for better strength, but much less dead space(epoxy/glue) in a very important part of any cue.
 
cutter said:
12.75mm ferrule and a 3/8-10 tenon leave a wall thickness of .063. Do not try that with ivory or anything soft. Don't want to think about what happens at 12.5mm.
DZ cues has a great page on compression dies. http://www.dzcues.com/ferrules.htm
I vote for live cut threads. Not only for better strength, but much less dead space(epoxy/glue) in a very important part of any cue.
Click to expand...

Been doing it for 6-7 years with great results. The thin wall is the purpose behind the method. However, your reservations hold merit. A really good melamine and Mason's micarta are the only things I have found that are strong enough to use. Everything else breaks & cracks pretty quickly, especially if you are breaking with it. I tighten them down with robogrip pliers & have never feared twising the tenon off. As much as I trust my adhesives, nothing beats a good mechanical bond.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top