It doesn't have to be that thin to match low-squirt commercial cues if it doesn't have a ferrule.If you can be comfortable with a thin solid shaft, it can rival many low deflection shafts at less cost.
It can also have a solid hit that may be desirable because it is solid wood.
It can aid aiming with less parallax.
Ya think?
Be well
It can also have a solid hit that may be desirable because it is solid wood.
I think that one should not allow oneself to be convinced by the sharing of the word 'solid', that only solid wood gives a solid hit (whatever that is).
Thank you kindly.
Thank you for giving me a red rep in the banks thread, when I have the time....I'll be sure to return it to you:thumbup:
If you can be comfortable with a thin solid shaft, it can rival many low deflection shafts at less cost.
It can also have a solid hit that may be desirable because it is solid wood.
It can aid aiming with less parallax.
Ya think?
Be well
There are two(2) Hispanic individuals that frequent the hall that I do that use very very thin diameter shafts. They look like pencils. They do not speak much english at all, but I was able to get one in my hands & it was just too small in my fingers.
I'm playing OB Pro shafts with 11.75 mm tips & a European/Conical taper that I like a lot & has a solid hit & is very low squirt... but does have some as they all do... for now.
Then I have that "juiced" sanded down 12 mm tip with a smaller section & a long pro taper Predator 314 CAT shaft that is way more flexible that I will not use on 9' tables because anything but a hit a touch above center will swerve across the line & I can not detect any squirt, even when doing 'tests'.
I know it must have some, but damn if I can see it.
Stay Well, E.
A thin shaft diameter likes an open bridge especially when you swipe the CB and let the shaft fly off of your bridge.
Be well
Yeah, but I did not get to hit any with it.
It may have loaded up & when my shoulder moved & my elbow dropped, I may have snapped it.:wink:
You Stay Well.
It looks like Fast Eddie Felson has a 9mm shaft in your avatar.:smile:
Thank you for giving me a red rep in the banks thread, when I have the time....I'll be sure to return it to you:thumbup:
A thin shaft diameter likes an open bridge especially when you swipe the CB and let the shaft fly off of your bridge.
Be well
Yes, you get it! Finally someone that umderstands! Finally! It's hard having a perfect, unique stroke as such when most don't even understand let alone able to comprehend what exactly is going on. Is that what you do too?
Regarding shaft stiffness, a very flexible shaft can have very
little deflection (like the Predator's), and a very stiff shaft can have
very little deflection (like some billiard cues). But if two cues have the
same taper but are made of different kinds of wood so one is more flexible
than the other, the more flexible one should deflect less, because the
more flexible one will absorb more of the energy from the impact with the
cueball (by bending). Overall, however, the amount of mass in front of a
shaft's flex point seems to be the most important variable in determining
cue ball deflection.
So: my theory, which I've tried to back up with all the evidence I
could find, is that a shaft's ability to absorb energy from the impact
with the cue ball is what determines how "squirty" a particular shaft is.
Amount of mass in front of a shaft's flex point, then tip hardness, and
then overall shaft stiffness are my three big variables for determining a
shaft's tendency to deflect.
http://www.poolchat.net/forums/inde...t-shafts-explain-deflection-once-and-for-all/