8 Ball Analyze: Rack #16
- Thread starter mohrt
- Start date
stripesfor me - I'd begin with a rail first 9 into the 10 combo.
then should have the 15 ball cut which could break out the only problem, the 11.
then depending on the breakout success, the 11 or alt the 13 in the side or the ace in the hole, if needed, is the 9 you left by the top corner on shot number one.
should be smooth sailing from there with an oppty for either an 8 ball breakout or shape.
best,
brian kc
p.s. the 1st shot I'm suggesting, the rail first 9 into the 10 isn't too risky to shoot. If you're more comfortable, a swerve shot will do the job. :wink:
then should have the 15 ball cut which could break out the only problem, the 11.
then depending on the breakout success, the 11 or alt the 13 in the side or the ace in the hole, if needed, is the 9 you left by the top corner on shot number one.
should be smooth sailing from there with an oppty for either an 8 ball breakout or shape.
best,
brian kc
p.s. the 1st shot I'm suggesting, the rail first 9 into the 10 isn't too risky to shoot. If you're more comfortable, a swerve shot will do the job. :wink:
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I like solids. The 1-11 cluster determines the game, and there are a lot more ways to get on the right side when shooting solids than shooting stripes.
Plus, solids controls the 8 ball's natural pocket.
There aren't a lot of safety options here. While both suits are runnable I think solids is easier.
Plus, solids controls the 8 ball's natural pocket.
There aren't a lot of safety options here. While both suits are runnable I think solids is easier.
1. Send CB to foot rail and into the 9-10 combo. 9 ball should drift up right long rail, so should CB.
2. Pocket 9 into upper right corner. Send CB into foot rail and out toward lower side pocket.
3. Pocket 12 into lower left corner with 7:30 draw. Pull CB out for cut on 15.
4. Pocket 15 in lower right corner. Drift CB toward left side rail for follow shot on 14.
5. Pocket 14 in lower left corner with follow. Leave CB near bottom side pocket for 13 in upper let corner.
6. Pocket 13 in upper left corner with soft follow. Drift CB into space between 8 and 1 balls.
7. Pocket 11 into lower right corner with draw. Pull CB back for 8 ball shape in lower left corner OR draw CB off rail into 7 ball for 8 ball in lower side.
Not easy, by any means. Relies on some touchy draw shot for position. I prefer to use follow for those, but the pattern and layout requires draw here.
2. Pocket 9 into upper right corner. Send CB into foot rail and out toward lower side pocket.
3. Pocket 12 into lower left corner with 7:30 draw. Pull CB out for cut on 15.
4. Pocket 15 in lower right corner. Drift CB toward left side rail for follow shot on 14.
5. Pocket 14 in lower left corner with follow. Leave CB near bottom side pocket for 13 in upper let corner.
6. Pocket 13 in upper left corner with soft follow. Drift CB into space between 8 and 1 balls.
7. Pocket 11 into lower right corner with draw. Pull CB back for 8 ball shape in lower left corner OR draw CB off rail into 7 ball for 8 ball in lower side.
Not easy, by any means. Relies on some touchy draw shot for position. I prefer to use follow for those, but the pattern and layout requires draw here.
6 in the corner. It's not an easy shot but especially on a small table I think it's worth shooting. The original poster notes that the 6 ball goes.
Stripes is arrayed better but for the 1-11. So you need to somehow break out the 11 (risky given where the 7 and 8 are - you may not have a pocket), or get on the short side of the 11 (also tough as there's no easy shape to get there). Then after those heroics you have to get yourself back down on the short side of the 8. There's a lot that can go wrong.
Probably 6 ball. See my note in opening post, 6 ball goes.
Right. Question: Does the 8 go past the 3? I assumed it did not, but if it does that makes stripes a little easier.
If you're looking solely for the run out, I'd go with solids. I would favor stripes except for the 11 ball. I'd guess that would stop the run more times than not. Further, you'd have to shoot the 11 at or near the end of the rack so if you don't get it, you've left you're opponent an open table.
Solids presents some challenges as well but at least if you get out of line or miss earlier with solids, you have some protection against your opponent running out. I'd go 6, 5, 4, 3, 7, 1, 2, 8. Solids protection is with the 7 and 1 so if I get in trouble at that point, I've still got some options. I can see a potential safety by hiding the CB behind the 8 when shooting the 7.
Solids presents some challenges as well but at least if you get out of line or miss earlier with solids, you have some protection against your opponent running out. I'd go 6, 5, 4, 3, 7, 1, 2, 8. Solids protection is with the 7 and 1 so if I get in trouble at that point, I've still got some options. I can see a potential safety by hiding the CB behind the 8 when shooting the 7.
Solids... The 6 ball goes and it looks like there is a little angle on it which is perfect. I make the 6 ball and stun the cueball bumping the 13 ball gently hoping to tie it up on the 12 ball. Then I shoot the 5 ball, make the 3 ball and play to go into the 8 ball and 7 ball(preferably trying to just nudge the top of the 7 ball and falling on the 1 ball in the side. Do that and game is over
But does the CB pass the 15?
Yes what I meant by "6 ball goes" is first shot.
Still think that is a bad way to start a rack... with a touchy long distance thread the needle shot.
It's not ideal. But given the choice between that or saving your trouble ball for the end (which you kind of have to do with stripes), I'll take solids.
JC
Coos Cues
A worse way to start the rack is with a 5 or 6 ball failed run out on the stripes. Make the six and it's clear sailing. Miss it and who knows where it ends up or what else it blocks. Worth the risk if you feel that you're hitting them good.
JC
• Your first shot is kind of testy, but you probably should shoot rather than safe in a difficult rack that's unlikely to get run. So your viable shots are:
- Railfirst 9/10
- Long straight 6 in corner
- 15 in the side or cross-side
IMO these are in order of difficulty. In other words, though it sounds absurd on paper, the railfirst 9-10 is actually easier than a long straight 6. With the 10 nearly hanging, it's no more difficult to make the combo than to railfirst the 9 straight in the hole, which I feel is at least 90%
• Although it's touchy, I want to fall on the 15 roughly where the righthand break skidmark is, and then sink it with low right to send the cue ball through the gap between the 11 and the rail. Might not land near the skidmark after my opening shot, so I shoot the 9 next to get there.
11 then goes in the same hole as the 15.
• If you err on the side of too much draw/spin you might just run into the 11 and get lucky. You can try a similar shot with the 14, but the window is tighter.
• As a last-ditch desperate move you can try to use the 12, but otherwise that's my ball to fall on the underside of the 8.
So to summarize, stripes, because the first shot is easier and I have a few options for the cluster.
- Railfirst 9/10
- Long straight 6 in corner
- 15 in the side or cross-side
IMO these are in order of difficulty. In other words, though it sounds absurd on paper, the railfirst 9-10 is actually easier than a long straight 6. With the 10 nearly hanging, it's no more difficult to make the combo than to railfirst the 9 straight in the hole, which I feel is at least 90%
• Although it's touchy, I want to fall on the 15 roughly where the righthand break skidmark is, and then sink it with low right to send the cue ball through the gap between the 11 and the rail. Might not land near the skidmark after my opening shot, so I shoot the 9 next to get there.
11 then goes in the same hole as the 15.
• If you err on the side of too much draw/spin you might just run into the 11 and get lucky. You can try a similar shot with the 14, but the window is tighter.
• As a last-ditch desperate move you can try to use the 12, but otherwise that's my ball to fall on the underside of the 8.
So to summarize, stripes, because the first shot is easier and I have a few options for the cluster.