8 Ball Analyze: Rack #8

Hits 'em Hard said:
Solids. 4 into the side, position for 1-7 combo, leaving angle to position for 3 ball next. Shoot one off the rail so when it hits the 7 it will slide past the 2 leaving the 2 open in the corner. Shoot 3 upper left corner, positioning for the 5 into the bottom right leaving angle to get onto 6. Shoot 6 into bottom right corner, play 1 and 2 however needed to get back center table for the 8.
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1 doesn't go by the 10 without bumping something.
 
GeoEnvi said:
That 1-7 combo was wishful thinking anyway. More often then not, that 1 ball blocks the 2 after sinking the 7, or drifts to the end rail.
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That's why if you read what I wrote I deliberately said to take the one off the rail so it slides out past the 2.
 
Hits 'em Hard said:
That's why if you read what I wrote I deliberately said to take the one off the rail so it slides out past the 2.
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It won't slide out past the 2.... it's going to hit the 2.

And block it.... or IF you hit the 1-7 hard enough.... the 1 moves the 2 toward the head spot and the 1 toward the end rail.

Doesn't matter though.... your CB will likely be jammed up by the 10.
 
GeoEnvi said:
It won't slide out past the 2.... it's going to hit the 2.

And block it.... or IF you hit the 1-7 hard enough.... the 1 moves the 2 toward the head spot and the 1 toward the end rail.

Doesn't matter though.... your CB will likely be jammed up by the 10.
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Leave yourself on a straight line with the one to pass the 10 and hit the rail. Now apply draw to the cue ball to position for the 3. The one with gain top spin and when it hits the seven will continue on past the 2. And even if the one slightly bumps the two, it will be on the bottom side, still leaving the one not locked up with the two. And who cares if the one is on the end rail when both your last balls are unobstructed.
 
I believe the 10 ball is the key to selecting a group in this rack. There are very few opportunities to break the 10 ball out. Furthermore, if you take stripes from this position you will have to hit the 10 ball with enough force to travel it past the blockers in the corner. I don't like smashing clusters.

I chose solids and deal with the cluster early.
 
Why would you choose a suit with a cluster (stripes) when you can choose a suit where every ball has a pocket (solids)?
 
GeoEnvi said:
That's why I don't like stripes here. A cluster break to bust out the 10 will likely leave the 10 on the right end rail or with a pocket blocked by the 2 or 7.
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My first thought was when making the 12 the move of the 10 woud have to be from off the rail. You could get it in the right corner or the side pocket.
 
It looks like the 2 will actually pass the 7, is that correct?

Solids are definately the balls to shoot here, that 10-ball breakout is a sucide shot I just love my opponent playing themselves into.
 
2, 1, 4, 7, 3, 5, 6, 8.
OR 4, 7, 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, 8. Depending on your ability and comfort level. Anyone who shapes for a bank on that out gets the 8. No offense but that out is not so difficult one needs to play any risky shots imo.
 
Puzzle

4327658

A slight draw from the 4 gets you on the 3. Stop 3 and get straight on 2. Stop on 2 gives a slight angle on 1 up table. Taking the 1 off gives a little angle on the 7. Two rails off seven to get close to the 6. Roll 6 in side and you fall on the 5 for the corner. Stop and you are on the 8.

Only cue ball movement was from the 7 to get close to the 6.
 
Shoot the 2 and come out ot the middle for the 4 in the side. Make the 4 and move the 10 ball away from the 1. You should have the 7 or the 3 after you free up the 1 ball. The only other problem after that would be the 6 ball which I would try to pocket in the side. Its not too hard of a out ;)
 
mia said:
Assuming the 4 goes clean in the side, there's no reason to NOT take low/stripes. The hardest shot would be running the 1 up the table but given you have two balls in the bottom corner, you can pocket either one and leave yourself shape on the 1 for that shot.
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It looks like the 1 goes to me too but in case it doesn't, I still think solids is the way to go. I simply can't ignore the fact that breaking up the 1/10 cluster affords solids an immediate shot and not stripes. If you have to break up the cluster on a separate shot, you can use the 3 to set-up for a nice angle on the 5 in the side. That way will allow you to go to the end rail and into the cluster with a near-guarantee for a shot on the 2/7.
 
Surprised at all the shooters putting the 6 ball in the side. Doesn't look like a gimme to me, even with shallow shelf drop. At the very least, you are going to have to hit position.
 
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