8ft versus 9ft Diamond Pro am (room 17'6" x 14')

15' x 20' for a 9 ft. table is just enough with little clearance, I don't play on anything smaller so it's all I know.
Any less is too tight, like playing in a shoe box, claustrophobic and the acoustics suck.

Otherwise utilize what you have and be happy with it.
The math is easy enough to calculate for any table with an average 58'' cue.
 
That chart is not quite accurate and will result in some limitations. We tell our clients 17’6” x 13’6” for an 8 foot table and 18’6” x 14 for a 9 foot table, and even that is pushing it just a little bit, requiring a very short backstroke if the cue ball is near frozen on the cushion, especially on the width, where you’d really like to have 14’6” width for a 9 foot table.
My room is 15' wide and I bump the cue on the wall sometimes.

Folks who come over and have long cues bump it more times.

14' for a 4.5x9 is a 'no way'.
 
My room is 15' wide and I bump the cue on the wall sometimes.

Folks who come over and have long cues bump it more times.

14' for a 4.5x9 is a 'no way'.
15 feet width with a standard length 58 inch cue should allow a 7 inch backstroke when the ball is frozen on the cushion - that is a long backstroke if you are still occasionally hitting the wall, unless possibly your table is not perfectly centered.
 
15 feet width with a standard length 58 inch cue should allow a 7 inch backstroke when the ball is frozen on the cushion - that is a long backstroke if you are still occasionally hitting the wall, unless possibly your table is not perfectly centered.
I'll have to check, but 7" does not sound long.

That's what she said.
 
USA Pool Size & Playing AreaMinimum Room Dimensions Full Size Cue 58"
9'100" x 50"18' x 13' 10"
8' pro92" x 46"17' 4" x 13' 6"
8'88" x 44"17' x 13' 4"



The 8 ft fits perfectly with no shorty's. The 9 ft requires a shorty if shooting right on the rail, straight across or straight up table...if off the rail then ok, or if shooting at an angle then ok. BUT sometimes you will have your butt against the wall even if not on the rail...like 6" off...so it can stifle your stance somewhat even if you get a full cue movement.

I would like to play some straight pool so think the 8 ball table is the best for that, and 8 ball so that's one thing to consider. Will the 8ft table ruin my 9 ball game on the 9ft?
Go with a 92' GC and make the pockets tight and you will be happy.

Those short cues suck especially length wise. I already miss too many balls short wise with the short cues on my table.
 
My room is 15' wide and I bump the cue on the wall sometimes.

Folks who come over and have long cues bump it more times.

14' for a 4.5x9 is a 'no way'.

I just played a 5 game set of 9 ball, and needed the shorty 0 times, to give you an idea of how little it comes up. The wall is more of a problem for stance as a couple of times I was up against it...couldn't quite get my feet spread fully and down on the shot.
 
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100" x 50
92" x 46"
88" x 44"
There's one person who will say that 2 inches makes a difference.
HINT: It's not a pool player... she said.

.
 
Hi,
Looking for opinions, I have a room that is sort of oddly shaped, at it's narrowest width it is 14' 8.5" and the length is 22', I recently bought a 9' GC1 which I plan to center using the narrowest width 14' 8.5" x 22' which means on one entire long side of the table the distance from the wall to the edge of the table is 56.75" and wall to the nose of the cushion would be 63.25" and on the other long side distance from wall to edge of table is 66.25" for about 7 feet and then goes to the same as the opposite side which is 56.75" and 63.25 to the wall and noise of the cushion respectively. I am attaching a diagram for reference. Also, you can see the windows in the diagram, where the windows are there is another 2 or 3 inches for the back stroke, it's actually 5 inches but blinds have to be installed which will take some space.
Do you all think this will be fine, I am hoping I won't have to use a short cue and there will be enough room for the stance. Does anyone else have a room close to this size?

Thanks in advance for any opinions.
 

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Hi,
Looking for opinions, I have a room that is sort of oddly shaped, at it's narrowest width it is 14' 8.5" and the length is 22', I recently bought a 9' GC1 which I plan to center using the narrowest width 14' 8.5" x 22' which means on one entire long side of the table the distance from the wall to the edge of the table is 56.75" and wall to the nose of the cushion would be 63.25" and on the other long side distance from wall to edge of table is 66.25" for about 7 feet and then goes to the same as the opposite side which is 56.75" and 63.25 to the wall and noise of the cushion respectively. I am attaching a diagram for reference. Also, you can see the windows in the diagram, where the windows are there is another 2 or 3 inches for the back stroke, it's actually 5 inches but blinds have to be installed which will take some space.
Do you all think this will be fine, I am hoping I won't have to use a short cue and there will be enough room for the stance. Does anyone else have a room close to this size?

Thanks in advance for any opinions.
With a Gold Crown (I-III), you also have to factor in the 6.75" you'll be gaining from the nose of the cushion to the outer edge of the rail. So with a 100% perpendicular shot on the rail you will have 63.5", minus 58" (cue length) gives you 5.5" of back swing which should be plenty.
 
Hi,
Looking for opinions, I have a room that is sort of oddly shaped, at it's narrowest width it is 14' 8.5" and the length is 22', I recently bought a 9' GC1 which I plan to center using the narrowest width 14' 8.5" x 22' which means on one entire long side of the table the distance from the wall to the edge of the table is 56.75" and wall to the nose of the cushion would be 63.25" and on the other long side distance from wall to edge of table is 66.25" for about 7 feet and then goes to the same as the opposite side which is 56.75" and 63.25 to the wall and noise of the cushion respectively. I am attaching a diagram for reference. Also, you can see the windows in the diagram, where the windows are there is another 2 or 3 inches for the back stroke, it's actually 5 inches but blinds have to be installed which will take some space.
Do you all think this will be fine, I am hoping I won't have to use a short cue and there will be enough room for the stance. Does anyone else have a room close to this size?

Thanks in advance for any opinions.
Yes the 63.25” to the cushion nose if accurate will be good. I think centered like you have it is the best choice, rather than pushing the table downwards slightly (as viewing the picture).


As far as your back foot, that depends on your height and stance. I’m 6-3 for example, and my back foot is about 1’ behind the end of my cue on many shots. Still if I had this exact room, I’d still go for a 9’.
 
USA Pool Size & Playing AreaMinimum Room Dimensions Full Size Cue 58"
9'100" x 50"18' x 13' 10"
8' pro92" x 46"17' 4" x 13' 6"
8'88" x 44"17' x 13' 4"



The 8 ft fits perfectly with no shorty's. The 9 ft requires a shorty if shooting right on the rail, straight across or straight up table...if off the rail then ok, or if shooting at an angle then ok. BUT sometimes you will have your butt against the wall even if not on the rail...like 6" off...so it can stifle your stance somewhat even if you get a full cue movement.

I would like to play some straight pool so think the 8 ball table is the best for that, and 8 ball so that's one thing to consider. Will the 8ft table ruin my 9 ball game on the 9ft?
Get the Pro 8' table. You'll be fine. It's a great compromise between the regular 8' table and the 9' table. I grew up in the Midwest playing on those tables and had no trouble moving up to a 9' table later on.
 
Get the Pro 8' table. You'll be fine. It's a great compromise between the regular 8' table and the 9' table. I grew up in the Midwest playing on those tables and had no trouble moving up to a 9' table later on.
Thanks, I already have the table. It's in pieces right now because I just had it repainted blue and white. The room is 14' 8.5" x 21 so hopefully won't be to much of an issue
 
Yes the 63.25” to the cushion nose if accurate will be good. I think centered like you have it is the best choice, rather than pushing the table downwards slightly (as viewing the picture).
Interesting you should say that because someone suggested that I do just that but I agree with you and think I'll keep it centered the way it is in the picture. Thanks.
 
Thanks, I already have the table. It's in pieces right now because I just had it repainted blue and white. The room is 14' 8.5" x 21 so hopefully won't be to much of an issue
You've got room for furniture (chairs, bar stools, etc.) at both ends of the table. Not so on the sides. You can put a cue rack or anything else (maybe a shelf) that you can attach to the walls. Make sure the shelf is up higher than the butt end of your cue when you are shooting. Otherwise if could be in the way. Ideally about 4' off the floor.
 
I've got a 9' Gold Crown I in my 18' x 18' garage. A shorty comes into play 10% of the time. I play mostly on 9' tables outside my home so it was a no brainer to live with the slight inconvenience of a shorty.

52269876034_f0f94f42c0_h.jpg
Correct, you need 19' lengthwise to have enough clearance on both ends. Even that can be a little tight if you place any furniture there.
 
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