A common aggressive one pocket return shot off a scratch

M

maxeypad2007

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Anyone who plays one pocket knows this situation. Modern playing equipment has changed the game quite a bit and as a result players have had to modernize their game a bit.

This is a situation that is very common end game where a player on the last shot had a ball wedged into his hole. The incoming player then scratches and makes the ball or knocks the cueball of the table after pocketing the object ball. Then the pocketed ball and another from that player are spotted with two balls on the spot. The incoming player then has ball in hand in the behind the line.

I'm sure many of you have seen this shot before, but until recently I did not learn how to aim this shot correctly (thanks grady). I've added some notations on how the shot should be setup. Both balls absolutely must be frozen and straight, I recommend checking before you shoot otherwise there is a good chance you could sell out or a double kiss might occur. Use the aim line I've pu in the text hear to draw back to the first diamond on the opposite side inside the kitchen with extreme draw, but not a terribly hard stroke, this will carry a lot of english onto the one. This works best on a fast new cloth. If you keep those factors in mind this shot is VERY strong.

The secret is placing the cue ball four to five inches out from the center and stroking the one with a line to draw it back just past that first diamond with the correct speed. You will also get a nice return off the two as well. Enjoy.

CueTable Help

 
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maxeypad2007 said:
Anyone who plays one pocket knows this situation. Modern playing equipment has changed the game quite a bit and as a result players have had to modernize their game a bit.

This is a situation that is very common end game where a player on the last shot had a ball wedged into his hole. The incoming player then scratches and makes the ball or knocks the cueball of the table after pocketing the object ball. Then the pocketed ball and another from that player are spotted with two balls on the spot. The incoming player then has ball in hand in the behind the line.

I'm sure many of you have seen this shot before, but until recently I did not learn how to aim this shot correctly (thanks grady). I've added some notations on how the shot should be setup. Both balls absolutely must be frozen and straight, I recommend checking before you shoot otherwise there is a good chance you could sell out or a double kiss might occur. Use the aim line I've pu in the text hear to draw back to the first diamond on the opposite side inside the kitchen with extreme draw, but not a terribly hard stroke, this will carry a lot of english onto the one. This works best on a fast new cloth. If you keep those factors in mind this shot is VERY strong.

The secret is placing the cue ball four to five inches out from the center and stroking the one with a line to draw it back just past that first diamond with the correct speed. You will also get a nice return off the two as well. Enjoy.

CueTable Help

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I guess I missed something!!!
 
You will also get a nice return off the two as well.
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I think the 2 ball is an even more likely ball to make - if you hit it right. The idea is the 2 ball banks two rails (the long way) toward your pocket. The problem is that with such a slight cut angle it isn't thrown enough to actually get there. Some left spin on the CB (right if you're going for the other pocket) helps to increase the throw and improve your chances of making at least one of the two balls.

pj
chgo

P.S. Making the 1 ball is an example of Bob Jewett's "10 times fuller" technique. Place the cue ball so it's lined up for a straight shot on the 1 ball aiming for a spot on the foot rail about 1/10 the distance toward the corner pocket from the center diamond (about where you have it in your diagram). With just the right conditions you can make the shot without any draw.
 
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Patrick Johnson said:
I think the 2 ball is an even more likely ball to make - if you hit it right. The idea is the 2 ball banks two rails (the long way) toward your pocket. The problem is that with such a slight cut angle it isn't thrown enough to actually get there. Some left spin on the CB (right if you're going for the other pocket) helps to increase the throw and improve your chances of making at least one of the two balls.

pj
chgo

P.S. Making the 1 ball is an example of Bob Jewett's "10 times fuller" technique. Place the cue ball so it's lined up for a straight shot on the 1 ball aiming for a spot on the foot rail about 1/10 the distance toward the corner pocket from the center diamond (about where you have it in your diagram). With just the right conditions you can make the shot without any draw.
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Er a say what ? 2 Ball ? 1 Ball, Are we playing for fun ?
edited; I just realized your talking about the spot shot not the one pocket shot." Never Mind" Rosanna Rosannadanna.
 
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Patrick Johnson said:
Sorry, I don't get you. Is there an actual question in there somewhere?

pj
chgo
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See edited on previous post of mine.
The thread is about the layout on post #5
 
androd said:
Er a say what ? 2 Ball ? 1 Ball, Are we playing for fun ?
edited; I just realized your talking about the spot shot not the one pocket shot." Never Mind" Rosanna Rosannadanna.
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Well, the spot shot is a one pocket shot... but I see you were talking about the other one pocket shot.

pj
chgo
 
Patrick With just the right conditions you can make the shot without any draw.[/QUOTE said:
I have made the shot without draw and believe the one ball goes (sometimes)because there is a double kiss off the cueball. I think that is why it is so important to place the cueball in a certain place to increase the probability of making the shot. Cueball weight may have an influence on the double kiss.

Anyone else notice this?
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Black-Balled said:
And here is a common/ basic/ usually powerful response to a scratch on your opponent's break (cb ends @ B):

CueTable Help

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I'm not a big 1-pocket player but if I were in this situation, I wouldn't chance clearing the 10-ball with the 11. I'd worry if I got a double-hit, the 10-ball might stay in the neighborhood and given the position of the 15 and 14, I could easily sell-out the rack.

In your layout, I'm shooting the 6-ball. I'll send balls near my pocket and leave the cue-ball infront of his.
 
Jude Rosenstock said:
I'm not a big 1-pocket player but if I were in this situation, I wouldn't chance clearing the 10-ball with the 11. I'd worry if I got a double-hit, the 10-ball might stay in the neighborhood and given the position of the 15 and 14, I could easily sell-out the rack.

In your layout, I'm shooting the 6-ball. I'll send balls near my pocket and leave the cue-ball infront of his.
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Yes, you'd have to have good aim to get the 11 to hit the 10 just right. I like shooting the 10-ball 2 rails into the stack to build some strength on my side.
 
Sorry guys...mine is the right shot- at least compared to your alternatives.

Helfert! Please comment... I go to lunch now!
 
Samiel said:
Yes, you'd have to have good aim to get the 11 to hit the 10 just right. I like shooting the 10-ball 2 rails into the stack to build some strength on my side.
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The 10-ball is only a problem because the 14 and 15 are there. Otherwise, that ball plays well for both pockets so your opponent may end up moving it anyway. I don't see why it's worth moving right now. Now, the 14 and 15 are a different story. Those balls have got to go but now doesn't look like the right time. Of course, I'm not really a 1-hole player but that's just my take on it.
 
Samiel said:
Yes, you'd have to have good aim to get the 11 to hit the 10 just right. I like shooting the 10-ball 2 rails into the stack to build some strength on my side.
Click to expand...

That's a good shot, as long as you squat the CB. Let it creep forward 2 inches, where the 9ball bank is available, and you might be sitting for the rest of the game.

I've lost a lot of games coming up with brilliant shots like this one, only to leave simple one-railer.
 
Samiel said:
Yes, you'd have to have good aim to get the 11 to hit the 10 just right. I like shooting the 10-ball 2 rails into the stack to build some strength on my side.
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they're both good shots, with your shot i try to pull the CB into the same position as in the diagramed shot.
 
Jude Rosenstock said:
I'm not a big 1-pocket player but if I were in this situation, I wouldn't chance clearing the 10-ball with the 11. I'd worry if I got a double-hit, the 10-ball might stay in the neighborhood and given the position of the 15 and 14, I could easily sell-out the rack.

In your layout, I'm shooting the 6-ball. I'll send balls near my pocket and leave the cue-ball infront of his.
Click to expand...

You're right about the 10-11 shot, but leaving the CB in front of his pocket is also too dangerous with three balls to shoot at below the stack (12, 8, 9) and some open long-bank balls too (11, 14, 15). Too much mischief possible...

I like Samiel's shot (2-rail the 10 into the stack) because (despite 420trooper's concern) CB control is pretty simple. All you have to do is hit the 10 full and back the CB up a few inches (to hide the 8) for the only real safety available. Even that leaves a slimly possible bank with the 11. This is a tough situation.

CueTable Help



pj
chgo
 
Patrick Johnson said:
You're right about the 10-11 shot, but leaving the CB in front of his pocket is also too dangerous with three balls to shoot at below the stack (12, 8, 9) and some open long-bank balls too (11, 14, 15). Too much mischief possible...

I like Samiel's shot (2-rail the 10 into the stack) because (despite 420trooper's concern) CB control is pretty simple. All you have to do is hit the 10 full and back the CB up a few inches (to hide the 8) for the only real safety available. Even that leaves a slimly possible bank with the 11. This is a tough situation.

CueTable Help



pj
chgo
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You moved the cueball and I got REALLY confused. Then I realized it's BIH. Yes, this makes perfect sense. I like this shot too, since it's available and all.
 
I don't know about you guys but I feel ripped off by this advice :)

BVal
 
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