8 Ball Analyze: Rack #8
- Thread starter mohrt
- Start date
IMO, I would go with Stripes. Start with the 9Ball and work way up to break the 10Ball out with the 12Ball or 11Ball.
Assuming the 4 goes clean in the side, there's no reason to NOT take low/stripes. The hardest shot would be running the 1 up the table but given you have two balls in the bottom corner, you can pocket either one and leave yourself shape on the 1 for that shot.
I'm putting 4 down first, come back for the 7. Get a shot on the 1 ball up table. Take the 2 get on the 3. Come back for the 5. Get position on the 6, possibly nudging the 9. Shape for the 8 from the 6 should be automatic.
If you have to take the 5 from the other side of the 12, play for shape on the 6 in the side. It's tight but goes.
If you have to take the 5 from the other side of the 12, play for shape on the 6 in the side. It's tight but goes.
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the cluster break on the 10 is the most important shot.
the worst situation you could be at when playing 8-ball is when you attempt to run-out, not be able to shoot the last ball before the 8, and have a hard time figuring out how to shoot your remaining ball because your opponent starts to make fun of you with safety plays.
The easy solution:
Cut the six in the side with lower left english, bringing the CB level with the 2
Bank the two in the opposite corner leaving the CB just south of the six's current position.
Cut the 4 in the side (sending the 10 to the middle of the foot rail and the one about 6 inches to the right of where it is now.
Seven in the corner, one in the side, Cut the three into the corner bringing the CB back just southeast of center table
Kill shot on the five into the same corner as the three and you're straight in on the eight in the righthand corner.
Ability-wise I could cut the six the side...after that it's scotch doubles. Your turn, partner. :grin:
Cut the six in the side with lower left english, bringing the CB level with the 2
Bank the two in the opposite corner leaving the CB just south of the six's current position.
Cut the 4 in the side (sending the 10 to the middle of the foot rail and the one about 6 inches to the right of where it is now.
Seven in the corner, one in the side, Cut the three into the corner bringing the CB back just southeast of center table
Kill shot on the five into the same corner as the three and you're straight in on the eight in the righthand corner.
Ability-wise I could cut the six the side...after that it's scotch doubles. Your turn, partner. :grin:
You lost me at the bank. No thanks, there are easier solutions sitting here :smile:
that cut at the six to the side would be a pretty risky shot, IMO. i mean, you dont wanna miss your first shot in an 8-ball game unless the purpose is for safety play. well, that's just me. :smile:
the beauty of 8 ball - 
A thinking players game.
This is the type of thread pool forums should be about - Education!!!!
A thinking players game.
This is the type of thread pool forums should be about - Education!!!!
Float the 3 in the corner. Cut the 5 in the side and come back off the lower short rail, leaving the CB a little north of where it is now for shape to cut the 4 in the side and break out that gnarly 1/10 cluster. From there all the balls are open and good things should happen. (Except sometimes they don't. But that's pool.) The trickiest ball is the 6. I'd never try to shoot it in the side, which is a tiny pocket. But with a couple of hangers in the lower left pocket you should be able to get shape on the 6 in the lower right corner.
If you are going to break up the 1/10, you have to have a plan. The only way this is going to break clean is by hitting the 1 ball from up table. Otherwise, the 10 may just roll into more trouble down by the 7-2. You can't just take a whack and see what happens. Your options are thin on getting this cluster broke out properly. Even if you do get it broke out (and you took stripes), are you going to have a next shot? No insurance balls!
Since there is a pattern to get out without bothering the cluster, (shoot the 1 up in far corner), I'd prefer that plan any day.
Since there is a pattern to get out without bothering the cluster, (shoot the 1 up in far corner), I'd prefer that plan any day.
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For me 8 ball is all about playing the percentages.
If I could shoot the 4 and force the cue ball over between the 9 and 6 to shoot the 6 in the corner next I would go for the out with the 2-7 being a good place to get a safety if the plan goes awry. I also like shooting the 4 in the side and draw the cue ball back close to where it is. Then play safe by taking the cue ball to the head rail at or just inside the chalk to bump the 7 to the rail and hide the cue ball behind the 7 and 2. Even if my oponent can make a hit I like my chances from there. I do not see a ball that could easily be kicked in from that position.
If I could shoot the 4 and force the cue ball over between the 9 and 6 to shoot the 6 in the corner next I would go for the out with the 2-7 being a good place to get a safety if the plan goes awry. I also like shooting the 4 in the side and draw the cue ball back close to where it is. Then play safe by taking the cue ball to the head rail at or just inside the chalk to bump the 7 to the rail and hide the cue ball behind the 7 and 2. Even if my oponent can make a hit I like my chances from there. I do not see a ball that could easily be kicked in from that position.
Something about the solids in these layouts....
1. 3 ball, inside, lower left corner pocket. Leave CB near foot spot.
2. 5 ball, low right-stun, upper right corner pocket. Leave CB above 4-10.
3. 7 ball, slight draw, lower right corner pocket. Leave CB along bottom rail for 1 ball.
4. 1 ball, soft follow, lower left corner pocket. Follow CB into 10, pushing 4 over side pocket.
5. 2 ball, medium follow, lower right corner pocket. Take CB one rail and shoot for gap between 9 and 6.
6. 6 ball, stop or outside, upper right corner pocket. Leave CB off top rail to be able to use draw.
7. 4 ball, slight draw, bottom side pocket. Draw CB slightly toward middle table.
8. 8 ball, stop, upper left corner pocket.
Opening shot requires the only stroke, but you can easily recover if it's not hit perfectly. Key to rack is getting as close as possible to straight on the 7 ball.
1. 3 ball, inside, lower left corner pocket. Leave CB near foot spot.
2. 5 ball, low right-stun, upper right corner pocket. Leave CB above 4-10.
3. 7 ball, slight draw, lower right corner pocket. Leave CB along bottom rail for 1 ball.
4. 1 ball, soft follow, lower left corner pocket. Follow CB into 10, pushing 4 over side pocket.
5. 2 ball, medium follow, lower right corner pocket. Take CB one rail and shoot for gap between 9 and 6.
6. 6 ball, stop or outside, upper right corner pocket. Leave CB off top rail to be able to use draw.
7. 4 ball, slight draw, bottom side pocket. Draw CB slightly toward middle table.
8. 8 ball, stop, upper left corner pocket.
Opening shot requires the only stroke, but you can easily recover if it's not hit perfectly. Key to rack is getting as close as possible to straight on the 7 ball.
That's why I don't like stripes here. A cluster break to bust out the 10 will likely leave the 10 on the right end rail or with a pocket blocked by the 2 or 7.
Solids or stripes?
Solids. 4 into the side, position for 1-7 combo, leaving angle to position for 3 ball next. Shoot one off the rail so when it hits the 7 it will slide past the 2 leaving the 2 open in the corner. Shoot 3 upper left corner, positioning for the 5 into the bottom right leaving angle to get onto 6. Shoot 6 into bottom right corner, play 1 and 2 however needed to get back center table for the 8.
You may be right, but I'm pretty sure I'm getting a shot on the 10 by breaking it out off of the 12. If not then I'm playing a safe. It looks like a run out to me.